The auction M part 7 pieces and parts.

Its been about a 3 weeks since weve been able to spend some time on the old M. Just to recap where were at with this project, I bought it at auction in late July in non running condition with a stuck brake. My son really took an interest in it so we started working together on it. We got the brake working, rewired it, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced the sediment bowl and fuel line. Installed new spark plug wires, cap, rotor, points, and coil cover. Changed oil and filter. Checked the valve train, and got it running. Today we put in a new set of gauges. Since we dont the know history of this machine I really didnt want to run it much with out some input from working gauges. We replaced the seat shock. Installed heavy battery cables. Beat the PTO shield half way back into shape and put it on. The last thing we did today was replacing the throttle lever with a friction style one. Thats just personal preference. Ive never cared for the saw tooth style and usually change them out. I think were just about ready to put some hours on it and see how it does. I do have a couple of questions I hope you can help with. We are still having starting trouble and today I noticed the post on the starter is loose. Could it be shorting out internally? I think I can take the starter apart and fix it just something Ive never done before. 2nd question: how in the world do I get the old steering wheel off? It in pretty tough shape. We taped it up just to use it for now. Ive got a new one here just need to find a way to get the old one off. Thanks for your input and thoughts as always! Next update we should be putting some run time on it!

Heres a picture of the starter. The center post turns when you try to tighten the nut. Im thinking its either shorting out or going open inside.

Take a hack saw or sawzal and cut through the hub of the steering wheel, then drive a chisel or screw driver into the sawed slot.

That may be what has to happen. I put a wheel puller on and tried to hit from the backside and it wouldnt budge.

1939 farmall great to see your son is helping. Good hear the ole girl is running. I would try to tighten the bottom nut on the stud see if that takes care of starter problem. RB

The steering wheel looks like a good candidate for some heat and it'll pop off.

Depends how the stud attaches inside the starter, it might just be loose, but I suspect it is soldered on the inside and if it's turning, it's broken.

If you take it apart, it will be obvious once you see what's in there.

I've never had much success trying to solder big stuff like that, never had the equipment to make that kind of controlled heat. If there is a starter shop near by, they can solder it for you.

Have you tried heating the steering wheel hub? That should release it.

The stud is soldered to insulated wire coils. If it wriggles, the connection may be broken. Turning the stud will cause it to break the stud away from the coils. Pulling the armature out of the starter body will reveal the soldered joint.

I guess Ill have to try heat before I cut the thing off.

If you get the bearing separator and a big gear puller on that steering wheel, you might want to tap on the puller after you get considerable tension on it. That and some heat should work.

Thanks. He really seems to be enjoying getting it going. Ill try to tighten the bottom nut again. I was having trouble holding the stud still when I tried to do that before.

Blunt end bit in an air chisel usually will shake those steering wheels loose.

I I think I need a better gear puller. I thought I had a 3 jaw puller but naturally I cant find now that I need it! Ive been using my 2 jaw puller I may not be getting enough pressure on it.

Thats what I was afraid of. The stud is moving quite a bit. I think Ill have to open it up and take a look. Thank you.

Fenders would make that thing safer.

Im thinking the connection is broken inside. Ive never tried to solder something like this. I guess Ill open it up and see. I dont really have a shop close to me to do the work so I guess Ill give it shot.

I havent heated the steering hub yet. I put a 2 jaw puller on it and gave it a few good whacks and it didnt budge. I figured it wouldnt come off easy. Thats probably one of the few parts you can guarantee hasnt been removed since 1941!

Good idea. Hadnt thought of that. Ill give it a try. Thanks

Your right. Finding one of these old Farmalls around here with fenders is pretty rare.

I limped along with a small puller for several years.
Finally bought myself a decent big puller and don't use it much any more.
Things go a lot easier with the right tools.

Its fixable, Ive done it a time or 2, but personally Id take it to the rebuilder and have them go through it.

(quoted from post at 21:05:51 09/18/21) Fenders would make that thing safer.

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Fenders would make both of them things safer.

I imagine that you have already soaked the steering wheel hub & the steering shaft with with your favorite rust buster penetrating fluid (or what my friends & I call squirrel pee). If you haven't, apply generously, if you have already, apply generously again. Thanks for the updates, I for one really appreciate the news that you are getting a great young man interested in our favorite hobby!

I updated this in a new post above. We got the starter working and the steering wheel replaced! He really seems to be enjoying working on it! Thanks.

When you get it apart if it's not broke from the solder joint. Lock 2 nuts together to tigthen the bottom one then tighten the bottom one and unlock the others. Threads will still be good that way.