im making progress.

rustred

Well-known Member
got north side done on tractor shed. this side had the original shingles on it from the 1970's when it was built. its those green ones at the end. the south side was replaced one about 15 years ago and its due also. its not real professional but will keep the drips off tractors. ue
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Curious as to why the shingles are installed with a 1/4 stagger between courses instead of the 1/2 stagger as manufacturer recommends? No roofing felt under the shingles?

This post was edited by Scott 730 on 09/07/2021 at 08:00 am.
 
its just the way i did it is all , with this assortment. i said not professional and shingling is not my favorite thing knees and back cant take it. and dont
think it matters much and as my dad would say next guy's problem lol. had an assortment of shingles and doing no good on the ground.
 
(quoted from post at 11:01:10 09/07/21) its just the way i did it is all , and dont
think it matters much and as my dad would say next guy's problem lol. .

Doesn't matter what kind of assortment of 3 tab shingles you are using. There is a reason they are installed as a 1/2 tab stagger. Underlayment felt is a 2nd line of moisture protection. Your roof may leak sooner rather than later. Good luck.
 
guess thats why i am not a carpenter roofer guy. plus the guy did not use underlayment 50 years ago on it. guess we shall see. so what is the
reason?
 
I'm not sure what the reason is for the nit-picking. It's your roof and what's done is done. You're not going to tear up the shingles and do it "right."

Anyway the reason for the 1/2 tab stagger is to get the seams as far away from the tab gaps as possible. You got a seam within a few inches of a tab gap, that makes a leak.

Why do shingles even have tabs?

Shingles are not nearly as good as they were 50 years ago. Trying to keep costs down and the EPA happy, they don't use nearly as much asphalt now as they did back then. Underlayment wasn't necessary then but it is important now.

Again, what's done is done. No reason to nit-pick. You will destroy all those shingles tearing them up even if you wanted to. Some roof is better than no roof.
 
With his arid climate much like SV's it probably will not matter for many years. 10 inches per year is a lot different than in a 30-50 inches per year.
 
thats right , i would not even think of tearing them off. its on an open open front used to be cow shed. so lots of drying going on facing
the south. plus those roof boards are hand picked lumber from when dad worked at the sawmill dry piling lumber in the 1970's its more of the
wind tearing them off i am concerned about. i am always open to learn.
 
Keeping the drips off is all that counts. It sure beats trying to keep tractors covered with cheep china tarps, that have to be replaced every year. Stan
 
Barney .... I respectfully disagree. Up here anyways, no more paper-based asphalt shingles made at all (which were the norm 50 years ago and even 20 years ago). Now the basic structural part is fiberglass strands and today's shingle lifetime puts the paper-based well back in second place. Asphalt is only part of the shingles lifetime I would say.

I think that we (me too) often think because something is bigger and heavier that it is better. Head on crash tests with cars prove that today's engineering make the driver safer in lighter and what appears to be flimsier cars and trucks than those from 60 or 70 years ago. I guess I'm wandering a bit eh?
 
My back hurts just look at pic. When I was younger I would have done it myself. Now I have a person I call, tell him the address, what color and he sends me a bill when done. I don't even ask the price. I use 35 year architectural shingles figuring I won't be around the next time it needs roofed unless their is a hail storm. Last storm was in 1998.
 
The original shingles lasted 50 years . It has 6 boards and that even makes it easier to follow keeping things in line. It was our cow pole shed and the south 60 ft is wide open. Not like its a closed in building. So that is basically why shingles on top of boards. Pretty well the way stuff was built back then. Im old my tractors are old and the shed is old. Ha ha.
 
rustred
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2021 5:25 pm Post subject: Re: Soldering part 2 Reply to specific post Reply with quote
i give that a poor job. not enough heat. you cant solder that with that gun. you need a small torch for heat.and looks like you need to clean that up so the solder stick. those guns are for soldering wire.

Don'tcha hate it when someone shi_s on your project?
 
Theres more than one right way to do many things. Made a living nailing on the 3 tab shingles. I remember when the stick down strip was the new and was the neatest thing. Ive seen many stager patterns on the packaging of shingles including the 4. In this part of the country most 3 tab shingles were installed on a stagger five. Use your gage to get your exposure and then gauge from the end to get your stagger. Quick, easy and makes a smooth looking roof. Didnt have to spend as much time on layout.
Andy
 
I only use felt if the homeowner requests it. And then, I recommend 30lb. Main reason is to get the boards covered quickly so anything below (insulation-ceiling) gets protected fast. Once the roofing is nailed on, theres literally hundreds of nails penetrating the felt so the felt really isn't the second line of defense. My own home is now 50 years old and on it's second roof. (First roof was T-Lock) now 3-tab.
 
ya i remember that post, what am i to say? good job? if an instructor looked at the job he would tell u the same thing i said. i dont have
any problem here with these posts so what are you saying??? but as i said im here to learn too. if the job is not good its not good. as i say
i dont put sugar on anything. the birds will shi- on my project but such is life.
 

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