Cub alternator

I've wired up a dozen Fords, key
switch, solenoid.....but this cub is a
bit different. Pull switch powers the
coil. Pull rod engaged starter. So on
alternator, wire from stud to amp gauge
and then to battery or starter stud?
2nd wire???? To hot side of pull
switch?

The output wire from the alternator goes to the amp gauge, from the amp gauge to the battery side of the starter switch.

The white wire goes to the ignition side of the ignition switch, but needs a resistor to keep it from feeding back to the ignition. Use a 2 lead socket and a 194 lamp wired in series between the #1 alternator terminal and the ignition circuit.

Use it as a charge indicator or just tape it up out of sight.
2 Lead socket

Steve, only one switch on tractor. Pull to power coil. Push to shut off.

(quoted from post at 09:15:46 05/30/21) Steve, only one switch on tractor. Pull to power coil. Push to shut off.

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Only one switch"?? Doesn't the 'start' pull rod operate a switch? Answer: yes,

The delco #1 terminal needs 12v to start charging, when it does start charging that #1 terminal is being fed 12v from inside the alternator. So if it is connected directly to the ignition switch the voltage now coming back from the charging alternator #1 terminal will continue supplying enough current to keep the coil operating and the engine will not shut off. So putting a filament type small lightbulb in series with the #1 terminal and the on off switch (on the coil side not supply side) limits the current trying to get to the coil and the engine stops. When it stops, the voltage goes to zero on the #1 terminal, ready for the next startup. Idiot lights on the dash of cars equipped with several different alternators that are wired like the 10SI operate that way. A 10 ohm resistor of 10 watt dissipation will also work, as will a diode in the wire allowing voltage to go to the alternator in #1 terminal, but not back to through the ignition. Other options are also available to initially give the #1 terminal 12v. They include an oil pressure switch that closes at 5 psi turning on 12v to #1 terminal, but shutting it off when oil pressure goes away. or a momentary contact push button that the operator gives a push to give a pulse of 12v to #1 terminal. It does not need continuous 12v once excited. Jim

(quoted from post at 09:15:46 05/30/21) Steve, only one switch on tractor. Pull to power coil. Push to shut off.

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In your case here that switch you pull out to power the coil is the ignition switch. An ignition switch doesn't have to be a key switch. As Steve@Advance posted you need an indicator lamp (a diode or a resistor will work as well) in the wire to the #1 spade terminal or back feed will not allow you to shut the engine off with the switch. There are plug in harnesses available, on line or maybe at your local parts store, with diodes in them. Here is a example of one which will eliminate the need for an indicator light. You could power the white wire from the 12 volt side of the ballast resistor with this.

Do it the easy way, just install a delco one wire alt.

I ran mine from the alt to the gauge to the stud.

I wired mine to energize via the light switch.
The first position is OFF, 2nd is to the rear light and the alternator, the third position is to front and rear lights. The alternator will charge even when the light switch is returned to the OFF position once it is energized.

Simply hook the excite wire the #1 on the plug to the ignition side of the coil witha diode in line

Coming late to to the game here. But is the wire on the stud terminal that points down in the 6 Oclock position just a cut off end or is it actually going in the alternator case?

Used red, it's cut off! Looks like it's running inside!

(quoted from post at 07:10:10 05/30/21) Do it the easy way, just install a delco one wire alt.

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Except most of them drain the battery when they're not running. I've had several one wire alternators. If you don't run the tractor every day the battery is dead in a week.

We always un hook the - battery cable.