Who was it here that thought thicker oil was better ?

buickanddeere

Well-known Member
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Don't confuse iso and sae ratings,
that's equivalent to sae 140 gear oil,
it's thick but nothing beyond ordinary
really just a different number system
 
I have a friend that just cant understand how thin oil can ever
do the job hes always dumping lucas in because its just got
to be thicker. I said you know Lucas is nothing but snot right
oh now its the best its the stuff they removed from the oil i
said yea and its garbage all it does is dilute your oil and the
additives in it
 
Thicker is better but there isn't a set
number for everything. That 250 wt would
be great in the old Dubuque steering
boxes. If you lived in Nevada it would
be good in the tranny and final drives
too. It would be a little overboard for
most places in cold weather.

I actually have straight Lucas Hub Oil
in the final drives on one of my M's.
It's probably just as thick as that #250
is. It isn't yellow metal friendly and
that's the only reason it isn't in the
steering box. For it I use 140 wt
blended with cornhead grease.
 
Many of my modern vehicle engines that have extreme close tolerances use say 0 W 20 or 5 W 20 oil. Of course thats NOT the
case in a 50 year old low RPM low compression farm tractor engine where perhaps 30 weight is appropriate. In an old worn out
leaking bush hog gearbox I may use say 90 or 140 weight.....

John T
 
Sometimes thicker is the only thing that will work. If 90w140 doesn't work, I fill it with grease.
 
Yeppers there are applications where I like you also use grease instead of oil and it works fine in its place.. In an old worn out bush hog gearbox I like heavy weight oil constantly flying and sloshing around and/or totally immersing all the gears constantly re lubricating them until it all leaks out grrrrrrrr Many of those gearboxes are labeled for oil instead of grease fill and even have a dipstick oil level indicator.......

Of course use whatever lubrication the manufacturer suggest would be my default position until its no longer feasible but hey you know me DO WHATEVER YOU LIKE is my thinking its YOUR machine and YOUR money not mine...

Take care my HAPPY Camper Neighbor

John T
 
On the extreme close tolerance thing, what are they running nowadays? Wondering about piston/cylinder wall, main bearing clearance
 
Fritz, what are they running nowadays?

Sorry I cant say HOWEVER I bet its way closer in todays autos then in our old tractors !!!!

You have a good one

John T
 
My brother was useing the same 15/40 diesel oil in his newer late model pickup that he used in everything else.I,and many others would have probably done the
same..The close tolerances didnt like the thick oil and siezed some major parts,resulting in a complete new engine.The thick oil just didnt flow
properly,resulting in oil starvation,ruining the lower milage engine. We all learned something on that one.Unfortunately,it cost my brother several thousand
dollars to learn that lesson..So if the vehicle specifys 0/20;5/20 you better use it or you may just get a new engine. Oil viscoity does make a difference.
 
An old timer told me that in the 1920s that they could get the
truck started in the winter but couldnt move it because of the
grease they used in the transmission
 
At the feed mill where I work in Vehicle Maintenance (feed trucks/trailers/ hog trucks/trailers), the mill uses a 220 WT oil in
their pellet mills that flows like molasses when they bring old, used oil to put in our waste oil tank. Takes about two hours in
warm weather to drain 110 gallons out of a tote and that's with a 3/4 ball valve opened up.
 
I see a lot of engines these days calling for 0W20 so the tolerances are extremely tight.

The kicker is that old timers see 0W20, freak out because they think that means "no viscosity" and insist on running 10W40.
 
Thick oil is better where it is called for. Lubrication is application specific. So, you cannot say one is better that the other unless you are defining what it is being used on.
 

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