Super C arcing at the pos battery post.

My always dependable Super C is acting up. I had to move it out of the barn last Saturday to make some room in the barn. It started right off and was charging and running just fine. When it came time to put it back in the barn it was after dark and 40 mph winds and getting ready to pour rain. It is converted to 12 volt with a key kill switch and still has the pull rod starter rod. When I turned on the key the little dummy light in the wire to the alt came on as normal. But when I pulled the starter rod sparks shot off the pos post of the battery and the motor made no attempt to start what so ever. The pos cable was a bit loose so I wiggled it around a bit trying to get a better contact. Same result, sparks but no start. After a few attempts I had to abort and push it back into the barn a head of the rain. Is my problem at the sparking connection or should I look at the button on top of the starter? The lights and everything work just fine. Hoping for an easy fix. Thank you, Paul

Clean and tighten the connections

As SV mentioned, you have to do more with that loose connection than just wiggle it around. Take it apart, clean it up good and re-tighten it. That should hopefully solve your problem.

I assume this tractor is negative ground. Take that cable off also and clean it, and put it back on last. If you don't, you could get a lot more sparks while you're cleaning the other one. You don't want that!

This post was edited by Rich'sToys on 03/08/2022 at 06:32 am.

When cleaning the terminal and cable end you might have to use a shaving type cleaning tool. All the arcing that you saw and all you didn't until now might have created pitted surfaces in the lead.

If the terminal connection clamp to the battery post is making sparks, that is easily repaired. if it is the battery post loose into the battery that requires a new battery. To fix: Keep everything shut off. Remove the ground cable from ground as a safety precaution, and put the end where it can't touch anything. Remove the connection that sparked (by loosening the bolt on the clamp, and pulling up while twisting it off back and forth. Visual analysis is next. Look at the clamp. If it is the type that has one bolt that pinches the clamp on the post, and two that clamp the terminal to the wire, the fix is to go to a truck parts house of NAPA and get a replacement that is #1 gauge wire with correct terminals on both ends. Don't try to fix that type, they are a single source of failure.
If the terminal is soldered on and looks undisturbed where the wire attaches to it, the next task is to look at that pinch bolt to see if there is any pinch remaining. If the gap showing between the two halves of the clamp (at the bolt) are together it can't be tightened more. See new cable above.
If there is a gap, you need a terminal cleaning brush. it has two ends one is conical and refinishes the inside by rotating a wire brush to de contaminate the inner surface, the other end has a conical hollow with internal wire brush for the post on the battery. Without this tool there is only make shift use of scraping the inside of the terminal with a knife blade and using a regular wire brush. on the post. Jim

Thank you Jim and others that replied. I will defiantly do as you guys recommend. I will be very pleased if this fixes my problems. It seems I have been a bit overwhelmed as of late by things breaking and not working right. From plumbing to car problems. Will be thrilled if this is what my problem is. Thank you all so much for the fast replies. Everyone on this site are so helpful.

I have a tool like the top one, and I had to use it last year after washing our C! I didn't think I got any water on the battery, but I had a bad connection right afterward. I should never wash it again!

I use emery cloth and a rat tail file

I might add that, if you have a replaceable cable end on the troubling cable (where the cable is clamped into the end, and then end clamped to battery post, these are more apt to be troublesome over time, because of the entirely extra connection created by cable being clamped to the end itself as well. Although, it is cheaper and in some cases more convenient to replace just the end, by removing the old one and cutting off an inch or two of the existing cable, and replacing with a new cable end, this is not as good of a fix as replacing the entire cable with a new one that has a
soldered on cable end (no clamping bolts for the cable to cable end
connection), and the only thing clamped is the end to battery post.

I for one, hate those replaceable ends. I try to avoid those if I can. Perfect example of, cheaper is not better.

The starter on my ATV would growl and the winch switch would kill the engine when engaged. I replaced the battery and both problems went away. When I looked at the old battery, I noticed that the one terminal was black. The clamp was tight, but the contact between the terminal and the clamp was bad. Simple fix.

I've had that happen. Starts OK then a few minutes later sparks at the starter cable. The nut was just a bit loose.

Good evening, Paul Shuler and all: I see a lot of words in this thread, but I think the obvious should be stated: Where you see sparking, you are seeing the definition of a problem. Not somewhere else, but right there where you see the sparks!! Just my humble opinion....

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

I modify those ends a bit by running a 1/4 by inch long bolt up from the bottom of the clamp then lay the strip of metal over the cable then take two 1/2 inch flat washers put on the bolts topped by a 51/6 flat washer then a 1/4 inch washer and finally the nuts take a pair of channel locks squeeze the big washers together while tightening the nuts tighten enough that it bends the flat 1/2 inch washers and it makes a good solid connection . It is definitely better to not have to use them in the first place .

Its never good when a terminal turns black the issue will repeat itself there is no permanent stop for it. Its a product of poor manufacturing I have seen this issue with a new battery off the shelf. I will not install it it gets returned.
I lean more toward a metallurgy effect = poor craftsmanship.

It is a rare event to see this once it amperes it will haunt ya.

Quick Cable compression connections.
They also make them with flux and solder inside the socket ready for your cable and some heat.

Next battery replacement should have studs and will never go back once you go there. No clamps being stretched and poor connections and all the bull that goes with them. We use group 31's with the studs never problems with corrosion and poor connections.