(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

Best vintage tractor for towing 5t wagon

W

Wolverine77

New User
Just moved to the country from suburbs. Bought a 10 acre parcel. Also have 3 kids. Kids want a wagon for hay rides for them and friends. Wife wants flexibility with wagon to haul wood, brush, etc. Won't be hauling hay. Have a 5T running gear and am in process of building a wagon bed on it. Seems like it will weigh around 1000 lbs without load, up to 2500 max load on it (trailer size will be 6x10). Curious what type of vintage tractor I want that will be able to pull it. Land is fairly flat, minimal hills. Looking to spend no more than 2k on old tractor since I already have money tied up in garden tractor for the lawn (which won't be up for this job). Thanks for any replies, as I'm new to all of this.
 
Brakes.

A lot of old tractors didnt have very good brakes when new, and nearly non existent now 40-70 years later.

About anything will pull a wagon, you likely want some decent gear speeds to go not too fast but still get there, and you want good brakes.

Any other use for it, loader work or ever any 3pt work? Old tractors without a 3pt are often cheaper, $900 even, but then you are on a small spread where folk always
seem to find use for three point equipment.......

Paul
 
3020 / 4020
cvphoto85665.jpg

3020 and d1000 baler the baler weighs 9600 without hay in it I
can stop it dead in a second
cvphoto85666.jpg

This load crossed the certified
scales at 22600 no problem stopping it either
 
Wolverine welcome to YT! Here are some options from the
IH Farmall lineup I would recommend, because they have
live hydraulics and PTOs only thing that they dont come
with that can be desirable is a 3 point hitch. Live in this
case if you do not know means that they continue to
function even if the tractor driving gears are stopped with
the clutch pushed down. The models are 300, 350, 400,
450 and 460. These are a range of 35 to 50 horsepower
tractors. I will attach a link to Tractordata.com so you can
take a look at the specs and see a photo of each one by clicking the model number.
Data link
 
SV, you must have missed the budget number he gave. You know as well as I do no running 3020 or 4020 sells for $2000. Unless you would be kind enough to let him purchase yours for that money. 8>)
 
I would second what used red said and also add a few to that
list including the Farmall H, M, Super H, and Super M. All of
which would do the task described but be somewhat less
suitable for other tasks. On that note you could also consider
the McCormick Deering W-4, W-6, and W-9 and their
descendants. There are a number of other brands that will
work, a lot will depend on what is common in your area. Best
of luck on the hunt and please be careful - kids, tractors, and
people who arent familiar with them can be a recipe for
disaster
 
I agree with Paul Most old tractors have bad or no brake and you need brake if your pulling a hayride. You did not say
if you are having the hay ride on the farm or the road. If your going on the road you need flashing light on the back.
I would not go on the road to many people on cell phones and not looking for slow vehicles. We had a Minneapolis
Moline ZA that had dam good brakes. The brakes were not on the drive axel but ahead of the bull gears. they had a big
mechanical advantage. What ever you do enjoy the kids it's the best time of your life.
 
There are many very good brands of old
tractors that will do THAT particular job
for you. And yes, you can get a good one
for $2K.
But if you get a tractor that does not have
Factory 3 point hitch you will be sorry
forever after.
A 3 point hitch doubles the kinds of
attachments you can use and things you can
use the tractor for.
You likely won't get a decent one for $2K
however.
You could for double that amount.
Wait, save up and hold out for one!
 
Im sure sv was telling you guys that the John deere tractors can an will stop with there brake just as good as others. I will put any of my john deeres against any of your farmalls in a brake test. Take your pick. A,b,h,l,mt ar for your test. I will be at that tractor show in MN in June that's on 95. Also iv drove a lot of farmall m an h and alot of times to stop you needed to stand on the brakes to stop. Al tho I can see you saying about to buy the farmall tr actors because there always under 2000 to buy.
 
IMHO, A good safe tractor for the job would be a Ford 8N. They are plentiful and can be found in your price range. Low profile, 3 point hitch, anyone can drive it, not too fast but will get you there and parts can be
found almost anywhere. However as stated before brakes are always an issue with most vintage tractors. The brakes can and will work BUT they will not work like most newer models. They are strictly mechanical
with no power assist. For safetys sake, when using vintage tractors for a hay ride, you should drive like you dont have brakes. In other words give your self plenty of time to stop and an escape route, should you
need one. Slow down way before you would driving a car. Besides the idea of a hay ride is a slow peaceful drive through the country side. Be safe. Have fun in the country.
 
I had an idea as I read the thread. Suppose you replaced the rear wagon axle with one from a trailer with electric brakes. You could add a 12V battery
and A brake control and you wouldn't need to rely on the tractor brakes. Any farmer could do that.....
 
JD, I get what you are saying about the brake deal and you will get no argument from me, I have been around some new gen Deeres. Now if you try to convince me that a two banger with a hand clutch is handier to operate than an old Farmall you will probably get some backlash out of me.
 


