New idea 486 round baler

Question to all, need help. How do u set the twine on this baler. Is it as simple as pulling it from twine box through eyelits and then Down through the arms and let it hang?? I just dont understand how it would cut. Let me know what u think thanks.

Yup it is that easy. Do keep the twine kind of short for the first bale or you will have the whole ball in the bale. Then you might have to pull it through a bit more to get it started after that there is a knife twine clamp to hold the twine up out of the way during baling. We use a wire to pull it through the tube the twine goes through as it will just wad up in the pipe and not come out the other end. If this model ties from the center out with 2 strings stop and let hay clear then swing twine to center let a bit of hay in to get twine started then finish tieing. When the twine reaches the outside edge of the baler it will be cut off and held till the next cycle. The reason for starting after the hay clears is sometimes if you have the windrow at one side it will pull the twine over the cut off and not feed to the center all the twine will wind around the side and then not cutoff at the end of the tie cycle. Our 484 will then feed the twine with the bale duped out and leave a trail of it till you stop and cut it off in back of the baler and again at the tie pipe. Makes a real mess.

To adjust the amount of twine there is a small screw and nut on the monitor face loosen the nut and trun screw then tighten nut back up. I have never messed with ours jut adjusted more twine on by cycling it my self over the bale a second time seemed to work for us. This method seemed to help with the edges not being loose and coming off bad.

I had a 4x4 NI baler for 20 years, probably 10 years
longer than I should have, but that is another story.
After the string coo is Mrs out of the twine tubes,
either the tubes in the home position. The twine
should be trapped under the knife holder before you
start to take hay into the bale chamber. My bale
monitor gave up working a few years after I bought
the baler, but by then I had learned how to make a
bale without the monitor. HP is what makes a
decent bale with a soft core baler. Yes a 50hp
tractor can make a bale, but the bale wont weight
much. I baled with a 100hp tractor and could make
bales 600-700 lb. as for stringing the bale, I
controlled the twine arms manually, just extended
them out, and once the twine started to run, I would
just move the twine arms closer to the home
position. I liked to put on plenty of twine, and keep
the bales well wrapped. Make certain both twines
are running into the baler, or you can end up with a
bale with string on one side only, a mess. When the
twine arms return to the home position the twine
retainer holds the twine, and the tension of the baler
pulling the string, against the knife cuts the string.
Be certain both strings are cut and held in place
before dumping out the bale. Whatch the twine
constantly while baling, because if it comes free
from the twine retainers, it will start to feed into the
forming bale. Just a word of advice, by a digital
read out thermometer, the kind you aim at
something, and read the temperature. These balers
have sealed bearings on the ends of the rollers, and
there is no way to tell if the bearings are about to
fail. When they fail, they offen will be hot enough to
start hay on the baler on fire. So when done baling
and before putting the baler into the barn at the end
of the day, get a read of the temperature of the
bearings. If one bearing is hotter than the rest, good
chance it is near to failure. They are a pain to
change, but burning up your barn , tractor and baler
, hurts more. Feel free to ask me any other
questions about these balers operation, as I said , I
had mine too long making well over a thousand
bales with it each year. I cant remember much in
detail about taking them apart, but I sure remember
making bales

Awesome thanks a bunch.