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tin roof condensation

3

37 chief

Well-known Member
My shop has a tin roof. during cold weather condensation collects and drips, making a wet mess. How can I stop this. One side is tin, which probably
doesn't help. Stan
 
BIL had 2 inches of closed Cell foam sprayed on his roof.

I was planning to do the same with my new pole barn.
It was winter and too cold for foaming.

I really think the key is having 1 ft vented eves. Vented ride. 8 mill plastic under floor
cvphoto111297.jpg

Went through 2 winters. Absolutely zero condensation when after parking tractor covered with snow after snow plowing.
Ventilation and stopping moisture from ground.
Nothing under my roof metal.
 
If you are putting in a concrete floor must have builders plastic under the slab. Stops the moisture coming up from the ground.
 
The new building I had put up a year ago has a combination of ventilation and special roofing steel to eliminate the drip. The roofing steel comes with a thin layer of felt blown on the underside. It's purpose is to soak up the condensation so it does not drip. The condensation that is trapped in the felt is supposed to evaporate after the roof warms up. The building contractor recommended having an overhang with vented soffits on the building to keep air moving in the roof area to dry the felt. I agreed to a 24" overhang all the way around the building with a fully vented soffit and a six inch screened in gap on the top of the walls to keep birds out of the soffit. So far I am very happy with it, the building stays dry to the point of being dusty in any weather or season and I haven't seen one drip on any of the machinery inside the shed. The steel machine shed we have across the road rains on everything inside when the conditions are right and it never does get completely dry. Both buildings are dirt floor and sit on an elevated pad.
 
Kind of late for you, but they make a fabric kind of like house wrap, called condensation stop that you put over the purloins before you put the steel on. I put a heavy felt like fabric on ours, it was scrap from the paper mill. A fabric is used to carry the paper through the machine until it's dry enough to support itself. It gets change a couple of times a year and given away, worked good for me, we don't have any condensation. Spray on insulation would be the solution for you.
 
Russ, did you work for Hoerner-Waldorf Corporation in St Paul,i did, It was a good experience but glad them days are over, That's maybe why i cant hear, either that, or the 806 and them stupid cabs they had!
I worked in the 3 @ 4,line on the south side of the street!
 
When I built my shop back in 2005 I had rolled insulation put on the purlins prior to the sheel sheets. Blown in insulation probably would do for you since your building is already built.
 
Not going to help on yours but in new buildings here we use a product called bubble wrap, about a 1/4 inch thick with foil on one side. Works perfect.
 
I have 4 mil plastic under all my slab equipped buildings as I was told what you said. However, on days when the temp is in a transition zone and humidity is 100% everything that is cooler than the current temperature is dripping, including slabs, tractors, tires, tools, you name it..... if it is open to outside ambient air, everything! On my shop I keep the big doors closed on such days and it helps a lot. If I open them you can see the moisture starting to form.

Case in point, on my tractors with fluid filled rears, I can easily see the fill level as the area above the fill warms faster than the filled part and dries out sooner.
 
Condensation is from the difference in temperature between the two sides of the outside layer over the insulation. Increasing insulation reduces that difference by reducing the temperature of outer part of the insulation and keeping the heat away from the tin or whatever is in the outside. So the best way to reduce condensation is adding insulation. In dry regions, increasing air exchange between inside and outside air reduces interior air moisture but heat exchangers heat incoming air with outgoing air, reducing the moisture added to the air from bathrooms and kitchens. In Montana we consider 6 of insulation the bare minimum in a roof that has insulated rafters, but ten inches would be the least I would use to prevent condensation.
 
I worked at the mill in Sartell MN, it was St Regis, Champion, IP, and Verso. 2 years after I retired it crashed and burned, killed one employee, it was not repaired, cut up for scrap and gone, 500 jobs. We made mostly magazine and advertising paper, most of that market is gone too.
Hoerner Waldorf is still running, some of my co-workers ended up there, I think one is the manager.
 
Did you know John. Grew up helping his uncle on the farm and milked his cows for about a year before John took it over.
 
I had an uninsulated bare tin area in my shop, about 10 X 26, that was always dripping on everything. I had about 30 sheets of 3/4 Styrofoam given to me, so I carefully cut it to fit between the roof purlins and wedged it into place. No more drips, and my shop stove now only needs a minimum fire to heat the area. It was a lot of hassle fitting the foam in between the purlins, but the price was right. The sheets that were left over went into the walls where I hadn't completed the inside sheeting, and some of it went into a smokehouse that I hope to complete someday. I've almost used all of the Styrofoam. With a little fire in the stove, I can get it up to 70 degrees in the 26 X 26 shop area, and no more sweat drips from the roofing tin.

In your case, without free material, I would agree with others on the idea of spray foam.
 
With steel sheds with the one side open there is not dripping either and no fooling around with any other drip issues. Of course birds do get in some.
 
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