Best Gasoline Fuel System Cleaner/Fuel Stabilizer

Steve in IL

Member
What do you folks use for treating fuel in tractor fuel tanks, for keeping the fuel system clean? I have a few gas tractors that I don't use very much, and I'd like to avoid fuel quality / fuel system issues, if possible. The three gas tractors are '53 JD 50, '58 Ford 641, and '73 Ford 4000SU. Not sure why, but the Ford 4000SU seems to have more fuel issues than the other two combined. Thanks.
 
I use Seafoam in my small engines, mostly the 2 strokes, as soon as I sense a slight problem, but I use them regularly, and only use ethanol free gas. In our Farmall C I put about a quart of diesel in every 5 gallons of E-10, that has worked fine for over 10 years, but I use it occasionally all summer. But it sits in the shed from October to May without being started, but starts fine with no other additives. I add the diesel to reduce corrosion in the gas tank and to lower the octane a little.
 
The treatments will not keep the fuel clean.

If you are having trash problems, either the tank is contaminated or flaking rust, or the fuel going in is contaminated.

The treatments will somewhat preserve E10 from gumming up the works. The gas in the tank is usually not the problem, it's what's left in the carb bowl that causes grief.

Turning off the fuel and pulling the bowl drain plug when you know it's going to be parked a while is the best solution. If you can loosen the line at the valve, it will drain better. Don't want to leave the carb open, it might become a bug nest.

If there are any rubber lines, they need to be drained, or better yet put it back all steel. Rubber and ethanol don't get along! It will flake from the inside.
 
No matter how old, Sea Foam does not have a shelf life if a container remains sealed.
On containers that are opened and re-capped, Sea Foam will maintain much its cleaning
and lubricating qualities for several years though there are always variables to
consider.

The STA-BIL Fuel Stabilizer Shelf Life Defined If you have an unopened bottle of STA-
BIL, it will be good for up to five years. Then once you open the bottle we recommend
using within two years for best results. However, after the two years you may still
use the product as a fuel system cleaner as long as there is no sediment or flakes.
 
If you have a dirty tank, sea foam will clean things you never knew were in there and plug stuff up tight in a STORAGE situation.

On a tractor used on a regular basis it works fine.
 
Go to your nearest General Avaition terminal and get about 10 gallons of aviation gas for use in those infrequently used gasoline tractors. It'll probably cost you about $70.00 but will save you at least two to three times that amount in peace over the aggravation that gummed up carbs will cause in the future without it. Av gas does not contain alcohol so it doesn't draw moisture nor eat rubber parts & deteriorate gaskets.
 
The best solution is to drain the tanks and carburetors till you want to use them again. This method works very well for me..
 
I'm still waiting for someone to explain how so-called fuel stabilizers supposedly work. Yes, I use Stabil from time to time, but more through superstition than science.
 
I use a Primrose product and have had tractors sit for four years. Those tractors have started and ran like I used them the day before. Tried Stabil years ago and didn't like it. Sea Foam is a good product. Most of my tractors sit over winter with a little to a half tank of gas and start right up in the spring. These tractors are anywhere from 1927 to 1959
 

I've had better luck with Berrymans B-12 than Seafoam. And I've had even better luck with the Lucas fuel system cleaner than Berrymans. Just what I've observed, take it or leave it.
 
Over many many years and a ton of tractors (was a used dealer and farmer) and trying different snake oils in my experience Sta Bil and Sea Foam and Heat (for water in gas) have been the best products to keep fuel fresh, reduce gum n varnish, and keep carbs clean. I'm not a chemist (and doubt anyone here is or can explain the chemical process how it works) but I can say based on years of use and experience IT WORKS. One other thing I used to do which I believe helped prevent rust in certain carbs was to add a bit of low ash two cycle oil in with the gas for long term storage..

Just like which are best brands of oil or spark plugs a subject such as this typically yields a ton of OPINIONS including mine lol

John T For those so inclined please pray for the crisis at the border and Americans left behind and stranded in Afghanistan..
 
(quoted from post at 03:33:02 09/21/21) I'm still waiting for someone to explain how so-called fuel stabilizers supposedly work. Yes, I use Stabil from time to time, but more through superstition than science.

I can point you to a series of videos that show that fuel stabilizers DON'T work. Taryl Fixes All on youtube did a 1-1/2 year long series comparing pump gas, that $25/gallon "Tru Fuel", and seven other so-called fuel preservatives/stabilizers. Most of the products didn't last any longer than straight pump gas, and some required servicing the carburetors months sooner.

The initial quality of the fuel has more to do with longevity than any magic potion. Ethanol is only 10% of what's in your fuel, and it is a natural octane booster. This allows fuel suppliers to sneak poor quality gasoline into the supply.
 
Seafoam and Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in all the vehicles - one with over 250K miles with no problems
Seafoam and Marine Stabil in boat - over 820 hours and ran over 60 miles at over 4K rpm's on Sunday with no issues
Stabil in small engines - all with no issues
Stabil and MMO in my 1956 Ford 640 tractor - runs like a new one :)

This works for me...
 
Barney ..... well Taryl Whoeverheiz obviously never owned my 79 Honda Goldwing. Spring starting for years with the same gasoline was almost impossible after sitting 5-6 months, an absolute nightmare, and that is an understatement. I started using fuel stabilizer in the fall and the difference the following spring and others after that was hard to believe. I'm happy for Taryl that he spent so much time on his little project but I can't agree with his thesis. Since you have watched his videos, what sorts of research methods and testing did he do I wonder?
 
I have been using 10% ethanol since it's mandate at the pump and like I have said many times before, no problem in regularly driven tractor, lawn mower or car.

But, store that vehicle during hot weather and you end up with horrible green crap gumming up the works . Did all three of my tractors just couple weeks ago as they had not been run all year.

The two rider mowers , sit all winter in same barn, no problem.

That green crap that forms on carb parts is extremely potent stuff. Got a good whiff of it when cleaning the floats with a soft brush on a dremel.

Two of those carbs were cleaned two years ago.
 
I watch and enjoy a lot of You Tube testing videos. The funny thing is you can watch one that supposedly proves one product is best and watch another that says just the opposite lol THERES NO SHORTAGE OF OPINIONS (many just the opposite) ON YOU TUBE SAME AS ON HERE. I tend to experiment research then draw and trust MY OWN conclusions.

NOTE Im NOT saying or arguing any one test or video or paper or article is right or wrong IM ONLY SAYING there can be found tests or videos or papers or articles in opposition to any particular ones.

Trust yourselves

John T
 
(quoted from post at 10:25:07 09/21/21) Been using the 10% STUFF HERE IN IOWA SINCE THEY STARTED MAKING IT 40 PLUSS YRS NO PROBLEMS AT ALL


I believe you local fuel blends are the determining factor in who has issues and who doesn't. Folks like you that say they use ethanol fuels for decades with no problems can't all be lying. Where I live, it's a 100% guarantee that any small engine or older tractor/vehicle (say pre-1980 or so) using ethanol fuels will have serious fuel issues sooner or later. Much, much sooner on small engines, later on something like a tractor. I'm talking dissolving fuels lines, plastic fuel caps that swell and can't be removed without Channel Locks, the dreaded black gunk varnish that NOTHING will cut and has to be physically dug out, etc. I have to drain the fuel from a lot of my stuff or it simply gums up the whole system. Even on brand new machines it happens. I just put a new carb on a pressure washer because of it.
 
I agree
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