Battery disconnect

Russ from MN

Well-known Member
Location
Bemidji MN
Has anyone ever used the cheap disconnects that HF has for a 6 volt tractor? Our Farmall C seems to have a small parasitic drain, but if I disconnect the ground cable the battery stays up for weeks. I know with 6 volts there is more amperes. I put one on our sons boat a few years ago, it works fine for that. I just saw this explanation of electrical terms, it explains it well!
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It looks like they don't stock the kind I put on sons boat, it mounted remotely and has a red key switch. All they show now is one that goes on the battery post.
 
I would prefer ones that's rated for at least 200 or more amps. More expensive Marine or Blue Sea disconnects are better of course. Current under load isnt near as hard on them as SWITCHING UNDER LOAD which you wont be doing anyway, so if they are rated at least 200 or more amps and have good heavy studs for mounting whatever cable sizes you have I wouldn't be afraid to try them. You might take a VOM and probe around looking for the phantom load in the meantime since an old tractor isnt all that complicated, maybe some bad insulation or a faulty switch or something in the Voltage Regulator or Cutout Relay or no telling where?? If you had a meter in the line and started removing one thing at a time you might find the phantom load??? There may only be a wire or circuit for lights and another for charging to try one at a time looking for the problem???

Nope never used one of those brand switches I bet someone here has ???

Jonh T
 
Quote: I just saw this explanation of electrical terms, it explains it well!

Your example is a good one. When explaining electrical terms to someone who has absolutely no electrical knowledge whatsoever, I describe it like a water hydrant.
When your water hydrant is completely off (or on), your voltage compares to the amount of water pressure you have before the valve. Low water pressure would be low voltage, higher water pressure would be higher voltage. When you turn the hydrant on, your flow of water is compared to electrical amperes, low flow is low amps, high flow is high amps. The amount that your hydrant is turned on is compared to the resistance. Barely open hydrant is high resistance, completely open hydrant is low resistance.
Too simple, really, but it gets the point across.
 
A post mounted disconnect should work fine unless it is in a location that is difficult to reach.
 
My Farmall C has a small drain because of the 12v alternator.
I solved that problem by running the two small wires going to alternator through the switch.

Where is the parasitic drain from?? If from voltage regulator, do as I did.
Find the drain and post back.

Last thing I would want to do is use battery disconnect, which I would forget to disconnect.
 
Battery acid tends to eventually find it's way into the post-mounted disconnects causing them to ''leak'' electricity even when ''ofF''. A REAL quality battery disconnect switch mounted where it's sheltered from the rain/weather is a MUCH better solution, IMHO.
 
I have one on my 51 Case VAC and one on my 52 8N.
I don't have a problem remembering to shut them off.
They are right there where I can see them.
 
Battery switches have their good and bad sides.

The bad:

Using one on a 6 volt system is another source of resistance, the last thing a 6v system needs!

If you use one, look for something in the 200+ amp range. Preferably a sealed marine switch, mounted away from the corrosive battery, as in where the ground cable connects to the engine block.

Good chance the drain is a symptom of another problem, possibly a warning that something is not right. Could be a corroded connection, failing insulation, a pinched or chewed wire, water inside the ignition switch or amp meter...

Shouldn't be too hard to find on such a simple machine.

The good:

It will eliminate parasitic drain.

Disconnecting the battery on any piece of farm equipment is a good safety measure. Mouse chewed, pinched, old deteriorated shorted wiring can be a source of disaster!
 
I have a disconnect on the positive battery cable on 5 tractors because I haven't put one on the rest yet. The best for the money is the black knob one from RK. The red key style are not as good and the big expensive ones are the worst I have had. My tractors sit a lot over winter and I know what mice and other critters can do. I don' t need a fire.
 
What kind of issues? Ive had one for ten years and the only
issue Ive ever had is when I forget to tighten the knob and
have to get out and tighten it
 

They are so brittle, you are adding more connections in the circuit at the battery. They fit clumsy on most set ups. I have more of them would have to dig out of my salvage lead/brass collection. I like the ones you mound away from the battery so they are much easier to get at.

I prefer them on the ground side near the operator are the fuel shut off and always where I can get at them in the drivers seat.




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The plastic knob has melted from heat : (



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I use them on all my stuff that sits for extended periods, some of my tractors its just as easy to pull one cable off right at the battery.
 
You guys need to go drive your tractors around more. They like it better and less work than putting all those cobble jobs on them.
 

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