International 66 Duals

I have an international 666 with a DT 360 that hit 92hp on the dyno. Im looking to figure out what options I have for putting duals on it. It has 18.4x34 on it. Not sure the rim size. Whats the best and easiest to find way of putting duals on?

This post was edited by mrinternational on 02/24/2022 at 05:21 pm.

If that's the same wheel as the 706 and I think it is, DO NOT use band duals. I found out after I broke the hub bolts and one of the hubs. Wish I would have asked around like you are doing.

Yep with clamp on's and the 706 and up with the wheel clamp bolts if you run equal tire pressure in the duals same as the base you will pop them hub bolts like a pimple and I H is real proud of them hub bolts . BUT if you move the base tire so that it is in more to the frame by moving last bead hump and moving the wheel dogs to the inside of the wheel more or less this will take some of the strain off the hub bolts but you still want to run the dual tire pressure down a bit , so if you run 16-18 psi on the base tire then ya want to run the duals between 10 and 14 Psi so when you go over a hump with the duals they mush out and let the base tire carry the weight . . Not to often do we run the duals on my 806 but when my buddy's 1066 munched the rear end on the third round of spring plowing my 806 got tagged with field work while i was tearing into the rear end and chasen parts over two states . When i got the 1066 done and back working we were behind and we put the duals on the 806 to disc with while the 1066 went back to plowing . I had the air pressure set like it should be . The one morning i had a Dr.'s appointment and his KID was discing with it when he saw the one dual mush out and they stopped and went and aired it up to 16 PSI . I had just walked out of the Dr. office when he called sayen that the left wheel hub had broken . Ok YOU run down to the dealer and get four new bolts and i get WHY four only two broke , yea that is what you think but get four if i do not replace the other two they will break in short order . When i got there they were fighting getting the dual off . and he was WHINING about the 94.10 dollars they cost EACH. and why did this happen . I said what did you do air up the duals and he said yea they were low and soft . Told him that is why they were soft as them hub bolts will pop . That is also WHY the 1066 has wedge locks and not bolts as higher Hp will also pop them.So if you want to run even tire pressure then you want axle mount and dished tin wheels . Other wise best stock up on hub bolts.

I have had the hub bolts pop on my 966 , without duals. Seems like a poor system

Hello MrIH welcome to YT! I do not remember the axle
diameter on the 666 but measure that and start web
searching or checking other outlets for some axle
mount hubs and dual rims for it. On this forum you will
get opinions from both sides of the fence. For one I
congratulate you on a great job improving your tractor
..souping it up.. we will call it. On the other hand
having grown up on a farm where we had a 656 gasser
as our main tillage tractor for a time I have a little
experience with one. The 656 is the previous model to
your tractor in the gas model the 56 used a C263 and
in the 66 it was a C291. From the clutch housing back
the rear ends are nearly identical. If you intend to pull
something that needs to put all 92hp to the ground I
hope you are only doing this on occasion. Said another
way, if you plan on using this tractor in the field as a
92hp tractor chances are you will become a little more
..intimately familiar.. with what is inside the rear end
housing of your machine. In the long run you would
have been better served finding a 7 - - series or larger
to place your DT360 in. I see you rattled the Tractor
Vets cage he will be here to tell you some things you
need to know, but often adds in some for added ..fluff..
I will add a link to the YT parent company that runs tractor salvage yards in multiple states. Would be a good place to check with for your duals. I suggest you call.
ASAP tractor parts

I have only had one casting break on my 806 since 1978 when I bought it. That was from plowing and running over piles of manure where they would get stuck and run the load off some so they could drive out. Or big gobs would fall off the side as it was unloading. I ran 15.5 38 duals against 18.4 38's It worked good for weight and as you started to go down a bit they would grab a hold and pull it on through. I had to change the casting as it cracked outward from the axle shaft hole.

Near as I can tell, everyone here missed the mark. A 666 with 18.4x34's has 9-bolt stamped steel wheels, NOT cast.

All the talk about cast wheels is moot because it does not apply to this 666.

Band/snap-on duals are a REALLY bad idea on stamped steel wheels.

Your only choice here is another set of 9-bolt stamped steel wheels and hubs, IF you have enough axle to mount them.

Trying to put 100+ HP through that rear end AND giving it the tire to hook up is a recipe for disaster. Let us know how you make out.

Though speaking of cast hubs on the large frame tractors, I was looking at a 1066 a few years back that had clamp hubs and 34" tires. Pretty sure that wasn't original. Heck the entire rear end may have been off a 966 or 766 for all I know.

Oh and where are all the people who never had any problems with clamp hubs and the people that say that higher HP tractors need the wedgelocks are full of horse manure, lying, delusional?