Extending a hydraulic cylinder.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 14, 2021

I have an IH 2350 loader and both bucket curl cylinders are leaking, and the rods are pitted.

Rather than rebuilding the cylinders at $250 a pop, I'd like to find something to replace them. The stroke is a little more than 22" and the retracted length is 44".

I found a cylinder with a 22" stroke but it's only 32-1/2" retracted length. I need to make up 12"

The rod end of the new cylinder is threaded. Do you think I could have a rod extension made up at a machine shop for the extra 12" that threads on to the end of the rod, and have it work?

DRussell · Sep 14, 2021

Unless you already have them laying around, by the time you buy the replacements then modify them
to fit your required length you'll probably have as much in the replacements as rebuilding the old
ones.

Does your rebuilding price of $250 include re-chroming to fix the pitting?

NY 986 · Sep 14, 2021

Easy enough to make but what is the shop going to charge? They will charge for everything involved including setup time for any
equipment or tools needed. Have you checked with places such as Wenger's or Fry's to see if a 2350 is being parted out?

rustred · Sep 14, 2021

are you doing the rebuilding, or sending them out? as that seams high just for seals. i resealed both of mine for 200.00. i took the seals to
Fluid Power and they matched them up. i think i would sooner extend the anchor end, with a dummy piece of pipe same size as cyl. after cutting the anchor tabs off and redoing them on the dummy pipe. be a lot stronger. hey your the
barnyard engineer ,lol.

jimtrs · Sep 14, 2021

(quoted from post at 10:43:44 09/14/21) I have an IH 2350 loader and both bucket curl cylinders are leaking, and the rods are pitted.

Rather than rebuilding the cylinders at $250 a pop, I'd like to find something to replace them

My experience with hydraulic cylinders is that unless you get [b:d3cc6665be][i:d3cc6665be]exactly sized [/i:d3cc6665be][/b:d3cc6665be]replacements, the labor and material to make something else work can end up being a lot more than the cost of rebuilding. A good competent hydraulic shop should be able to set you up. In the end, you'll have good working, correctly size cylinders, for a lot less work. Just IMHO

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 14, 2021

For all of you asking, $250 is just for the seals for ONE cylinder. No labor. No rechroming of the rod. Just seals.

Actual price is $227.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 14, 2021

(quoted from post at 09:02:13 09/14/21)

(quoted from post at 10:43:44 09/14/21) I have an IH 2350 loader and both bucket curl cylinders are leaking, and the rods are pitted.

Rather than rebuilding the cylinders at $250 a pop, I'd like to find something to replace them

Click to expand...

My experience with hydraulic cylinders is that unless you get [b:3975b58ae1][i:3975b58ae1]exactly sized [/i:3975b58ae1][/b:3975b58ae1]replacements, the labor and material to make something else work can end up being a lot more than the cost of rebuilding. A good competent hydraulic shop should be able to set you up. In the end, you'll have good working, correctly size cylinders, for a lot less work. Just IMHO

Yeah, no. They want $400 a cylinder just to look at them. Won't "match up" parts for me. Say they've been screwed out of their time too many times by people who take the parts list and their cylinder, then go order what they need online.

That doesn't include rechroming the rods. I'll be into each cylinder over $600 to do that.

I can get cylinders with the correct stroke for $169 each. They're just 12" short.

New OEM cylinders are over $800 each.

Even if I have to get something made for the extension, I believe I can replace both for what one new one will cost.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 14, 2021

(quoted from post at 08:32:40 09/14/21) Easy enough to make but what is the shop going to charge? They will charge for everything involved including setup time for any
equipment or tools needed. Have you checked with places such as Wenger's or Fry's to see if a 2350 is being parted out?

Yeah been down that road. $250 each plus freight for the cylinders and no guarantee that they will be any better than what I have.

ss55 · Sep 14, 2021

A machine shop might be able to make some extensions for you, but I doubt that it would be less than $100 or $200 each.

Bucket cylinders take a lot of abuse, your existing cylinders probably have an internal stop tube that keeps the piston from traveling too far down the bore for extra strength and to extend the life of the bearing and seals inside the cylinder. If the rest of the loader is in good shape and it preforms well for you, I would rebuild the existing cylinders rather than kludge something together cheaply that might bend a cylinder rod the first time you use it hard. If all the cylinders need rebuilding, the valves leak, all the hoses need replacement, the frame is bent and it needs a new bucket, it might be less expensive to just replace the whole loader.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 14, 2021

Even at $200 each to have extensions made, I can replace both bucket cylinders for less than what one OEM replacement cylinder will cost.

Traditional Farmer · Sep 14, 2021

Go to Surplus Center website match up a couple cylinders.

Steve@Advance · Sep 14, 2021

It might work.

Being it's your tractor, and you are the only operator, and treat it like it's yours, it just might hold up.

Have the extensions made of 4140 pre hard, with wrench flats, clean and red Locktite, tighten the c**p out of them! I would take a new cylinder to the machine shop so they can match and fit the threads, and take the clevis from the old cylinder so they can fit it.

Maybe...

