Mounting a stabilizer kit Ford 3000, some advice needed

Hi People

I grew tired of everything slapping around on the 3 point, so i decided to buy a stabilizer kit. THis one;


The brackets on/under the axel fits fine, however on the end that i need to drill holes to attach the bars to the lift arms, im a bit confused. If i push the liftarms out all the way towards the wheels, the stabilizer bar all the way in, then mark it, raise the liftarms all the way up, the stabilizer bar wants to move inwards on the liftarms. With other words if they were locked and bolted in, they would be too short when i raise the liftarms.

Is this cuz im measuring where to drill the holes wrong? if so, any tips on how to go about getting it right?

Also when i do the "test" lift i just lift them by hands as far as they will go, which is pretty high, do the 3 point actually go the full range when u put the lever to the top?

Thanks in Advance for any advice and help

The pivot point under the axle MUST align with the pivot point of the lift arm. If the two are not aligned what you describe will happen. You may have them on the wrong side or something.

I don't know what you bought but they look
overly complicated and expensive.
I would send them back and buy these from
YT.
Under axle bracket



Two pins that must go in the correct holes
as danofarming says below.



And the right and left sway brackets.



Look for them in parts/Ford/3000/hitch
parts

danofarming below is telling you right the point has to be perfect or exactly in line with the draft arm center, not even one inch off. I suspect the bracket you have fits but not exactly where it needs to be.

The stabilizer kit that ultra dog pictured is what I have on my 3000 and works fine.

X2

Not familiar with that the kit you have but I did install a set on the 5600 that work well
My Farmtrac that is very similar to a 3000/3600 has a set of chain stabilizers that work really well
I like them on small tractors better than the box link you have

I don't know what you have but that is NOT a stabilizer bracket. Return it and get your money back because you were sent the wrong thing. For a stabilizer kit you will NEVER have to drill any holes. You just take fender bolt nuts off and slip bracket on and replace the nuts unless your fender bolts are too short then you just need to get a half inch longer bolt to hold fenders on. And the bars go on the inside of bracket with the pins in line with the pins on the lift arms. If your fender bolts are not rusted up a half hour you can have complete set on. And the fender bolts to fasten the brackets on are a 5/8inch fine tgread bolt with unless changed a 1 1/16 is nut for the wrench.

You are getting good advice from the others.

The pivot pin where the 20mm is pointing to in your pic -must- be exactly in line with the pins that hold the bottom of
your three point arms. Exactly in line. Both height and fore/aft of those pins must be straight across.

You cannot have the arms moving in or out when you lift and lower them. That will not work! You need those pins
lined up.

Once you get those lined up...... usually you use an existing hole in the arms for the other end of the stabilizer, you
really should it have to drill a new one?

Paul

So you want to end up with this more or less.

Something about your bracket that goes under the fender isnt right, could the bracket be turned around, or needs washers to shim it lower, or something to make it line up with the three point pin across from it?

Paul

I used to use that setup Dog is showing, but since I installed Cat II lift arms and Pat's Quick Hitches I don't have enough length on the implement lift pins on some of my implements, plus a length problem (I could solve by splitting and welding in an extension).

Some pins I can use like the long, after market ones, with nuts on both sides but not all implements have room for that. I like the idea of the tube and sleeve support like i have on my 3910, which looks like the first picture of the poster, without considering the brackets as it tolerates the stresses heavy 3 pt loads impose on the lift arms unlike chains which either brake or break the mounting bolts on the rear of the differentiai casting. .

Now that you have my attention I may scrounge around and see if I can come up with a set for my '65 3000. Any of you guys want to help me find some have at it....well appreciated!

Hi again people

Thanks for all you help and advice.
I read the replies here this morning and i had pretty much given up on this kit but i decided to give it another try.

Sure enough as some of you mentioned, the pivotpoint didnt match that of the liftarms heightwise, the bracket pivot point needed to come down a bit more so i adjusted them down with pieces of flat iron as shims and now it works like its supposed to

Reason i went for this style of stab kit is my old ford 5000 had one, i might be wrong but i think they were actually an option from the ford dealer back in the day and these telescopic bars or whatever to call them works great if you run a grader or snowblade behind you and want to adjust it all the way to one side.

That being said, the ford 5000 stab bars appeared to be much higher quality then the ones i got now, im pretty sure its made of chinesium and quite a bit more sloppy than what i remember from the 5000. The new ones seems thight enough for what they are once they are locked in, and for the price they will do.

texasmark im in Europe so im sure its not much help in me telling you were i bought them since i got them localy, but im pretty sure i seen simular tube kits on some of the big tractor sites in the states as well.

Thanks again Folks, Much appriciated