Danny Prosser
Member
From Advanced auto parts. Anybody ever try it on a rusted tractor diesel tank? Thanks.
- Thread starter Danny Prosser
- Start date
grandpa Love
Well-known Member
In the tank? I use vinegar and marbles......then rinse with baking soda and dawn dish soap.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Phosphoric Acid smells like baby vomit. If your rust remover smells like vomit good chance it's Phosphoric Acid.
Amazon sells a gallon of concentrated food grade Phosphoric Acid for about what you would pay for a quart of rust remover. Soak rusty parts in Phosphoric Acid or brush it on. I use plastic to cover the surface so it doesn't dry out. Does anyone know what you add to make it into a jelly?
How to Remove Rust with Phosphoric Acid
Move the rusty object to a well-ventilated outdoor location.
Put on long sleeves, pants, protective gloves and safety glasses before opening the can of phosphoric acid jelly.
Apply the jelly to the rusty object using a paintbrush until the entire object is coated with the jelly.
geo
Amazon sells a gallon of concentrated food grade Phosphoric Acid for about what you would pay for a quart of rust remover. Soak rusty parts in Phosphoric Acid or brush it on. I use plastic to cover the surface so it doesn't dry out. Does anyone know what you add to make it into a jelly?
How to Remove Rust with Phosphoric Acid
Move the rusty object to a well-ventilated outdoor location.
Put on long sleeves, pants, protective gloves and safety glasses before opening the can of phosphoric acid jelly.
Apply the jelly to the rusty object using a paintbrush until the entire object is coated with the jelly.
geo
grandpa Love
Well-known Member
I think you mentioned the issue with using it in a tank. Gotta cover it with plastic wrap.....
Works ok. Not an acid. No neutralizing needed. No flash rust. Kind of expensive.
Im also a vinegar fan. Along with a couple of handfuls of nuts and bolts. Let sit, shake, repeat. Rinse, neutralize with soda and water. Maybe follow up with evapo rust if needed.
As to the jelly making question. Corn starch ,warm water and acid. Brush on and cover with plastic.
Im also a vinegar fan. Along with a couple of handfuls of nuts and bolts. Let sit, shake, repeat. Rinse, neutralize with soda and water. Maybe follow up with evapo rust if needed.
As to the jelly making question. Corn starch ,warm water and acid. Brush on and cover with plastic.
1948CaseVAI
Well-known Member
A couple of the youtube machinists use it is large tubs from time to time and it works really well, but I have never seen them use it inside a tank. They do leave the rusty parts soaking for some time then they have to wipe the rust off when finished. Not sure how it would work in a tank where you cannot wipe the rust out.
Mike(NEOhio)
Well-known Member
- Location
- Newbury, Ohio
I use it a lot, especially for machined parts. Non-acid, non-toxic and biodegradable. I'll wire wheel as much loose rust as I can then soak it for the last bit. It's a chemical reaction and eventually gets used up so no sense in wasting the action on what can be removed quickly. I've used in on small tanks but for a large one go with the other ideas here. I've seen something from Rusoleum or WD in the same style jug but I'm not sure if it's the same stuff.
I tried a gallon on my rusted pistons on the 2606 and it didn't really work.
Vinegar is a 4% acetic acid which is a weak acid.
When I was cleaning my tanks before getting it lined, I used Muratic acid which can be bot at Ace and the big box stores in the paint section. It is a strong hydrochloric acid. Since I was doing it with the tank on the tractor, I typically poured a gallon into the bottom of the tank where the worst rust is, then filled it up with water and let it sit overnight. Mine kept rusting every couple years and I think one time I used 2 gallons.
That said, muratic acid will clean the tank bright and shiny but then you have to coat it with something to keep it from rusting again. Something with phosphoric acid in it coats the metal to keep it from rusting. I used to spray clean metal with WD40 but not sure how well it worked since I never could get enough in to coat the whole tank.
Don't leave muratic/hydrochloric acid laying around the shop in an open can. It puts off vapors that will make other stuff rust.
Mike(NEOhio)
Well-known Member
- Location
- Newbury, Ohio
I forgot to add that I degrease first with an overnight soak in PP. It's also temperature dependent, works faster when it's warm.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
I've used it on a rusted gas tank. It works, but it's expensive. You either need enough of it to fill the tank (very expensive) or a way to position the tank in various ways to allow it to work on bits of the tank at a time.
Obviously there is something to be said for not having to deal with acid. You can put your bare hands directly into evapo rust.
Obviously there is something to be said for not having to deal with acid. You can put your bare hands directly into evapo rust.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
I bought the most concentrated phosphoric acid off Amazon. It was food grade. Think 85% concentration, not 100% sure.
Definitely sure it stinks like most rust removers.
Rust is red. Iron is more black
So when metal turns dark, rust is converted to back to iron, steel
George.
Definitely sure it stinks like most rust removers.
Rust is red. Iron is more black
So when metal turns dark, rust is converted to back to iron, steel
George.
Uncle murph
Member
Ive had good luck using electrolysis,just fill the tank with electrolyte,and I do mean full to the cap,attach the ground to the tank and suspend your rebar electrode in the solution with the positive clamp. I had a absolutely horrible Ferguson tank with all those darn baffles in it and electrolysis cleaned it up fine.
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