Advice needed, tractor models to consider

JohnKempf

New User
Hi Friends,

I have worked on farms for decades, but always with horsepower of the four footed kind, and am very unfamiliar with tractors. I am in need of advice on which tractor models I should consider as possible options to fit our needs. I would love to get your opinion. Thanks!

I expect to use a tractor for the following:

- Moving/ piling/spreading wood chips and compost
- Pulling a trailer carrying 3000-4000 lb weight on highways and off road for 15-20 mile round trips (transporting honeybees)
- Load and unload honeybee hives on trailer
- Planting and frost seeding 60-80 acres annually
- Brush hogging/mowing 60-80 acres once or twice a year
- Possibly, in the future, make hay in between wide orchard rows with small hay equipment. Will need to fit in 10-12 foot row spacing if possible.
- In the future, possibly spraying orchard/tree crops and hauling out harvest

I dont anticipate using this tractor for tillage or soil preparation work.

Considering that I am moving a trailer or wagon off road with honeybees, it seems to me I will likely want 4 wheel drive.

I will want a loader, ideally one with a larger bucket option for lightweight materials, and forks for loading and unloading.

Given that this tractor will possibly be using for tree crops and orchard in the future, I prefer a lighter weight tractor to minimize compaction from repeat traffic on paths. However, need enough weight to manage trailer on roads, etc.

I have a preference for a tractor that is reliably built, and is relatively easy to work on, with minimal/no electronics, although I am open to a newer model tractor if needed/better.

I have good local mechanics able to repair and service most brands. I have access to dealerships for parts of most tractor brands within 30-60 miles. The closest one is a Kubota dealership, with a reputation of being difficult to deal with. I prefer to avoid them, I think.

I am budget conscious , but I am not sure what to consider reasonably priced.

With this context, what tractor models would you advise us to consider? Do any of our objectives seem out of alignment or in possible conflict? What is a reasonable budget for the tractor model you would suggest?

Thank you!
 
Not sure what you can spend? So if you are thinking 5-7
thousand, I would recommend that you buy a tractor with at
large numbers of these tractors built. Example, MF 165, IH
584, Ford 5000. All of these tractors are 40 or so years old, in
the 50 go range , can do the various jobs you listed. And parts
are readily available, and fairly easy to repair.
 
I agree with Bruce's comment. A 50-60 horsepower machine would be plenty for what you are looking to do. Of the ones Bruce listed I would go with a Ford 5000.
 


towing a 4,000 lb trailer safely on the road requires a tractor of around 5,000 lbs. Frequent loader use with minimum soil compaction calls for four wheel drive. A two wheel drive needs to be considerably heavier to do the same loader work as a four wheel drive.
 
In what general part of the world are you located? Do you have a "not to exceed" budget in mind?

I am confused with: "Possibly, in the future, make hay in between wide orchard rows with small hay equipment. Will need to fit in 10-12 foot row spacing if possible." What type orchard? What average foliage spread from the plant base? To me row spacing is from the root stem, not tips of foliage, I would not consider 10-12 foot row spacing wide, but narrow. Even trimmed and trellised I would think travel area would be down to 8 feet or less, without brushing the plants. At that spacing I think you will have trouble trying to make hay even with small equipment, especially hooked to a tractor of the size required for your other needs. Maybe you will need a second tractor, small, for some of your work.

Light weight, loader, pulling a 3,000 - 4000 (+) trailer can be in conflict. Is the terrain flat or hilly? Any wet spots? Depending on what you spray in the future, you may want a environmental cab tractor, or you will be suited up in protective raingear and and full face respirator, not fun in hot, humid weather. Just some thoughts.
 
If working around trees a lower profile utility tractor with an under slung exhaust to the rear might catch fewer branches than a tall row crop tractor with a vertical exhaust. Some manufacturers offered orchard models with extra streamlined sheetmetal and low profile, but that may not be compatible with a loader. Also look for a quick attach loader, removing the loader when working around trees greatly increases your manuverability. A loader needs adequate counter weight on the rear axle for traction and safety, wider and taller tires increase the soil contact area to reduce compaction.

Probably the biggest factor is: what is your budget? Four wheel drive pushes you into more modern tractors, 1980's and newer.
 
