Vortec Distributor vent ?

Geo-TH,In

Well-known Member

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Wore out mentioned plugged vent screens?
I Did a little searching and came across this.

I did have green/black rotor issues, moisture, gases, corrosion, all directly related to poor running and the P0300 because the distributor can't vent correctly.

I did notice green oxidation inside the cap.



When I replaced the cap/rotor, I used compressed air and blew out the screen.

Should I have done something else with the vent screen?

The pic above doesn't have a vent hole where mine does.



I solved the A/C issue. I covered the suction pipe with foam insulation. So water can't drip on the distributor cap.
The A/C hose above the cap deposits water on the cap as well on models with the hose routed over the cap.

How do I solve the venting issue??

My GMC is a 2007 4.3l 6 cylinder..
 
You found the screen and cleaned it, that should be all that's necessary.

The dripping AC line could have been a big contributor!
 
Steve
Green means there is moisture under the
Cap, right?

I get failure after driving on a cool damp day. The way I see it, as the warm air in the cap cools, it pulls in the 100% cooler
humid air and shorts out spark.

So what good is having a vent screen?.
It doesn't stop moisture from getting under the cap.

I think there needs to be something to collect the moisture.

Not sure how to prevent moisture, but moisture seems to be the issue causing my problem.
 
A/C can't drip on distributor.

Why does the replacement distributor appear not to have
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Vent?
 
Eurika. While the cap is removed, make sure the vent screens are removed, (factory TSB). (Technical Service Bulletins, or TSBs)This will help ventillate the cap and reduce condensation inside the cap.
 
Spray inside of dis with WD40!

An old Jeepin trick was to tap into the exhaust manifold and run a tiny copper tube into dis cap to bleed exhaust into it.
 

Likely, the replacement distributor was from "The Land of Almost Right", and for better or worse those parts are not always "exact" copies of OEM parts.

IMHO, the purpose of vented distributors and/or caps is to allow for an exchange of air decreasing the buildup of corrosive ozone created by electric arcs between the rotor and terminals in the cap..

BTW, are you going to get someone with a scan tool to check out the timing offset?
 
I think there was a tech. service bulletin for that flat cap dist. that said to pop the screens out and toss them. Genuine GM parts worked better too I think.

I had a fancy 97 GMC Jimmy with that dist. and carried an extra cap, rotor and coil wire around for years but never needed it. I did peek under the cap now and then though.
 
I can't remember what you call it but if you put that new dist. in or turn the old one you're going have too have somebody with a fancy hi priced scanner adjust it.
 
It's a real witch to remove the cap just to spray wd40.

I do that much work, I'm replacing the cap..

When it fails, I have to be towed home....Not going to chance it..
 
IMHO, the purpose of vented distributors and/or caps is to
allow for an exchange of air decreasing the buildup of corrosive
ozone created by electric arcs between the rotor and terminals
in the cap..

I totally agree with you.. The ozone creates green oxidation
particles. Get enough particles, add humidity and there goes the
spark...

I'm going to remove the cap and rotor to pop out the screens..

Also have new plugs and wires in the mail. If this doesn't last
for 2 to 3 years, I may experiment by drilling many 1/64 inch
holes in the cap..
 
Guido,
I was thinking about a dessicated bag.
But there isn't a lot of room for one..
Then I visualize it getting into the rotor..
My plan is to remove the vent screens per factory bulletin.
Install a delco distributor. Carry another distributor and tools in the truck. Install new wires and plugs. Carry a AAA card.
If it makes it more than 3 years I'm a winner...
 
Geo,
Got you!. May be a smaller bag or individual pellets? The Dessicant would need to be glued some how, so it would stay put,

Guido.
 

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