Sizing a shop heater

redtom

Well-known Member
I'm setting up a shop in my pole barn. I've walled off and insulated a 24' x 40' x 14' high shop area. I've run a nat gas line from my house 3/4 diameter. I tee'd after the meter before it goes into my house. Its approx. 140' long. I got a nearly new hanging heater from my buddy for a good deal-his son works for a heating contractor. Its a Dayton forced air heater 150,00 btu. I haven't hung it yet. I'm wondering if I will have enough gas and if its just way too much btu. My buddy says I will need the size to bring up the temp fast enough. I wont be heating it 24/7, just when I'm working. Any advice?
 
The size at 150K is good. Running an undersized unit is going to keep it chilly and prolong the time it takes to be comfortable. Good to go. Jim
 
I had a 26x44x16 ft commercial garage. Only heated one side. 14x44.
It could be 90 at the ceiling and snow wouldn't melt on the floor.
Heat goes up. I hung a 5,5kw electric heater in the top corner to blow he heat back down. Then used squirrel cage fan to blow cold air up to the heater.
Ceiling fan can't push hot air 16 ft to the floor. Tenant would use an LP portable heater for about an hour to assist to get the chill off along with electric.

The size of shop heater really depends on how well it's insulated, how much air infiltration you have and how to get the hot air to the floor.
 
Part of my shop is that size. Heat it with a Modine 50,000 btu hanging heater. Keep it around 55 degrees all winter. Once the concrete slab is heated it does a good job. Friend has a shop that is not heated all the time...only turns it on when needed. He says it takes a long time to warm up with a bigger heater because the slab takes a long time to warm and is cold below knee height all the time. We use about the same amount of fuel in a winter's time. This is in E SD...gets cold here.
 
in general it takes 40 btu per sf for average heating--your building is 1000 sf so that would be 40,000 btu--but you are about twice the normal height so i would double that to 80,000 BTu
so that heater is plenty sufficient

A 3/4 pipe at 140 ft can deliver about 65 cfm--depends on the pressure to determine if it will be sufficient to produce 150,000 btu
 
The heating contractor son should be able to evaluate your furnace requirements and then determine your gas line requirements. Up sizing a long gas line could cost more than what you saved on the discounted furnace.

Heating a frozen concrete slab can soak up a lot of heat before it gets comfortable to work on. It could take a day or two of steady heat to warm up all the equipment, tool boxes, floor and any vehicles or machinery in a cold shop. Is the slab insulated?
 
Drat. My shop's 14ft tall, was thinking a couple ceiling fans to push heat down.

Did you actually try them, or just figured they wouldn't work?
 
I had a 100,000 in the 24x24x9 garage at our last house, it was probably a little oversized, but when you drove a cold vehicle in when it was -20F outside it still took awhile. Now I have a little shop that I heat all the time 16x20x9, 35,000 is fine for that.
 
It might help if you could tell us if your coldest daily temperatures are +40F or -40F.
 
Worked for a guy that had 2 ceiling fans and they worked fine for what you want to do . His shop was about the same size as your is.
 
I have a 24' x 40' x 10' high shop. I heated with a 70,000 btu furnace. Shop is insulated with 6 on walls and 16 in the ceiling. Doors are insulated with double pane windows. I keep it heated at 55 degrees 24/7. Nothing like a heated shop to work in.
 
Mine is 40x40 with 20 ft high ceiling my heater is 175 000 btu heater works great, I also have ceiling fan to blow the heat down
 
Can't help you on whether the gas setup is OK. If you live in a northern climate that gets to -20 on occasion and the shop is nice-n-tight and the insulation is6 inches thick in the ceiling and at least 12 inches in the attic your heater is way too big. It will cook you out a minute after it kicks in and will continue to cook you until the thermostat warms up enough to shut it down. The air will warm up faster than the thermostat can handle it. Your heater will work better if your building is uninsulated so the air warms up slower but the downside to that is the air will cool down faster than the thermostat can handle it to kick it back in and of course much wasted heat.
 
My commercial garage was used as a body shop. Lot of primer dust in the air. Primer dust from sanding primer paint.
You could see a ceiling fan could push the primer dust halfway to the floor and then the dust returned to the ceiling. The snow that fell off cars on the floor wouldn't melt.
Pushing the cold air up the corner of garage to the overhead heater made the floor warmer and no chill factor like you would have using a ceiling fan.
The overhead heaters fan would push some hot air down, but it didn't stay down.
Ceiling temps could be 90-100 degrees, floor was freezing.
That's the problem with tall ceilings, even in a house.
We used a squirrel cage fan from old furnace. In the summer the squirrel fan was our AC.
 
I have a 100,000 BTU Horizontal furnac in my garage and only run it when I'm working out there.I HAD 40 feet of 1/2 inch pipe to it and found that after firing for a couple minutes, as the fan kicked on, it would run a few seconds and shut off, as the heat exchanger cooled too quickly. Wait a couple minutes and repeat the cycle. Went with a 3/4 inch line and now all is good.
 
To the guys that don't heat a work space 24/7. Do you have any trouble with tools rusting? We found that when we heated a very cold room once a week, we had trouble with condensation and things rusted.

Bill
 
I keep a 72x40x12 shouse at 40 degrees all winter. ^ inch insulated wall, insulated doors, and 12 ft blown in insulated ceiling. I have a 150k Reznor hanging pointed at the west doors. That heater will bring the shop up to 55 in about 15 minutes if it is around 10 degrees oat. Use about 350 gals propane over the winter. Haven't had it fired up yet but next week looks like time for it. Near Mitchell.
 
no--that guide line used SF---so i doubled the btu requirement for the extra high ceiling and volume
 
The standard table says that 150 feet of 3/4" polyethylene pipe can only handle about 93,000 BTU/hour of natural gas with a .5" water column drop in pressure. However, if your setup can handle a larger pressure drop then it might work.

For example, if the regulator is set by the gas company to provide 11" water column, with a 6" water column drop that pipe can provide over 300,000 BTU/hour. But this depends on both your regulator setting and the lowest pressure at which the heater can operate properly.
 

I run a much bigger heater the run is about the same on 3/4" pipe.

They tapped the house meter the shop tap is on the right top the same line going to the house before the house regulator. They put a regulator for the shop heater where the 3/4" pipe came out of the ground at the shop.

Everything I run house, shop, water heater, grill, generator is feed off one tap all have their own regulator.

150K is gonna be way more than enoufh you will be shutting it off... When it comes on its gonna make you sweet... My old shop 24X48 has a 150 before I insulated it 150 was great now its insulated its way to much...



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