Ford 841 valves

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
9:30 pm. Been sitting in the living room watching TV with my wife. Been thinking about this tractor. We walked down to the barn. There is zero clearance on any of the valves. Book says check hot,but shouldn't there be some clearance on some of the valves?? The thinnest gauge will not slide in there.
cvphoto98285.jpg


cvphoto98286.jpg

I don't have the combination adjusting tool I'm guessing a wrench will work? They appear to be tightened down within a round of being all the way......

cvphoto98287.jpg
 
You don't need the fancy adjusting tool, just a feeler gauge and an end wrench to turn the adjusting ball.

The manual will show a procedure to turn the engine to certain positions and adjust the valves, then turn it again, etc. That can be confusing and inaccurate.

A simpler method is to put the correct feeler gauge in and slowly turn the engine, feeling for the loosest point as the cam turns. Keep turning and feeling the gauge drag, lock it down at the loosest point. Remove the plugs to make it easier to turn.

Setting it hot is the preferred method, but not necessary. Just add a couple thousandths if you want, it's not that critical on the old engines.
 
I was taught more then 50 years ago by and now dead guy to adjust them this way. When the exhaust valve is open you adjust the intake and when the intake is open you adjust the exhaust. That way you know for sure the valve your adjusting is closed all the way. Book calls for 0.015 when hot. I have an 841S and have had it since around 1981. It was rebuilt back in the late 80s and back in the early 90s it blew a head gasket so I had to replace the head gasket. Not easy to do with the loader it has on it. Do you know what the S stands for??
 
I do not see how putting the engine at number 1 compression at top dead center then setting half the valves and the turning it one turn and set the remaining half could be confusing? And if it was inaccurate they would not put it in the factory repair manual? I think threads of those valve adjusters are self locking. You just turn it and they stay where you stop no lock nut.
 
Kevin, I agree.
There should be play enough to put the feeler gauge in some of them no matter where the engine is turned to.
I would take the plugs out and when you fell the compression stroke and the piston is at the top, set those 2 and move to the next one.
Yo SC friend, Richard
 
Sounds like every valve in this tractor needs an adjustment! Maybe #1 is just farther off than the rest. Stay tuned for an update!
 
You need to set them cold at close to .020
Run the engine till warm, then adjust while running at idle. The feeler gauge should pull out from inserted with just enough drag to assure it is touching both the stem, and the rocker squarely. It is necessary to follow the sequence in the book. Running it with no, or near no clearance is not best practice. Jim
 

I have been bit a few times going by the book on setting the valves I get the cylinder to TDC compression stroke that's the true place to set them bar none. Its not the fastest way but you take all the error's out of the equation. We are not doing production work so we have the time to confirm true TDC.

After its running I set them running (ON NO MR BILL) its not that hard are dangerous. If you have a clicker you can find it and eliminate it while the cover is off. To make this sound official its the way the oldtimers did it : )


BTW a nice tool to have that comes in handy for jobs like this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOfxPDBf8ug
 
HoBo
Your way is how I was taught to set valves. Then check them with engine running.

Also re-torque head bolts after engine is warm, if you had the head off for a valve
job.

To re torque my Farmall I had to remove the valve train too.

I'll add, I remove all plugs, Put a pencil in spark plug hole to determine TDC.
 
Some people just like to make things complicated when there is no need for it . The engineers designed it and wrote the manual no Need to second guess
 

I did not say you could not go by the book, remember its not brand slap'N arse new nor are we working on a production line.

The true dead nutzz way to do it is set both valves at TDC and I stand by it. I am not a well know engine builder BUT most that are will secretly spill the beans of that's the way they do it...

Bar none it eliminates a mistake... Not to mention your best guess...
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top