grandpa Love
Well-known Member
This is what the top looks like..... Will figure out how to take it apart one afternoon.
- Thread starter grandpa Love
- Start date
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
That is for sure a single acting cylinder.
The condition of the bore is more important than the rod. If it's rust pitted it's gone. Surface rust can be polished out with a cylinder hone and an extension on the drill.
The rod is rough, but a good polishing will help bring it around. The seal is only to keep water and dirt out.
If you replace the cylinders, measure and compare carefully. Any change will come back to haunt you!
The condition of the bore is more important than the rod. If it's rust pitted it's gone. Surface rust can be polished out with a cylinder hone and an extension on the drill.
The rod is rough, but a good polishing will help bring it around. The seal is only to keep water and dirt out.
If you replace the cylinders, measure and compare carefully. Any change will come back to haunt you!
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Even though it is a single acting cylinder with all that rust I would replace them or the dirt/water seal will not last long so then the seal that you need to have good will also go bad fast
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
Grandpa, I just want to through one more possibility into the mix. Steve has indicated that the ram surface condition may not be as important as the bore condition. That depends on the design of the cylinder. The cylinders may not have a packing on the ends of the rams. They may rely solely on the seal system at the end of the barrel. In the link is an example of such a cylinder. The cylinders on the Horndraulic trip loader on my Farmall M are made this way and I think many older single acting long ram hydraulic loader cylinders were designed this way. The cylinders on my loader just have a guide/stop nut of sorts that threads into an internal thread on the end of the ram inside the barrel. It just centers that end of the ram in the barrel and has flat spots that let oil pass by it freely. On my cylinders their is about an 1/8 to a 3/16 inch of space between the ram and the ID of the barrel. They have a different assembly method then yours, mine have a sealing and guide assembly that threads onto the barrel which has male pipe threads on the end.
Example
Example
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
I agree with used red MN. That looks like a single acting, displacement type ram. Oil fills the entire barrel except for the space occupied by the ram. Adding oil under pressure pushes the ram out. When the pressure is released (lowering), the ram moves back into the barrel displacing oil. There won't be a piston with packing on it, at most a guide to keep it centered in the barrel bore. With this type ram the bore of the barrel is not critical as it is for one that has a piston with packings that have to seal in the barrel bore, like a double acting type cylinder. The only seal material, often compressible Vee packing, on these type rams is under the internal nut shown in his picture. The packings can be tightened up a number of times (even added to sometimes) over its life. Not real clear in the pictures, but it looks like a punch was used to turn the nut in the past, not an uncommon practice.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
One.
OP
OP
grandpa Love
Well-known Member
The general consensus is I need to attempt to unscrew the 'nut' on the end and identify the packing material? Or give it a bit more twist tight? Sounds like it may not be a rubber seal.....?
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Like some had said, single acting cylinder.
I don't give GP's cylinder much hope.
Cylinder is pointing up. Rod is rusted.
When loader is on the ground, piston is at the bottom.
Rain water runs go down the rod inside cylinder.
I'm betting if he gets cylinder apart
he will find the inside of cylinder full of rust.
Getting the end off may be next to impossible.
The threads will be rusted too much.
Good luck.
I don't give GP's cylinder much hope.
Cylinder is pointing up. Rod is rusted.
When loader is on the ground, piston is at the bottom.
Rain water runs go down the rod inside cylinder.
I'm betting if he gets cylinder apart
he will find the inside of cylinder full of rust.
Getting the end off may be next to impossible.
The threads will be rusted too much.
Good luck.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
That is not adjustable packing. What is probably in there is a fat o-ring and leather back-up ring. The punch marks are from driving the gland down into the cylinder to release the retaining ring. Instead of a punch, a piece of pipe should be used, that fits over the rod and yet fits inside the ring. This may require a little machining if the rod is not standard black pipe size. A piece of electrical conduit might work too. If you try it with a punch, and the gland is stuck in the barrel, you could end up riveting the rod in the barrel ; that gland looks awfully thin. Dont want to get crazy heating it either, it may be a pot metal bearing. That is my guess, based on what I see in the pictures.
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