Love my Super C

gab

Well-known Member
but sure, hate replacing the battery, heck of it is that I had the battery out a couple of months ago and noticed on the sticker that it was twelve years old. Fluid and plates looked like new and it started so thought I'd chance it, wrong.

All those rods on the right side have to come off or at least off one end and repositioned and the hyd. hoses are in the way.
cvphoto115923.jpg


cvphoto115924.jpg


cvphoto115925.jpg


cvphoto115926.jpg


cvphoto115927.jpg
 
Battery box locations on A, Supper A, B, C & Super C were not one of IHC engineering department's better ideas. Unfortunately I don't have a better place in mind, either.
 
Ive seen many of this style with the battery box no longer there. Sure, they rot out, but I'm guessing back in the day the first time a farmer had to change the battery, they threw the box away.
 
I don't imagine style had anything to do with it but if it did you should be talking to Raymond Loewy
Below from FarmCollector on the internet.

Loewys main claim to fame among rusty iron lovers, however, is the work he did for International Harvester Co. In the mid-1930s, tractor builders were beginning to see the advantages of making their products more attractive by adding streamlined sheet metal. Oliver led the way with the streamlined row crop 70 in 1936. IHC management invited Loewy to design a new line of Farmall tractors then being developed by the company. He spent a couple of years perfecting the design and on Aug. 9, 1939, at a big Farmall Day celebration in Rock Island, Ill., the all-new Farmall H and M models were introduced to the public. Loewys classic styling of the new Farmalls helped make IHC a leader in row crop tractor sales until the 1950s.
 
If the batteries last 12 years it's not a problem very often! When we bought our C the battery box was rusty around the top so I cut it off, makes it easier to slide it out with the battery in it.
 
I once knew a mechanic who described engineers as the ones that put things where you can't get to them to fix them.
 
Dont go blaming IH for this one, my friends, that is the wrong box for that tractor. The correct box is 5 pieces that fits together in a tongue-and-groove arrangement; the two sides are screwed horizontally to the clutch housing. Need to remove 2 bolts and one panel to remove battery. None of those rods or hoses would need to be disturbed. Those boxes never gave trouble unless the owner was a slob and didnt keep them clean and greased.
 
I am no authority on it but that's the same box on my C too that he has in the picture minus the top. From what I have seen they have all been like that, Unless they threw the box out and used a bonggie cord as someone already mentioned. I have seen the same box sitting on the display shelve at Steiner's which I always assumed it was for a C and maybe a couple of other models.
 
I never heard of a five piece box. I just googled super c batt. box and got about two dozen that look like mine. I did find a three piece in the Pilot Knob book.
 
As they fail on my Farmall's I build a battery box that mounts to the lower left front side. Mine are 12V My main reasoning behind that was so I could fit the most common sizes in the box and save some $$$...

I don't use them enoufh to justify putting new battery's in them and always have a few used around I could make work.
 
Doesn't your light/gauge stand move around? The top rear of the batt. box is the brace for that with two bolts.
 
Im sure you did see that at Steiners . A one size fits all China box. The original would be a nightmare to reproduce... if they did I doubt you could buy it for $100. The original has the bolts down under the battery... you cant see them unless you bend over and look. And if you want to be Uber correct, the ground cable is grounded inside the box with the cover on . Only the hot cable exits the box. Not chiseling on this guys beautiful tractor , just saying. Depending on how handy the owner is, that box could be modified so the right side comes off, but I dont know if the battery would fit under the control rods with those lugs sticking out.
 
My dad bought a new 53 Super C with a loader, 2btm fast hitch plow, 2pt cycle mower, planter and cultivator and a few years latter a 2pt rear blade. The tractor wore out everything except the plow but including a second loader.
 
I know where the ground cable goes, and I think mine is in a much better Environment. Also, I'm soon to be 73 years old, that new battery might outlive me and somebody else can deal with it.
 
That is one nice looking Super C! Does the lever down by the clutch pedal run the shutters in front of the radiator? And could you post another photo of the bracket that holds front of the fuel tank to the back of the head. I am trying to fix one up and someone has mixed up the sheet metal. And drilled new holes. My battery box is gone as well. I was thinking about just making a new box for under the seat to put the battery in. Then make a tool box with a mesh bottom to put in place of the old battery box. I know that would no longer be OEM but I just want to rake hay.
 
Yes, the lever is for the shutters. When I bought the tractor the notched quadrant was there with no lever, shutters or linkage. I bought the shutters on e bay and made the lever and linkage, don't have any idea what the lever should look like or the bends in the linkage, never seen one before but it works. I don't think a battery is going to fit in the space under the seat.

I'll try to remember to take a pict. of the fuel tank mounts tomorrow.
 
to chime in on the subject of bat., boxes
When I re assembled our BN that dad obtained when he worked for the IHC dealer in our home town Just east of Sarnia Ont.; It had come over in a shipment and was sent as a test unit with hydraulics; [the original box was with it when we started to work on it 7 years ago] I took the measurements and made an aluminum mock up. Took it to a fabricator in the area. From that he built me a left side opening box at least two inches longer and an inch higher but the same width, yet fit in under the tank behind the hydraulic reservoir and cylinder box between it and the panel. Used the original top and tie down bolt holes.
When I need to remove the battery at any time all I need to undo is; undo the left hydraulic control rod and the choke rod >> even redesigned the choke rod with a long nut threaded joint [ turned the nut to a long cylinder shape] just level with the front of the battery box.
This modifications has been a grand help. Yes it cost me $100.00 Canadian but unless one looked extremely closely one would never know the difference between original and modification.
Wm.
 
boy can i relate. i have a ford 4000 diesel with loader and hoe. the loader frame is exactly in the line of the battery box access. for 40 years i've had to remove the fuel tank et al to access the battery .... seems like every 5 years or so. i've left the outer sheet metal off for decades since i don't use it anywhere but here and not so often now. anyway, i finally tried an optima battery. it slips between the frame and lines and wires quite easily. it's been in for a couple of years and does fine so far. price was about the same as the big originals.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top