John Deere 7020 questions

Posted in the John Deere forum as well.
I recently bought a 7020 for the farm. I'm in the process of getting it in shape to hopefully use this coming spring and fall and have a few questions about it and am hoping someone with experience with these can help me out. First thing is on the throttle lever when you push it all the way to being straight up and down with the steering column without pulling out on the black knob it shuts off the tractor is this how it's supposed to be? On my 4020 that's where idle is and you have to pull out the knob and up to shut it off. Second the tractor will run for about 5 minutes then slowly loose rpms and shut down I know about checking the check ball and return line on the injection pump just wondering if there is anything else it could be before pulling the pump to have it rebuilt? The third thing is when starting it sometimes its starts off the key switch and sometimes you have nothing no grunt or anything when you hit the key and have to jump across the starter terminals to fire it up was wondering if it's the key switch, a relay, or wiring issue? Once it's started if it dies usually you can use the key to restart.
The 4th thing is when you press the clutch in after about 20 seconds you no longer have steering, thinking a valve or something is bypassing but not certain.
The final thing is the pto constantly runs haven't checked to see if the cable is actually acuating the lever for it or not but how much work could be involved if it's something internal.

Sorry for the long post but hoping to disc in the spring with it and disc, chisel and run a small grain cart in the fall.thanks in advance for any help
Smalltimer

My 3020 shuts off without pulling the knob out . When you depress the clutch it stops the transmission pump so no oil is being supplied to the main pump if its like the row crop tractors . Could be a bad key switch could be bad or loose dirty connections on the switch or at the starter or relay time to get out the volt ohm meter and get testing .

I agree with SV--The early 7020 had the same engine as a 4620 and the later ones had the 4630 engine--so The knob shut-off is most likely the linkage on the side of the pump--have someone run the throttle while you watch the lever on the side of the pump. You might have to adjust the linkage. Like SV said--the charge pump feeds your main pump and when you push in the clutch it stops--I would start by changing the hydraulic oil filter first and go from there.---Get your muti-meter out and stat checking voltage while someone runs the key for you starter trouble--you should be able to narrow it down pretty fast.---I would check the PTO cable -If the previous owner never used it the cable most likely froze--Penetrating oil?--Good luck--My first 4-wheel drive was a 7020--remember--NO live PTO--Good Luck---TEE

Had a Deere 3200 6-18's plow--pulled it good--I wished I would have kept the 7020--Mine was a early one but someone put the 4630 engine in it.

Thanks SV and big tee! Given me a good place to start. It s an early one haven't ran serial number but guy I bought from said it was the 30th one made, came from Colorado originally and I'm in Southern Indiana. If I can figure out how to post pics I'll get some up sometime. Next thing after after this is fixed is figuring out duals, either stay with band/clamp ons that came with or get hubs and do axle mounts. If I stay with clamp ons how many j bolts should I use?

Would you mind telling me how big of implements you used with yours? I've got an 18 ft disc and 20 ft packer but will be shopping for a pull type moldboard plow (no 3pt on my 7020), a chisel plow or disc chisel, and a cultimulcher.
Thanks

No 3-point on the one we had also-- 6 bottom pull-type plow--21 ft. soil finisher--25 ft. BWF Deere disc--9 shank Glencoe soil saver--750 bu. Triggs wagon---Tee

No starter engagement when turning gn switch to start position could caused by neutral start switch ball or shift linkage getting worn so neutral start switch doesn't make good electrical continuity. Remove switch then remove a sealing washer or 2 then reinstall switch then try starting engine.

No steering after clutch is depressed sounds as if there's a high pressure internal hyd leak. I suggest to check temperature of hyd control valves with a laser thermometer. Highest hyd component temperature indicates component with internal hyd leak.

Thanks, wouldn't have thought about using
the temp gun.

But once you charge the main pump shouldn't it stay charged even with the clutch pushed in??

Or neutral start switch washers

Yes once hyd stand-by pressure is reached stand-by pressure should remain constant if all hyd controls are in neutral & ""no internal leaks"" are present.