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Cold Weather Gas Tractor Choke

B

Bill VA

Well-known Member
My first car was a 1970 International Scout 800A, 196cu in 4 cylinder gas engine. It had a choke, I never used it - engine fired right off every time
regardless of the cold.

Im finding my new to us Farmall 350 seems to fire off with minimal, if any choke and when I use it, Im not sure it was needed - still learning this gas
tractor.

What about your gas tractors, regardless of brand, when it gets cold, do you need to choke it to start?

Just curious.

Thanks!
Bill
 
Not a tractor but an industrial version of the engine was used in some farm equipment like swathers, I am talking about a Chrysler slant six. Try to start one of those without a choke and you will know why chokes were invented.
 
My 300 Farmall is similar. Full choke till it fires which is almost immediately. Then right to half choke for about 30 seconds then right to no choke. It is fussy however and does not like to start if the throttle is not at idle position.
 
I have a 1955 Ford 860 that I rebuilt the engine in 2013. It starts right up in the bitter Michigan winter cold without having to choke it. I am always amazed at how fast it starts. It is still running the Blue Streak points I installed in 2013, and was converted to 12V in 2013 with the engine rebuild.
 
All three of my H's seem to be about the same. No choke until they fire, and then choke just enough to keep them running.
 
Both of my winter runners need 1/2 choke to start when cold. As they warm up, reduce choke. Both seem to run better with choke partially on untill they reach normal operating temperature. Then all the way off.
I think alot of variables to choke use depends on whether the carb is set lean or rich. I'd be willing to bet that most engines that don't require choking when cold, have thier carbs set a touch rich. Those that require full choke, carbs are set to lean. Perhaps not, but it would for sure have to be atleast part of the factor if not.
 
I would agree also. The main fuel adjustment screw on my 300 is set at full. Idle mixture may be a tad rich also but it runs good.
 
You are correct sir. We had 12 of them on green pea combines, and one on a Hesston 620 swather. They needed choke on a summer morning, until they were warmed up.
 
The Scout had a down draft with an accelerator pump. The choke would not be necessary to start it but would help get it through the cold engine stumbles.

But a properly tuned updraft will need a bit of choke to get it running. If it starts without choke, good chance there is a bit of flooding going on.

It's a learning curve, some need more choke than others, some like open throttle, some like closed.
 
we still have a JD 800 windrower with that slant 6.. 95*F in august And if its been off for more then 5 min pull the choke up or it will run the battery dead before it will be running

My dad hates my ford 2000 3cyl, he can never get it it start. its simple choke clear out throttle closed (idle) and crank, it will fire then leave everything alone don't be in a hurry and let it warm up.. he tries starting it with the throttle cracked..
 
On Harmless Farmer channel this morning he was needing a tractor to run auger. It was something like 0 degrees there. He went to start a 5000 series JD, would say less than 5 yrs old. It is a diesel. Would not start. Then he went to a Oliver 66 in back of shed. Those are 65 yrs old, probably gas engine. It started right up. He did not say but probably took a little choke at that temperature. He ran the loading auger with the Oliver. Maybe it pays to have a back up tractor for cold days.
 
My 300u has always needed full choke when cold, and would sputter along at 1/2 choke for a few minutes before it cleared up. I have been starting this tractor in cold weather since I was 9, and am 65 now. We have never turned the gas off, and never had any problem with it starting. It always makes about 1 or 2 revolutions and is running, but you have to know when and how to choke it. 7700+hrs and counting, although more slowly these yrs. Mark.
 
All of my gas tractors take choke to start. the only gas tractor I use in the winter is my Farmall C. It takes full choke wide open throttle to start and then feather the choke until it warms up some. When I was using one of my Oliver tractors they all took about half choke and half throttle.
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:04 01/29/22) Both of my winter runners need 1/2 choke to start when cold. As they warm up, reduce choke. Both seem to run better with choke partially on untill they reach normal operating temperature. Then all the way off.
I think alot of variables to choke use depends on whether the carb is set lean or rich. [b:87b76a1ec4]I'd be willing to bet that most engines that don't require choking when cold, have thier carbs set a touch rich. Those that require full choke, carbs are set to lean. Perhaps not, but it would for sure have to be atleast part of the factor if not.[/b:87b76a1ec4]
Click to expand...


I'd put money on that as well.

Also, location is important. As in, how cold is what you call cold in your location?

