Stuck Farmall B update

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Got the carb cleaned, finally. That zenith about whipped us. Couldn't get it to run without 3/4 + choke. Had it apart and went through it 20 times. Yesterday we soaked it in CLR. Finally working correctly. Pressure washed the tractor,knocked most of the nasty off. Time to prep for painting.
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If it was original paint I would leave it, but it's got a crappy repaint
 
seeing the B, having a BN and reading about the cub, reminds me that some time in the warm weather in Southwestern Ontario Canada, I need to split it, and inspect the pilot bearing and re lube it. Don't look forward to this operation. Will rent an engine hoist to keep the engine part from falling on the ground while apart; probably make a wooden tripod to assist in keeping the engine upright too. Still have the front angle iron cross bar off the cultivators on the front so I can fasten the wooden tripod to that as a steady. Don't have a second tractor with a front end loader.
Any suggestions from any one who has split a tow wheel tricycle Farmall would be appreciated.
Wm.
 
We did a clutch in my narrow front Ford.
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Lots of cribbing blocks. Ratchet straps to the ceiling joist on both sides! Rolled the back away.
 
That is why I like my over head I-Beam and chain hoists on trolleys. That way things move easy and no way for them to fall unless a chain breaks
 
This is how we rigged our KT Twin City to split it. We used the cultivator bolt holes to mount the trailer jacks. We were able to adjust the elevation and roll the back half away. We supported the engine with a floor jack and stabilized with angle irons in the cultivator bolt holes. We had wedges in the front pivot. And yes I dont trust my floor jack to work under
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The above information from all of you is one reason I appreciate this forum. The combined know how and experience is invaluable to all. From splitting narrow front end tractors to working on rear ends that are stuck to types of cleaning and painting.
I would like to put in a very large thank you to all who contribute, keep us laughing and give out cautions and directions.
THANK YOU TO ALL>!
William from near London Ontario Canada
 
Cribbing would be good though I would opt for cris crossing the blocks instead of just stacking them at least till I got to the oil pan. I would also opt for bigger blocks like 8x8's uses fewer blocks and makes it a bit more stable to me. I would also probably with the hood off put a couple tabs on each end of the engine head to hook chains to and suspend it from above if I could even if it was just to stabilize it. Another option would be to bolt 2 plates to the front sides of the engine then weld them th a tube going across under the block behind the fron wheels for stability then just block up the back end. Rear half is easy with a plank and pipe for a roller on a cement floor if dirt put a plank under the pipe and one on top then block to casting and roll. I cheat on all of this and use the telehandler on them and just slide the front away from the rear. With brackets and forks through tubes it can't tip over nor fall back or front. Just block rear half. Works for tractors up to over 10000. Can lift the rear of a 1466 with the tires loaded.
 

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