Can't adjust angle of backblade

I can't adjust angle of back blade by turning the orange part of the 3 point hitch(adjustable upper link).
I took the orange part of the tractor apart & was able to turn clockwise & counterclockwise & oiled threads while I had apart-still can't turn the adjustable upper link. Any ideas?

How are you trying to turn it? If there is a lot of weight on it, (the blade is in the air) it will be difficult to turn.

The top link is supposed to have about a foot long steel rod through the holes to turn it. If you don't have a steel rod to fit in the holes you can use a pipe wrench.

It will be very hard to turn while there is pressure on it. If you can raise or lower the 3-point arms just enough to get some slack in the connection points you'll be able to turn it a turn or two, then repeat procedure till you have it the length you want. Or take the pin out, turn the top link to the length you want, then adjust 3-point arms to put the pin back in.

Move the blue pipe to a hole closer to front if you want blade to go down further than the extended toplink will make it go down.
If more tilt is needed you will have to change to a different blue pipe brace and/or different length toplink.

On second look, maybe the blue pipe with a bolt at each end is only a brace.
Looks like where it might have been adjustable, the hinge point has been welded up??

This post was edited by DoubleO7 on 02/24/2022 at 05:30 pm.

It will be very hard to turn while there is pressure on it. If you can raise or lower the 3-point arms just enough to get some slack in the connection points you'll be able to turn it a turn or two, then repeat procedure till you have it the length you want. Or take the pin out, turn the top link to the length you want, then adjust 3-point arms to put the pin back in. Nice little Massey by the way. Looks like a 135?

Not being a wise guy, but do you have too much pressure on the orange part ( top link) which is making it hard to turn ? Try lowering the blade just enough so that the top link has some play and try to adjust then. Im guessing there is just too much pressure on the top link.

If you are trying to shorten the top link, you may already be bottomed out on the front set of threads. Turnbuckles like that have opposite hand threads on each end. The ends need to be timed with each other to get the widest possible range of travel.

Try removing the top link and turning both ends of the link into the center section to their shortest possible length ( both ends bottomed out against the center section). Then install the top link and turn the center only to extend both ends evenly.

Looks like a fairly heavy blade. Heavy enough that it'll likely have to much force on the top link to adjust the top link while being hooked up to blade.
Disconnect top link, adjust it to the length you want (guess), and hook it back up to the blade already adjusted. Note, (you will need to use the 3 point lever on tractor to raise/lower the blade to get the top link hooked back up). If pre-adjusted top link is to long to hook up, raise the three point a little. If top link is to short, lower the three point a little.
To take some of the trial and error of the guessing game out if it, with top link removed, adjust blade to the angle you want with three point lever, and adjust top link to that length as close as you can get, then hook it back up as previously mentioned.
The top link has two threaded pieces. One on each end. Note, that the ends are designed to be adjusted simultaneously by turning the middle when hooked up. So when adjusting it while unhooked, make sure your adjusting it the same amount on both ends (count turns). These can get out of sink by only adjusting one end. If out if sink, your adjusting limitations will be all messed up. If it is all messed up already, you can turn both ends all the way in, and then back out seperately by same number of turns.

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Raise (or lower) the three-point until the pins in the ends of the toplink are loose. Then you'll be able to turn the toplink. Until there's no slack left, of course, and you have to adjust the link a bit more.

Insert a large line-up punch in the hole in the toplink body to get a bit more leverage.

There is a hole in the middle of the orange shaft to put a long pin through and use the pin leverage to turn the turnbuckles in or out.

Check that the lower rectangular unpainted bar in the picture does not attach to the blue 3pt locking it in one place. The pic does not show if that lower bar terminates or is connected to the blue 3pt hitch(would be rare, but possible).

You can't turn it by hand once it is hooked up. Get a two or three foot pipe wrench and put on it.

Like someone else said, it's as short as it can get on the end toward the tractor.

They make shorter top links.

Just go to your local Tractor Supply and look on the rack of hitch parts.

You could get a shorter top link, and from the looks of it you may be able to replace the blue tube with an additional adjustable link as well.

This is so simple it's scary. Just drill another hole on the top end of the blue pipe. Actually drill 2-3 of them at 2 inch 4 inch and 6 inch 8 inch.

> This is so simple it's scary. Just drill another hole on the top end of the blue pipe. Actually drill 2-3 of them at 2 inch 4 inch and 6 inch 8 inch.

Hmm. That blade appears to be welded solid, even though there are adjustment holes at the back end of the brace.

You can sometimes turn it by hand when it is hooked up. You can not usually turn it if there is up or down force on it.

Your toplink looks to be fully in at the tractor end, but has two inches left at the implement end, so you won't be able to shorten it any further. Take the toplink off &amp; equalise both ends, refit it &amp; then you should be fine to do what you want.