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Radiator repair

grandpa Love

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Long, long story, cocky teenage and a boom pole towing one of my keeper Fords. Anyway. 3 of the tubes running up and down are damaged. I trimmed it out carefully and cut out the bad with sharp dykes. Poured water in and it's only those 3 leaking. Now I would like to try my had at soldering. Tips. Tricks. Advice. This is the group to tell it like it is. I do have another radiator if this goes terrible wrong. How do I seal the upper side? Solder doesn't run up hill?!
cvphoto114596.jpg
 

Solid or acid core solder, not electrical rosin core solder. Tinning fluid as well. Something for a small wire brush that fits between the tubes to clean with helps, it can be a small round one. Use a little heat and the tinning fluid while cleaning. I use a very small tip on a regular torch or plumber's torch for better control than a handheld propane torch. Clean well, get the right heat, and solder will hang to the uphill side. Getting it clean will be the hardest part. I'm sure others will be along with their thoughts.
 


It sounds like you are hoping to get it done without removing it. I don't see a strong liklihood of getting it adequately cleaned in place.
 
These are good, I will add that taking a small square of copper sheet (old radiator tank) cleaned to shiny on both sides then
bent into a U to fit snugly over the pinched upper tube, then tinned (away from the application) then tinning the cleaned
outside of the pinched hanging tubes in preparation, then heating and pushing the U up into place will make it easier to
assure it is closed. using an electric iron of 100 to 250 watts is much better than any flame. A flame with a soldering copper
attachment is also OK. Jim
 
Ooh yes solder runs uphill. Perfect example is soldering copper water pipes. I would just solder the ends of them tubes close after cutting them out and all is good.
 
Stay-Clean Paste Flux
Description: General Purpose Solder Paste Flux

Designed primarily for copper to copper and copper to brass connections the paste form is ideal for soldering tube joints. Not recommended for electrical or electronic applications due to the potential corrosive residue of the flux. Stay Clean Paste flux works well with most leaded and lead-free solder compositions. Flux residue should be removed after soldering.

Typical Application: Superior flux for most metals, copper, brass, bronze, steel, galvanized, Monel. Not recommended for aluminum, magnesium, or titanium. Not recommended for electrical or electronic applications.
 

Ask him, his answer will be the one that counts, not mine or anyone else's answer you get here about what he can or can't do.
 
Kevin I've repaired a few like that over the years but like showcrop stated it's going to be hard to do unless you remove it from the tractor. You have got to be able to clean it really well or it's not going to work. I use sliver solder and a very small brazing tip on my torch. You might want to just go ahead and install your spare and then see if you can repair that one
 
Hear is what you can do. Heat the tube where it goes into the tank, Just enough to loosen the solder on that tube. With a needle nose plies grab the tube close to the tank, and twist if the solder is loose the tube will twist out from the tank. Where it came out will be good solder, just heat enough to melt the solder, and dip your acid core solder on the opening. I use straight solder, and acid that works better for me. The top will be a little tricky to solder going up hill just a little heat, and touch the solder on the opening, it should already be tinned. Or remove the tube, wire brush the opening, fill it with JB weld. I have used JB on non pressure radiators with good success. Stan
 
I'm usually always different. I have patched 3 or 4 radiators in my lifetime. JB Weld is what I used and it worked every time. That tip for the torch to do that job is tiny. You will need a spray bottle of water to cool nearby joints also. Use the 24 hour JB Weld. Not the quick curing. Steve in Bnner,Ms.
 
Our local radiator shop uses a low volume/low pressure sand blaster to clean before soldering. It's fast and easy. I always did it the hard way using a typewriter brush.
 
Drain it pinch the tubes off tight I would fold them over then pour a whole box of pepper in fill and run it may leak a bit at first but will seal up and be fine. Will last for a long time like years. I use it in any rad with a pinhole type leak like after the tubes are folded over.
 
The cleaner you can get the radiator tubes, the better the solder will seal the tubes. Get the radiator tubes as clean and shiny as you can. Then use flux. Do not heat the solder. Heat the tubes until the solder will melt/flow when touching the tubes. I almost always bend an angle on my solder about 3 from the end. That will help you get the solder in the tight place. Especially in tight places like radiators.
 
Many years ago, my car radiator got stoned. A small stone made a pin hole.
To get home I used bubble gum and removed the radiator cap.
It worked. I took my radiator to a radiator shop.
 
SV that looks like a charge air cooler you have there. Similar but different application. If it is indeed a charge air cooler they have a limited sieve leak amount anyway.
 
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