AC 7010 Roosa Master leak

nisse · Jul 4, 2021

There is a pretty steady drip coming from I believe the fuel shutoff mechanism on my dad's Allis Chalmers 7010. He has had this tractor since new and it has always been hard starting cold, but it has got worse lately. If you turn the key on and let the lift pump run for a while before trying to start it seems to help. I'm thinking the leak may be contributing to the starting problem? Is this a common problem, and what is involved in fixing it? I'm comfortable with gas engines, but not so much with diesel and dont want to make more trouble. Once started the tractor runs well.
Thanks

37 chief · Jul 5, 2021

May have two separate problems. Hard starting. My JD was very hard starting. the problem was a weak lift pump. New lift pump, starts great. the leak just may be a shaft leak, not associated with hard starting. Just my observation of the problem. Stan

Bob Bancroft · Jul 5, 2021

A guy at a local diesel shop was good enough to give me an o-ring and a clip which go on that shaft. And he showed me how to pull the top cover and replace them. No guarantees, of course, as he indicated there may be some wear. But it did the trick.

caterpillar guy · Jul 5, 2021

Hard startin can be caused by several things. Weak lift pump,timing,leaking injection pump,air leak anywhere in the system, plugged filters, tired injection pump. These all can cause your problem.

Tx Jim · Jul 5, 2021

nisse
If you remove cover from IP pay special attention to location of attachment location of each end of the spring beneath the cover.

Dieseltech · Jul 5, 2021

When the stop shaft starts leaking on the outside, I'll bet the throttle shaft is leaking too on the back side next to engine block. The wise thing to do is pull the pump for a complete tear down, cleaning and ALL seals/gaskets replaced. Usually when one leak starts others will start soon after the patch job is done. Hydraulic head O ring and advance plug O rings can leak also. I have an AC 7050 pump apart now for in the same trouble..

Bob Bancroft · Jul 5, 2021

The repair I mention below was on the same basic pump, but on the 4 cylinder AC engine on an F2 combine. It must have been some time after that, that the combine quit. Long story short- it was that part inside which disintegrates.

nisse · Jul 5, 2021

What is involved with removing the pump? I think my dad wants to bring it to a local dealer but I think I would rather send it to you. Ballpark price for complete service?
Thanks

Dieseltech · Jul 5, 2021

Most Stanadyne/Roosa pumps I can repair/test and return in the 400-500 range. Be aware though, I doubt the cold starting may or may not be better after the pump is gone through. Having worked on all tractor makes/models injection pumps forty five years plus, AC direct injected diesels are the WORST cold starting engines I've seen. They run well warm, but need help starting cold when other engines don't. Both the AC 7000 and 7040 I've had before, neither one would start cold setting inside a sixty degree shop without ether or heat. E-mail is open on Classic if you have questions.

AC 7010 Roosa Master leak

nisse

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37 chief

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Bob Bancroft

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caterpillar guy

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Tx Jim

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Dieseltech

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Bob Bancroft

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nisse

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Dieseltech

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