Log splitter video

Your suction side hose is a mess. You need to get the kinks out and maybe get a larger one.
 
Does deadheading cyl either direction pull engine down or act like relief valve popping off? If not cyl piston seal is bypassing, so cyl resealing is in order.
 
(quoted from post at 23:08:02 11/09/21) Your suction side hose is a mess. You need to get the kinks out and maybe get a larger one.

I agree, looks like it is twisted and collapsed.


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Looks good to me. You can work out the kinks and glitches after you get a feel for it. I would use a continuous 1 double braided hose for the suction side along with fittings that dont reduce the flow or make the flow go around a 90 degree turn. Only guessing but I would think a pump that size can kill the engine at full flow and pressure. I dont know if any of us shade tree guys who have made a project that was not modified after we used it awhile.
 
The suction side of the pump sucks oil from the reservior into the pump. If the hose not of the correct construction, it will collapse, as your is doing. Thereby...starving the pump of oil flow.
 
It's what brings the oil from the tank to the pump. If it's restricted like yours you get no volume so movement is slow. Takes a hard hose so it doesn't collapse under suction, but doesn't require steel because there is no pressure. Anywhere that sells hydraulic hose will have it.
 
Replacing the suction hose may help.

If you replace it, it must be hydraulic return hose, not automotive heater hose.

Return hose has stiff walls that resist collapsing, and is made of Neoprene, not rubber. Rerouting it so it is more relaxed and not trying to kink will also help.

Still, I think the pump may be too small.
 
As small as that cylinder is and big as the pump is that thing should just run back and forth. Like all the replies you are starving the pump get a larger diameter and right suction hose.
 

It's been my experience that running the pump directly off the PTO will result in very slow operation unless the tractor is revving fairly high and then it was still not fast enough.

My old splitter is a trailer type that had a PTO shaft from the tractor to the splitter mounted pump, a smaller pump than what you have. Very slow.

I took a 4 speed transmission from a '74 Dodge 1 ton that I scrapped, mounted it on the splitter reversed so the PTO turns the trans output shaft and the pump is connected to the trans input shaft.

Trans in 2nd or 3rd gear, can't remember which for sure right now, turns the pump plenty fast enough with my old Ferguson running just slightly above an idle.

Also, in my opinion, your splitter is much too low to be operated comfortably. I don't like working bent over.
 
That pump should cycle that splitter faster than seen here. I agree that the place to start is to correct the suction (pump supply from the reservoir) hose. If you can't readily find suction hose, have a regular 2 wire hydraulic hose made. Since the pump gets handled a good bit and moves around some on the PTO. Hydraulic hose may be more expensive, but it will be a more durable hose. It should have an inside diameter equal to to larger than the inlet fitting thread size in the pump body. You will need a swivel adapter fitting (similar to the ones on the valve body hoses and the pump outlet fitting) on at least one end (either the pump body or the reservoir outlet) for the final attachment of the suction hose, do not twist the hose after connecting the first end.

There may still be a tag or stamping on the pump to tell you what size it is. Those pumps ranged from about 11 gpm to 40 plus gpm. Even 11 gpm should be stroking the cylinder faster than in the video. If the hose doesn't correct the speed and you are running the tractor to give 540 PTO rpm it is possible the pump is worn and flow is down. Most likely the hose is the problem, that's my 2 cents.
 

From your description, I would guess your pump was not designed to run from a PTO as the one on his splitter is. One would need to be careful about using a speed step up like yours on the type pump designed to run at PTO speed.
 
(quoted from post at 11:01:52 11/10/21)
From your description, [b:432a5260f6]I would guess your pump was not designed to run from a PTO as the one on his splitter is[/b:432a5260f6]. One would need to be careful about using a speed step up like yours on the type pump designed to run at PTO speed.

You would be right. It is the type that would be driven by a small engine or off the front of the tractor's crankshaft pulley.

Regardless, it keeps the tractor's RPMs, noise and possibly wear and tear down which is my reason for describing it.

Should have been clearer about that I guess.

Back to his. If the pump wasn't getting enough fluid to operate the cylinder fast, would the cylinder's action not be jerky or jumpy for lack of better terms?
 
(quoted from post at 11:42:44 11/10/21)
(quoted from post at 11:01:52 11/10/21)
From your description, [b:660a49ca6c]I would guess your pump was not designed to run from a PTO as the one on his splitter is[/b:660a49ca6c]. One would need to be careful about using a speed step up like yours on the type pump designed to run at PTO speed.

You would be right. It is the type that would be driven by a small engine or off the front of the tractor's crankshaft pulley.

Regardless, it keeps the tractor's RPMs, noise and possibly wear and tear down which is my reason for describing it.

Should have been clearer about that I guess.

Back to his. If the pump wasn't getting enough fluid to operate the cylinder fast, would the cylinder's action not be jerky or jumpy for lack of better terms?

Intermittent flow, suction leak drawing air, and/or and dragging cylinder might make it jump. Restricted but steady flow I would expect smooth slow movement as seen.

If yours is a regular wood splitter pump that would be coupled to a small engine it was likely designed for around 3600 RPM. A front mounted pump could be designed for 1500 to 2500 rpm. Either way, a step up from PTO speed would be needed as you found. My thoughts, for what they are worth.
 

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