All I want to do is get rid of this truck. Every thing is a major problem. I got the front end back in. I had to come up with a lot of small missing parts. I had to rebuild the stuck calipers. Now I have brake fluid to only the right side. Apparently there is a proportioning valve , of some sort, that is sticking. Can this valve be cleaned? The truck has been sitting for years may be the problem. Stan
- Thread starter 37 chief
- Start date
Steve A W
Member
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Have you checked the rubber lines?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
The proportioning valve does not shut off one line to either side. Like Steve says, check the rubber hoses, especially if you let the caliper dangle from them for any reason. Take the bleeder all the way out and make sure it isnt plugged.
Check Break
Member
I fought that problem on my 85 for a couple of days. Turned out it wasn't the proportioning valve. It was the master cylinder. They have to be bench bled, and I mean on the bench. You can't bleed them in the vehicle without a pressure bleeder.
Bet the rubber hose and/or line to that side is plugged. Brake fluid congeals when it sets and has collected too much moisture. Also, don't rule out someone plugging the line fitting up stream with a nail to stop a leak. Some people who don't care about the safety of others will remove a line fitting, and put a small underlayment nail in the line, and reassemble the fitting to stop a leak. Sounds stupid, I know, but I have run into it more than once in my shop.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
I have seen that claim for years . What is the
difference whether you operate the piston with a
screwdriver in a vice or the push rod on the
booster?
difference whether you operate the piston with a
screwdriver in a vice or the push rod on the
booster?
hoof print
Member
The angle the master cylinder sits when installed on the can trap air. Level on the bench is generally the best way to bleed.
Determined
Well-known Member
With wear and tear over the years your pushrod may not be able to travel all the way.
It may or may not be returning fully.
You have a better feel doing it in the vice with a hand tool versus the mechanical advantage the pedal gives you.
With some of the old floor mounted master cylinders you are eliminating a step that involves working upside down with fluid dripping on you.
It has been said one can flip or damage a seal if you don't bench bleed the master before installing it, I have never personally seen it happen but that doesn't mean it's never happened.
We all know that one guy that like the saying says "he could break an anvil with a rubber hammer".
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
First, if the rod is not retracting fully, the MC will
never fill because the inlet hole will be covered.
Bench bleeding will not correct this. If the brake
system is not extending the push rod far enough,
bench bleeding will not correct this. These are
deficiencies that need to be corrected if there is any
hope to stop the vehicle. And as far as MC
angularity, they are angled so the outlet is up so the
air rises to a point where it is expelled out the brake
line.
never fill because the inlet hole will be covered.
Bench bleeding will not correct this. If the brake
system is not extending the push rod far enough,
bench bleeding will not correct this. These are
deficiencies that need to be corrected if there is any
hope to stop the vehicle. And as far as MC
angularity, they are angled so the outlet is up so the
air rises to a point where it is expelled out the brake
line.
DoubleO7
Well-known Member
- Location
- Crystal River, FL
You rebuilt the calipers for less than $40 per side?
The repair kit from NAPA was a little over $9.00 each. Each time I do one they get easier. It would be easier just to buy rebuilt ones. Time is on my side, where a garage couldn't spend the time. It's not just like popping a couple rubber cups in a wheel, or master cylinder. Stan
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Is there a tee in the line for the front brakes or does each caliper have a separate line all the way back to the proportioning valve? Disconnect the hose from the brake line and see if you have good flow. If still no fluid,THEN start looking for blockage upstream. Hate to keep harping on the hose but they do delaminate internally and cause all sorts of havoc, including acting like check valves. If you have to destroy it, youre not out much, only about 15$. But if you mess with the P valve first, youre gonna wreck all those lines, then youll have to fix all that. Best to risk 1 line in a easily accessible area to find the problem, rather than destroy 4 or 5 and another lost day, only to find out that wasnt the problem.
jimg.allentown
Well-known Member
I sure do see a lot of wrong answers here.
Proportioning valves do not shut off one side. They separate the front circuit from the rear circuit.
Given the age of the vehicle, the first place to look is at the flexible lines.
Then there is that business about the actuating rods or pins. REALLY? That is just plain splitting hairs.
Check the lines first!
Proportioning valves do not shut off one side. They separate the front circuit from the rear circuit.
Given the age of the vehicle, the first place to look is at the flexible lines.
Then there is that business about the actuating rods or pins. REALLY? That is just plain splitting hairs.
Check the lines first!
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