Andy Wickiser · Sep 14, 2021

I had that problem on a Ford loader. I
cut the end rod off the old cylinder in
the right amount and welded it to the rod
on the new cylinder.

crsutton81 · Sep 14, 2021

I don't know what material they use
at the equipment mfg / repair place
I use, but I have had many new rods
made for cylinders. All they did
was put it in the lathe and turn it
to the correct dimensions. None of
them were sent out to be hardened of
chromed. All have held up very
well. Can you effectively do
likewise with the original cylinders
or have a correct one piece shaft
made for new ones that you have in
mind ? I think this would be far
superior than screwing something
onto the original clevis threads.

SkipperII · Sep 14, 2021

DoubleO7 · Sep 14, 2021

I think there is a reason the cylinders are 44 retracted and 66+/- extended.
There is likely an intermediate piston to stop extension way before the max. possible so that the rod is more supported and resistive to bending when extended??

I am thinking an extension screwed on the end of rod will snap the rod right where the threading meets the rod.

IMG_1014.JPG.d51c2332942ab2c0337d423f4319d90b.JPG

cjunrau · Sep 14, 2021

There are other ways of doing it
Buy a cylinder 44 long with longer stroke and install
stops on the bucket
Weld new mounting brackets where the 22 stroke
cylinder needs them. Or weld 12 inches of heavy
pipe to the top of cylinder instead of rod as that is
what allied did to get an odd ball cylinder, which is
now no longer available.

DoubleO7 · Sep 14, 2021

="cjunrau"](reply to post at 17:51:52 09/14/21)

A 22 stroke cyl with the base connection moved closer to the bucket might adversely effect the range of curl.
Might have to move the bucket to rod connection also.
And get new hoses.

Steve@Advance · Sep 14, 2021

Just had another thought, cut the ends off the old cylinders, let the machine shop cut them to length and thread the ID.

mjsnodgrass · Sep 14, 2021

you need to find a new hydraulic shop. i don't know the diameter of your cylinder rods, but today i bought 10ft of chrome 1045 rod. it was
about 2.00 a foot i believe. at that price, why would anyone rechrome a small diameter cylinder rod? i can understand rechroming/grinding a
1000 dollar rod if it wasn't bent, but not a small diameter rod. same time i bought the rod, i bought a couple 3 in polypac piston seals,
and some gland seals. i believe the total for them was about 30 bucks. i won't see a bill until the end of the month so i apologize for not
being more accurate with my prices. i understand a hydraulic shop has overhead, and need to make a profit but those prices seem way out of
line to me. good luck with your project.

DoubleO7 · Sep 15, 2021

(quoted from post at 01:44:12 09/15/21) you need to find a new hydraulic shop. i don't know the diameter of your cylinder rods, but today i bought 10ft of chrome 1045 rod. it was
about 2.00 a foot i believe. at that price, why would anyone rechrome a small diameter cylinder rod? i can understand rechroming/grinding a
1000 dollar rod if it wasn't bent, but not a small diameter rod. same time i bought the rod, i bought a couple 3 in polypac piston seals,
and some gland seals. i believe the total for them was about 30 bucks. i won't see a bill until the end of the month so i apologize for not
being more accurate with my prices. i understand a hydraulic shop has overhead, and need to make a profit but those prices seem way out of
line to me. good luck with your project.

What diameter was this $20,, 10 foot chromed rod??
If the prices you mention are true, please post address and phone number of where you bought from.
We all would like to buy from a shop selling stuff priced in the 1960's.

mjsnodgrass · Sep 15, 2021

good catch. my bad. should of read 22 a foot for 1.250 rod. i actually bought 3 rems about 36 in long.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 17, 2021

(quoted from post at 10:16:48 09/14/21) Go to Surplus Center website match up a couple cylinders.

First place I looked. They have ONE that's close, ONE. It's an oddball and they won't be getting any more in.

The next closest thing are these 22" stroke cylinders which are the right stroke but 12" too short.

BarnyardEngineering · Sep 17, 2021

(quoted from post at 13:50:52 09/14/21)
I think there is a reason the cylinders are 44 retracted and 66+/- extended.
There is likely an intermediate piston to stop extension way before the max. possible so that the rod is more supported and resistive to bending when extended??

I am thinking an extension screwed on the end of rod will snap the rod right where the threading meets the rod.

I suspect that you are right.

I found an old post on Red Power with part numbers for the wiper and seal. Found them online for roughly $45. I'm going to try new wipers and seals and hope they last a while. The rods aren't THAT pitted.

Why the idjit that I bought it from stored it outside with the bucket rolled all the way forward, I have no idea. It didn't leak when I bought it but after I started using it, it started leaking pretty bad from the right cylinder. The left one is a little wet.

jimtrs · Sep 19, 2021

(quoted from post at 11:33:51 09/17/21)

(quoted from post at 13:50:52 09/14/21)Why the idjit that I bought it from stored it outside with the bucket rolled all the way forward, I have no idea

Click to expand...

Not an idiot. Just the way he preferred. Lot's of folks do it. Would rather rebuild a cylinder every 20 years or so than replace a bucket. Cheaper that way.

Extending a hydraulic cylinder.

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