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Bucket forks worth fixing?

RedMF40

RedMF40

Well-known Member
These are currently for sale at the local Farm Heritage Festival that also has a flea market.

They are clearly damaged where the weld is coming loose at the screw-down clamp. So the long screws are at an angle since the weld is pulling away on one side.

Current price, without me haggling, is $175, down from $200. I think they're worth no more than $100 and maybe not even that.

How would you go about fixing these or would you just pass and find something better? I have occasion to move some pretty long logs, reason I'd like a set of forks and these say they're rated for max 2,000 lbs.

Thanks, for any thoughts.

Gerrit
mvphoto77492.jpg


mvphoto77493.jpg
 

Here's the broken weld circled for those who missed it in the regular photo.

Gerrit
mvphoto77495.jpg
 
You can get new ones from Titan for less than that. Their web site is palletforks.com. I have a pair and they are great!
 
I made my bucket forks using recycled 7
inch channel for terramite. Very handy.
cvphoto93058.jpg

Removing the bucket is very difficult.
On the other hand when you need to lift
something extremely heavy
cvphoto93059.jpg

You need to get the object as close to
the front wheels as possible.
The Titian forks are worth every penny.
 
Do you have a welder? Make your own way cheaper and better. I made 2 sets for my 2 loaders made the part under the bucket go all the way to the back of the flat part of the bucket. Used 3/4 fine thread bolt for clamp, and tubing for the forks.
email open, can send photos tomorrow if you want. joe
 
[Thanks for the replies, I'll pass on these forks. Glad I asked. It looks like they are scrap pile material now and also looks like I can get new forks rated at twice the capacity for around $200.

Thanks again,

Gerrit
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:04 06/26/21) Do you have a welder? Make your own way cheaper and better. I made 2 sets for my 2 loaders made the part under the bucket go all the way to the back of the flat part of the bucket. Used 3/4 fine thread bolt for clamp, and tubing for the forks.
email open, can send photos tomorrow if you want. joe
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll get in touch. I'd like to see how you made yours. I've talked to several people who told me they made their own but couldn't quite figure out how they did it. Yes, I have oxy/acetylene and arc welder, not very proficient with either but this sounds like a good project to get some practice.

Gerrit
 
(quoted from post at 17:09:03 06/26/21) [Thanks for the replies, I'll pass on these forks. Glad I asked.
Click to expand...

Another reason to pass is the design. If you notice, the front tip is thick. That makes it very difficult to get under something that is laying flat on the ground; ie, a log, piece of machinery, etc. A better design is one where the tip gets thinner more gradually.

I have a neighbor that made a set many years ago. He used channel, tapered the tip over about 12" or so, and used a piece of 1/4" plate steel to box it in. They turned out great.

I had bought them to use on my JD 4010, but they ended up not fitting. Sold them to another neighbor for what I paid. Sure wish I could have made them work without the effort that would have been needed.

Study other designs online, figure what your specific uses will be, then either find some ready-made that suit your needs, or build a set yourself. Definitely not one-size-fits-all.
 
Looks like the plate above the one that failed
was made for another nut to be welded in.
Would spread the load to both.
 
Get a set of the heavy bale spears some of them will carry a ton each on them. I use ours for loading logs sometimes. Or for carrying long wood with after putting on by hand.
 
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