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730 Case Gas Tractor Starting problems

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Gkrob

New User
I have a 730 Case Gas tractor that won't start. it just quit one day and now it won't run. It fires but won't run. I've rebuilt the carburetor twice now. Cleaned the gas tank and put an inline filter on it. But it still won't run.
When you quit turning it over with the starter gas pours out of the carburetor.
Has anyone any ideas as what could be wrong?
 
Check the spark at the plug end of each plug wire. It should have a blue hot 1/4 inch spark. Check the points gap, check the distributor shaft for side play. If it's loose, the points will not stay set. Try a used condenser if you have one.

When you turn the gas on, before cranking, does gas begin to drip from the carb?

If so, the carb is flooding. Could be the float is partially sunk, float level too high, the float is bent and touching the inside of the bowl, loose or bad needle valve (be sure the needle slides freely inside the seat and the float tab is not hitting the end of the seat), or trash under the seat. It only takes a tiny speck of trash to hold the valve open. Try draining the carb bowl, sometimes that will flush any trash that may have gotten caught in the needle valve.

If it does not drip before cranking, what you see is fuel draining back down out of the intake, normal following a failed start. But still it should not continue to drip once it has all drained out.
 
X2 plus do yourself a favor and put a 1/4 ball valve inline so you can shut your gas off. Sediment bowl valves tend to start leaking the more you use them. It's a pretty sure thing your carburetor float/needle valve is not working and when you try to start the tractor, a quarter cup of gas is sucked up into the cylinders. With today's almost right parts you can't rely on your needle valve always working. When the gas fumes evaporate, smell your oil on the dipstick and also stick a screw driver in a plug wire and ground it to see what kind of spark you have. If yellow or none backtrack to the points. With the key on you should be able to make them spark by opening and closing them with a screwdriver. Check your voltage at the coil with a test light.
 


As Steve at advance posted, if it has an updraft carburetor, the gas flow is simply gravity at work. Mine always do it. Take a spark plug reading. It is good that you have gas present but it has to be getting to the spark plugs in order for it to start. dry plugs will tell you that it is not and where to look for your problem.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. I will try you suggestions and get back to you.
The gas only runs out of the carb after a failed start. there is no gas leaking before that.
What's the point settings for a 730?
 
It fires but won't run
Click to expand...

Exactly what do you mean here? I take this to mean it tries to start but won't keep on running?
It sounds like it could be the ignition switch. I had one that the engine would run fine until you returned the key from START to RUN the engine would quit.
See if will run just fine with the key in START for a few 15 seconds or so.
 

Maybe better to use a jumper (hot) wire to the coil (or ballast resistor) rather than hold the starter engaged on a running engine?
 
(quoted from post at 23:59:02 06/13/21) Thanks for the reply guys. I will try you suggestions and get back to you.
The gas only runs out of the carb after a failed start. there is no gas leaking before that.
What's the point settings for a 730?
Click to expand...


The gas only runs out of the carb after a failed start. Yes Gkrob, exactly. That is the point.
 
(quoted from post at 23:26:42 06/10/21)When you quit turning it over with the starter gas pours out of the carburetor.
Click to expand...

Are you setting the choke and leaving it? Don't do that. You need to learn what your tractor wants for starting, as it is not a one size fits all thing. Hardly ever does a tractor need full choke to start. Usually only a brief application of choke is required.
 
Yes it runs fine on the starter but when I let it go to run the tractor quits.
I will look into the ignition switch.
I tried to find a wiring diagram but have had no luck so far.
 
I installed a new ignition switch, but that didn't help.
I ran a jumper wire to the coil and the tractor runs great. But as soon as I unhook the jumper cable the tractor quits.
What do I look for now to remedy the problem?
 
(quoted from post at 13:36:24 06/15/21) Yes it runs fine on the starter but when I let it go to run the tractor quits.
I will look into the ignition switch.
I tried to find a wiring diagram but have had no luck so far.
Click to expand...


Without knowing the tractor or what has been done to it over the years the symptoms you described sound like a failed ballast resistor.

The following applies to an engine with a 12 volt system which will usually have a ballast resistor installed before the coil.

There is a bypass circuit which will apply full battery voltage to the coil during cranking to make up for the voltage drop caused by the starter motor.

When the ignition switch is not in the cranking position power is fed through the ballast resistor to the coil to extend the life of your ignition components.

If it is running as long as you are holding it in the crank position it would indicate the bypass circuit is working properly.

The fact that it runs with a power wire direct to the coil also indicates there is no power being supplied to the coil from the ballast resistor.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I will see if I can find an ignition ballast resistor and go from there.
 

I installed a new resistor, but there was no change. It won't stay running unless I use the jumper wire or run it on the starter.
 
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