Neighbor called me tonight and wondered if I would request some information on dissembling Farmall cub brakes. He says he is at a loss as to how the brake bands are accessed/removed. If someone could chime in I would drop by his farm tomorrow and give him some pointers. They must not be like a Farmall H or M. He says he can't get to them but can see the brake band through a couple small holes. Thanks.
- Thread starter andy r
- Start date
Rodney51Cub
Member
- Location
- Southern Illinois
You must remove wheel, fender and final drive assy to get at the brakes. Be very careful on how you jack up the rear on these tractors. It is best to put wedges between the steering housing and axle to keep the front end from tipping, and do one side of the brakes at a time.
grandpa Love
Well-known Member
Rodney nailed it. Fairly simple job, with a helper. 99 percent of the cub brakes that ain't working are just soaked in grease. Seals fail or transmission/rear end are over full. Usually water gets in and pushes the gear oil out. Couple new seals, clean brake bands and good to go. I clean mine with brake cleaner spray, then stick them in a charcoal bbq fire. Let them burn a minute or less, put them out, cool, repeat. Scuff lightly with a brass bristle brush. If y'all are gonna tackle it and need any pointers, give me a holler. [email protected]
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
If he thinks getting to the brake bands on a Cub is impossible, he should look at most any tractor made in the past 30 years.
Oh, and a Cub will flop over on its side with one final drive removed if you don't wedge the front axle. Doesn't matter how you have it jacked up unless you have the entire rear end hanging from a gantry. What size wedges? Whatever fits. I think plastic felling wedges you can get any place that sells chain saw stuff are good. Shim wedges for installing doors and windows work too, just stuff as many in as you can on each side. Or, you can just cut a wedge out of a 2x4.
Oh, and a Cub will flop over on its side with one final drive removed if you don't wedge the front axle. Doesn't matter how you have it jacked up unless you have the entire rear end hanging from a gantry. What size wedges? Whatever fits. I think plastic felling wedges you can get any place that sells chain saw stuff are good. Shim wedges for installing doors and windows work too, just stuff as many in as you can on each side. Or, you can just cut a wedge out of a 2x4.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Flop over with one final removed? The wheel and
the final on the opposite side defy gravity?
the final on the opposite side defy gravity?
Stopped by and helped the neighbor this morning. Yes, it was pretty straight forward to remove the brake lining. The pin that anchors the
brake lining was totally gone. Found the pin laying inside the casting. Someone must have lost the original pin and made one which was too
short and it must have came out allowing the brake lining to move freely. According to the parts diagram it looks like the pin has a
shoulder on it and a spacer slides on the other end to keep the brake lining centered. A new pin lists for $114.02.
brake lining was totally gone. Found the pin laying inside the casting. Someone must have lost the original pin and made one which was too
short and it must have came out allowing the brake lining to move freely. According to the parts diagram it looks like the pin has a
shoulder on it and a spacer slides on the other end to keep the brake lining centered. A new pin lists for $114.02.
Rodney51Cub
Member
- Location
- Southern Illinois
You might try J P tractor salvage in Fredericktown Missouri.
They have a lot of Cub parts (573-783-7055).
One thing: be very careful to get the pins in the bands lined up with the transmission case before reinstalling the final drive. Dad's Cub has a homemade patch on the transmission case from when I tried to pull everything back together with the bolts. . . . That would have been back in the 1980s.
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