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1964 IH 806 Electric Either unit

S

sonnythomas

Member
Location
Bryant, Ill
Like title. Starting fluid unit. Need new unit. Line is there and push button on dash, but holder and whatever is missing.......

Can't find it listed in Parts.........
 
Item #2 is pn 393719R91 but NLA at CASE-IH.


mvphoto78649.png
 
A good sound 806 D really does not need EITHER . Either on them due to the high compression and over use will knock the top rings out . Mine with 10000 hrs on the clock and have owned it since like 1996 above 10 Degree's F a twenty second crank let set for a few and crank again she will start , below that add in 120 volts to the heater for a couple hours and she will start like summer . A proper rebuild and valves done right a starter that is turning the correct RPM and a sound injection pump and injectors I have seen them start at -30 below setting in a three sided shed not used for three months and start . I personally remove the either units .
 
(quoted from post at 17:53:12 07/16/21) I dont use ether on my tractors as well
Click to expand...

I hear you. The previous owner had install a new pump - lines all messed up. My brother got those straightened out and we finally got it to start, but with a shot of ether. Engine sounds strong, real strong, no smoke at all. My brother believes the pump not timed properly. From all the manuals we have he doesn't see the noted timing mark or reference point.
Throttle wide open as per instructions it's just on the verge of wanting to start.

The previous owner is well into his 80s and I don't think not all quite there. The owner told of paying for the pump, $1700 something. That's when he let it set. And it's been sitting 4 or 5 years....Brother had bleed the fuel lines to and from the fuel filters and the fuel lines to the injectors. Back end sitting low and a hydraulic leak didn't help. 7 gallons low on hydraulic oil. Fixed in heart beat. Power steering didn't work, so jacked up the front and moved the wheels by hand to get the fluid moving - air locked it seemed. Steers like a Cadillac now.

Picture to show the nightmare we started with. The old farmer said he had it running. My brother says there is no way this tractor could run with hoses all wrong, especially feeding right back into the pump....

mvphoto78656.jpg


This post was edited by sonnythomas on 07/16/2021 at 07:37 pm.
 
My advise is to take that injector apparatas off and throw it away.A good 806 doesnt need ether.And neither does any other diesel in good shape.And you dont need to pull it wide open to start,either. Just at
or a fuzz over idle and it should pop off first piston up.I removed the electric injectors on mine. threw it away.In the very rare instance
my tractors ever need help to start,a short wiff in the air cleaner is enough. Overuse of ether can break rings and 'train' it to only start with
either.In cooler/cold weather,use of an engine heater is best.Time it right and it will start without issue.BTW,if you dont have a/the
book(s),order them today.
 
Well if that is how the fuel lines are hooked up it will NEVER RUN . And timing marks are on the flywheel under the cover on the right hand side of the bellhousing along with a pointer that you SHOULD find under the cover once you remove the cover then you use the cover bolts and bolt the pointer back down . If that is the picture of said pump it sure does not look rebuilt . Correct timing for a R D pump is 50 Degrees BTDC . also since you have no idea as to where the pump is timed remove the timing window on the side of the pump and look for the line on the weight shaft and align that with the X mark . IF you have NO timing pointer under the timing hole on the bell housing then get one off any 706-1456 from a bone yard . Clean the WHOLE FLY WHEEL side off and you will find timing Numbers.. And get your supply lines hooked up to the filters correctly .If you can't then find and OLD TIMER who knows these tractors from when they were new . R D pumps were replaced on many 806's way back to the Roosamaster , BUT there are still some out there . That line you have running back into the suppl pump is NOT right as it needs to be going to or from one of the fuel filters with one running back to the other filter then from that filter back to the inlet to feed the head of the pump
 