(quoted from post at 02:40:07 09/23/21) Not sure what you can spend? So if you are thinking 5-7
thousand, I would recommend that you buy a tractor with at
large numbers of these tractors built. Example, MF 165, IH
584, Ford 5000. All of these tractors are 40 or so years old, in
the 50 go range , can do the various jobs you listed. And parts
are readily available, and fairly easy to repair.

Thank you Bruce!

I am thinking the 5-10k range, but would be willing to go higher if absolutely necessary.
 
I do a lot of what you do with my tractors. I think you need at least a 50HP tractor and 65 HP or more would be better. I do not like
4wd. If the fields are wet enough to need 4wd, I am going to make nasty ruts that will never heal. For your mowing, plan on using an 8
to 10ft mower, to reduce mowing time. That again needs at least 50 HP, 65 would be better. I have a John Deere 5420...2wd...very
reliable for the 18 years I have owned it (bought new). Minimal electronics . Around here they sell used with a loader for $20K. Any
brand tractor of that size and HP will do what you are looking to accomplish. My tractor is surprisingly agile for its size.
 

Ah, you are correct Jim, I didn't communicate clearly, guess that's what happens at 1:40 AM.

I am located in NE Ohio.

The width on orchard rows is likely to be 18-20 feet from tree row to tree row, with likely crops being chestnuts and elderberries. I anticipate having 10-12 feet between shoot tips.

The terrain is flat to slightly rolling with some wet spots, large hills are rare.

I don't expect to spraying pesticides, but a cab is still a proactively good idea.
 
Sounds like you would need a 50-70 hp utility tractor. If you want a mfwd (4wd) loader tractor you will probably be looking in the
mid 1980s thru approx. 2010 time frame. Much newer gets you into more complicated engines due to emmissions requirments. A few
models to consider would be Ford 4600,4610 .5610 . JD 5105,5205 5210,5310, 5410. Kubotas of similar size. Newer loaders usually
have a system that allows for easy changing of loader bucket to forks, many use skid steer type attaching , John Deere has its
own system. Good parts/dealer support is important if you buy something and plan to keep it for a while.
 

My budget preference would be to be in the 5-10k range, but am willing to go higher if necessary.

I expect to use this tractor for some time, and want to buy right while I am at it.
 
A $5K to $10K budget will probably limit you to 2 wheel drive tractors with a loader. Run away from any tractors from feed lots or dairy farms, they are often beyond worn out.
 

It is not what you are asking, but I thought I would throw in my two cents about loader tractors -
I had a beekeeper place hives on my farm for a number of years. They owned a pickup, cattle trailer, skid steer, and skid steer trailer. No tractor. Obviously, a skid steer won't pull a wagon or equipment with a PTO, but it will outperform a loader tractor in almost every job requiring lifting. They make an amazing array of attachments for skid steers these days. I have a mower, wood splitter, pallet forks, brush grapple, log grapple, 100"snow bucket, 66" tooth bucket' 80" light material bucket, 72" heavy material bucket, truss lift, super sack holder, fence unroller, bale forks, triple bale forks, bale hugger, etc. And there are MANY more attachments available. I would not farm without my skid steer. I have owned loader tractors in the past, but have not had one for about 5 years now. I have a Deere 317. If anything, I would buy a second skid steer a little bigger.

If you are hard set on a loader tractor, get one with a reverser. Since you will not be doing row crops, consider an industrial like a John Deere 401. They are more likely to have a reverser, and can be had for less money. Be aware that some do not have 3point or a hydraulic remote or a PTO, and be sure to get one that does. Also be sure to get a loader with a joystick control. These two features make or break a loader tractor.

To keep them light, you can take the fluid out of the tires and build a 3 point counterweight. When you need it light, you can remove the loader and drop the counterweight. but DO NOT use a loader tractor without some sort of ballast in the back. They can be very dangerous.
 
You're kind of putting the cart before the horse. Instead of just doing a nationwide search for a few brands and models, it'd be
best if you found a few tractors that are for sale and then ask if those would be a good choice. This post could go on forever with
folks just telling you what their personal favorite tractor is.
 
(quoted from post at 07:22:24 09/23/21) You're kind of putting the cart before the horse. Instead of just doing a nationwide search for a few brands and models, it'd be
best if you found a few tractors that are for sale and then ask if those would be a good choice. This post could go on forever with
folks just telling you what their personal favorite tractor is.