The OP, Bill VA, doesn't say where he lives. If I had to guess, I would say Virginia. VA is an abbreviation for Virginia I think?

How cold does it get in Virginia?







This post was edited by Carlmac 369 on 01/29/2022 at 11:40 am.
 
My case DC needs full choke to start always. Then if it's cold some choke til it warms up. Always starts even at-25 this year.
 
I agree with the quote down below, or above on modern! It depends how the carburetor is adjusted, if it starts without choking it's probably set too rich, if you have to keep choking it after it's running it's too lean. Too many people are afraid to adjust carburetors, they're adjustable for a reason!
 
(quoted from post at 14:44:53 01/29/22) My Oliver 66 will start right up in any weather,give it about 1/2 choke and it fires before it makes 1 turn.
Click to expand...

On both of my Fords, NAA and 860, I start out with no choke. Then if they don't fire the first couple of revelations, I slowly pull the choke out till they fire. I find the happy spot of choke and hold it there, then slowly let it in.
Set the RPMs at 800 before I turn them off and leave the throttle alone, I like to let them warm up at around 800 RPM.
 
My SH and SM both start fine in warm weather (60+ deg) with no choke. In colder weather they need full choke the first revolution or two, then full open the instant they fire. Though sometimes once running both will need several choke blips to keep 'em running until they settle and run smooth. A friend's JD 3020G also starts pretty much the same.

My Minnie-Mo UTU needs full choke until it fires. Then gradually (about 30 seconds of so...) ease the choke full open.
 
(quoted from post at 18:31:01 01/29/22)

[b:116c079bd0]My Minnie-Mo UTU needs full choke until it fires. Then gradually (about 30 seconds of so...) ease the choke full open[/b:116c079bd0].
Click to expand...


That carburetor is correctly adjusted for cold weather in my distant opinion.






This post was edited by Carlmac 369 on 01/29/2022 at 01:46 pm.
 
On all of my gas tractors,No two start the same.most no choke on my old CH case it's always choke for one crank and next it will start.
 
It's been as low as 14 here in Central Virginia lately in the early mornings, usually in the mid 20's. Warms up in the daytime to 30's and 40's
 
2 pulls on my CC with choke on...fires on the third.
cvphoto115830.jpg
 
What he said except remember that an oil bath air filter can,,,,, act as a choke to help an updraft start.....especially when the oil in the filter is very cold.
 
If the weather is cold, around 10-15F, I choke my 1944 JD B full, crank it about three turns. The go start the chain saws, load my trailer, and take the choke off. A couple more turns and we're running. Reason is gas won't ignite when it's liquid. Choking puts raw gas in the cylinders, waiting a while lets it evaporate and ignite easily. Just my opinion.
 
My 464 International it can be 90 degrees outside you have to choke it to get it started. It even has an electronic ignition. Dave F.
 


You need to adjust the carb as the weather changes IMO. Richen the low speed side in the winter, lean it out in summer. A carb set to summer specs isn't going to start great in -20 weather! That being said, some engines are just easy starters in cold weather, others are bears.
 
The tractor was was shut off buy closing the valve at the sediment bowl and running till it runs out of gas . Shut off battery ignition.

Farmall SC with Carter , i dont use the choke, I let it start ,if it stubbles pull choke out halfway and listening to it simmer down by pushing choke in slowly.
The zenith it use starter to rotate engine crankshaft one turn with choke fully closed, and then open the choke before second rotation of crankshaft.
I find that these Farmalls will flood easy with full choke .
Find what works with your tractor and dont deviate.
 
35 yrs ago i had a 3010 J Deere that would fire up on full choke , whether it was 9 below zero or 90 degrees , or had been running hot plowing ,It needed choke to start ,And it only cranked a couple cranks to start ,, again regardless of conditions ,That 3010 required choke to shift the gears ! ,,. It took a full round around the field before it did not need choke whenever the governor would kick in ,.. I would reverse the manifold blocks from summer to winter and that helped it get to warm up better ,,. but that was the cold naturest tractor i ever saw . We did grind the valves and put on new seals and guides and that helped it to stop stumbling so much on the 1st round ,, The 3010 was a nice runner everything worked good , handlednice too,,, But . It took 70 gallons of gasoline to plow a 40 acre field ,..that was a bit too much for me at $1 per gallon . When a 830 Case Diesel could plow the same field on one tank of Diesel fuel .
 
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