also the way the fuel lines SHOULD be hooked up/ Plumbed is the line from the tank SHOULD go into the topside of the fuel filter closet to the tank , then a line / Hose off the bottom of that filter should go up to the supply pump on the suction side ( now for give me here as i for get if it is the top or the bottom fitting that is suction ) Been a few years since i have had to work on and RD pump . Then the discharge side needs to run back to the side fitting of the second filter then the line off the bottom needs to run to the inlet for the head feed. Like i said it has been a few Moons since i had and 806 with and R D pump and i do not know who bought it at the sale or where it went so i can not just run on over and take a couple pictures of how why and what for of it . My 806 i have now USE to be and R D pump 806 but was changed WAY before i got it .
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:40 07/17/21) Well if that is how the fuel lines are hooked up it will NEVER RUN . And timing marks are on the flywheel under the cover on the right hand side of the bellhousing along with a pointer that you SHOULD find under the cover once you remove the cover then you use the cover bolts and bolt the pointer back down . If that is the picture of said pump it sure does not look rebuilt . Correct timing for a R D pump is 50 Degrees BTDC . also since you have no idea as to where the pump is timed remove the timing window on the side of the pump and look for the line on the weight shaft and align that with the X mark . IF you have NO timing pointer under the timing hole on the bell housing then get one off any 706-1456 from a bone yard . Clean the WHOLE FLY WHEEL side off and you will find timing Numbers.. And get your supply lines hooked up to the filters correctly .If you can't then find and OLD TIMER who knows these tractors from when they were new . R D pumps were replaced on many 806's way back to the Roosamaster , BUT there are still some out there . That line you have running back into the suppl pump is NOT right as it needs to be going to or from one of the fuel filters with one running back to the other filter then from that filter back to the inlet to feed the head of the pump
Click to expand...

Brother has everything aligned as you noted. His got everything in time, but the mark on the front of the pump housing isn't there (mark is noted in the manual). He can see a 10, some slash marks, 15 and a few more slash marks or words of that effect. I'm guessing degrees.
Again, he says it's just off enough that it won't start without a small shot of ether. So close, but won't fire up.

I need to have him write out whatever. What it is, my brother can't set before a computer. He will mess it up bad and not enough touch it. Something about his body. He can put on new wrist watch and have it dead in few days time, if not in a day. He can use a pocket watch for maybe a month. He can't walk through the doors of stores without the alarm going off. No one can explain why he does this. So it's print out whatever and let him read it.
He is a retired mechanic. It takes a semi trailer to hold all his tools. The trailer parked in side yard.
 
(quoted from post at 08:28:28 07/18/21)
(quoted from post at 08:50:40 07/17/21) Well if that is how the fuel lines are hooked up it will NEVER RUN . And timing marks are on the flywheel under the cover on the right hand side of the bellhousing along with a pointer that you SHOULD find under the cover once you remove the cover then you use the cover bolts and bolt the pointer back down . If that is the picture of said pump it sure does not look rebuilt . Correct timing for a R D pump is 50 Degrees BTDC . also since you have no idea as to where the pump is timed remove the timing window on the side of the pump and look for the line on the weight shaft and align that with the X mark . IF you have NO timing pointer under the timing hole on the bell housing then get one off any 706-1456 from a bone yard . Clean the WHOLE FLY WHEEL side off and you will find timing Numbers.. And get your supply lines hooked up to the filters correctly .If you can't then find and OLD TIMER who knows these tractors from when they were new . R D pumps were replaced on many 806's way back to the Roosamaster , BUT there are still some out there . That line you have running back into the suppl pump is NOT right as it needs to be going to or from one of the fuel filters with one running back to the other filter then from that filter back to the inlet to feed the head of the pump
Click to expand...

Brother has everything aligned as you noted. His got everything in time, but the mark on the front of the pump housing isn't there (mark is noted in the manual). He can see a 10, some slash marks, 15 and a few more slash marks or words of that effect. I'm guessing degrees.
Again, he says it's just off enough that it won't start without a small shot of ether. So close, but won't fire up.

I need to have him write out whatever. What it is, my brother can't set before a computer. He will mess it up bad and not enough touch it. Something about his body. He can put on new wrist watch and have it dead in few days time, if not in a day. He can use a pocket watch for maybe a month. He can't walk through the doors of stores without the alarm going off. No one can explain why he does this. So it's print out whatever and let him read it.
He is a retired mechanic. It takes a semi trailer to hold all his tools. The trailer parked in side yard.
Click to expand...

See picture - no visible mark under plate on housing.



mvphoto78760.jpg
 

Found a 2 or 3 posts and on other sites that relate of 8 degree, 18 degrees, but none of them tell of what is the mark or pointer that dictates the degree...........
 
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