I understand, with my lack of experience and knowledge, I needed some initial guidance on size/capabilities etc. With all your generous input, I will start looking around and learning, and come back with options.
 
The heck of it is, when you look at all the requirements that you have, it really limits the choice if you only want one tractor.
60-80 acres is a lot of brush hogging and I'd assume you'd want a pretty good sized brush hog, so 50 horses might be a little
short. On the other hand, you want to get between trees in 10-12 foot rows, is that correct? So a larger tractor might not fit the
bill there. I've got one 135 horse tractor here that the axle width puts it out there where I can't back it in the hay barn where
the poles are on 10 foot centers. From what I'm seeing, folks are recommending common row crop type ag tractors. You might have to
change your sites to a larger specialty orchard and vineyard tractor. Get what I'm saying?
 
If you are doing loader work i don't care if it is four wheel drive ya need the BACK END HEAVIER and the more ya have on the back the better . And if he lives where he says as he is North of me up in the WET country he needs four wheel drive . I worked up in that area and learned early it's WET . When the first big oil and gas push was in full swing we were doing a lot of work up in that area , when building a new drilling location you did not just send one dozer ya sent TWO , one to try and build the location and one to just set on somewhat stable ground to drag the other out when it got stuck . Been up that way on service calls and have become STUCK with four wheel drive just tryen to get to what's broke. He has a John Deere dealer up that way and a Ford dealer . Good USED tractors around here are just that GOOD AND USED -------UP.
 

Got it.

It seems it may make sense to borrow/rent/contract for the brush hogging, and do the rest with a smaller tractor.
 

Yep, it's wet. Not that wet all the time, but some of the time. 45+ inches annual rainfall. Hard to make dry hay reliably.
 
Based on the info you gave....you will need a tractor with:

1) 60-70hp on the PTO
2) Loader
3) Has some weight to it (capable of handling large brush hog)
4) Minimal electronics

My suggestion would be a Ford 5000, as others have already mentioned. They are built like a tank, make reliable horsepower, parts availability is great, good haying tractors and easy to work on.

There is one for sale near me that has been gone through. Super nice tractor for $8900. I'm in Washington State.

I wouldn't mow/brush hog that much acreage. That would take days. Can you just make hay out of it?

This post was edited by FrogCreekRanch on 09/23/2021 at 09:23 am.
 

We are growing sweet clover and other clovers in combination as a nectar/honey crop, and need to mow the plants in the fall when mature to knock them down and scatter seed for the following year.

It could be another mower, wouldn't have to be a brush hog.
 
For the places honeybees end up setting you definetely want the MFWD on a loader. Something like a 2940 or some of the IH models would work though the Deere is a bit clumsy for tight place loader work. Most MFWd are going to be a bit more clumsy in tight places anyway.
 
We pulled a 12 foot batwing with a Case
IH 4240. Same tractor as a 985, 995, or
IH 984 had they built it. The 884, 885,
895, and 4230 would also do the job.

They also have both 540 and 1000 PTO.
Look around at loaders, you dont need a
2250 or 2255, they're overkill for your
use. A loader off any old international
utility tractor would fit.
 
For your orchard type use a utility tractor may be better suited to your needs as it sits lower to clear branches, etc. With your intended uses a loader seems
mandatory. Once you have a loader with a bucket a set of pallet forks is really handy for handling palletized items like bees, supplies, and the like. And in my
experience a shuttle type transmission is a perfect fit for a loader tractor. Some of your newer lower horsepower utility tractors have hydrostatic transmissions
but I never liked them. Ugly memories of renting one when mine was in the repair shop still linger in my head. The right tractor in the 55 to 65 horsepower range
will do all of your required jobs. Remember that in general more power equates to more weight which equates to more compaction. I know of a low hour four wheel
drive New Holland with 12 speed shuttle transmission, roll bar with canopy, dual rear hydraulic remotes, hydraulic top link, 3 point quick hitch, loader with
quick tach bucket and pallet forks that is for sale. It will come with box blade and newly restored, but never used, 3 point 7 foot wide field cultivator. There
may also be some spraying equipment that goes with it as a package deal. If you can find something like this in your area, it would make you a good setup for
starters. Good luck in your search. Let me know if I can be of further help.
 

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