Obvious answer is Ford 8N. As you get to shopping around you will soon see why. There is just so much utility and it is in a compact far more user friendly layout than most others. There are others that are similar, like a JD-1020 or Oliver 55 but the Ford sold in such overwhelming numbers and there are so many still in use that parts availability is far better than any other. Look also for a Ford 900 or 901. If you are going to be out there with the family you may as well be on the not only most useful but also the best looking! While constructing your wagon be sure to put aluminum flashing over your cross members to protect them from the weather. Your 6'x10' size while small is adequate for the family but consider what else you may want to use it for.
 
3Pt equipment is over rated. By the time you finish wrestling it a around to get it hitched up, your to tired out to bother with it. A Live PTO hydraulics and power steering, will be more usable and practical as he uses the tractor. And later on will want a loader for lifting and moving things for landscaping. Your sorry N series fords will not a loader make. No Power steering and with a loader is about impossible to steer. Besides they weigh in at the feather weight. Lots of better models and makes for his job with more ease of use. I suggest he saves his pennies till he can afford one of them. Like the 50 series IH even into the 74 models like a 574. Deere 2030 Allis get past the W models like the WD and WD45 move into the D models or a bit newer. Massey in the 50or so and newer. Oliver about the 1500 and up. This should give a good spectrum of choices and of course the Cases in the 30 models with the comfort king vintage or there about's. Older will suffer from lack of availability of some of the things that will make work less difficult and will be somewhat clumsy and cumbersome in some models. Parts support will be the main thing to look at. And yes a loader will be wanted before you will even know it. Plowing snow if in that climate plowing gardens or moving dirt and mulch for yard work.
 
Wolverine77 what you might try is to look for tractors in your area at your price point and then ask about them here. There are many good tractors and there are things to look at when buying them.

For any tractor you ask about, you will get good and bad points and thoughts on the price. It would also help if we new your general location.
 
Well I'm sorry about saying things about the farmalls. With work on all tractors they can an will have good brakes. When I work for my uncle the farmall h was the weakest one he had. It did make a lot of fan noise when u had to shift. The little a was fun to drive but the m was better buy far and the 450 was nice. I'm thinking that if this fella wants a safe good tractor to be like the others say on here to save up and get one that's newer. If he knows how to work on a older tractor then that's ok an if not he needs a manual on it.
 
I'll add my two cents.... Ferguson 35. Similar to an 8N in size but has live PTO. Lots of parts, and info, available. Whatever you decide to look at, take along a buddy that knows tractors when you shop. Although there are deals if you're patient, a 2K budget will likely get something with either an issue or a tractor that is a bear to use. Like Ultradog said, get one with a 3PT hitch. Opens up a whole new world of handy. Good luck
 
Allis Chalmers WD or WD45 they had good brakes for their era will lock the rear wheels plus they have power enough to pull the wagon up a hill. They can also be bought reasonable.Just bought a good looking WD in good shape for $500.
 
3 point over rated??
By whom?
3 point is Not over rated by EVERY manufacturer in the world today - or in the last 50 or so years.
Show me a drawbar tractor that can do this right off the factory floor with a simple, inexpensive attachment.

cvphoto85679.jpg
 
Yes but I aint going to crank my neck to use that jig to move no dirt. I have farmed without 3 point for ever. I have a 3 point now and have used it all of 5 times in 5 years. I push snow as it dont hurt my neck. I use a loader to lift and level everything. Only thing that I can think where 3 point is a must is if you do row crop. I would way rather have a trail behind cultivator than a 3 point. Yes I agree some people love and use there 3 point but it is over rated. When I was 20 and worked for a farmer I thought everything should be 3 point. When I aged I found it a real pain in th neck to fight with or turn around to see what you are doing. Just easier to back up drop a pin and go. A loader is worth 100 times a 3 point.
 
Nobody mentioned 1650 cockshutt. I now have 2. $1200 for one running and another for $1000
with loader. 2 make 1 good one. Brakes are good when adjusted and tractor is heavy enough to
do something. You already have your lawn and garden equipment so you are not looking for
something smalll for that job. There are other if case brand like 730 that would also work. Forget
about those light weight 8n fords. You need a loader for those 10 acres more than you need. 3
point. Like someone else mentioned,see what is available for your price and come ask the pros
and cons. Good luck.
 
[i:654c4848f0]loader is worth 100 times a 3 point.[/i:654c4848f0]

I spoke only about having a 3 point.
I didn't say anything about a loader.
Yes a loader is very handy.
They also tend to make a clumsy behemoth out of a tractor, especially one without power steering. And they are neither simple nor inexpensive.
 
I too would go with a Ford 8n or a 9n with a few caveats:

1) Make sure the brakes work!

Fords tend to leak gear lube out of the rear axle into the brakes. There are seals that cure this. An greasy, grimy, but easy and cheap fix.

2) Dont use a 3 point hitch drawbar!

Get a tractor with the optional (and common) drawbar assembly that bolts solidly under the tractor. There are two types, either a straight back one position
type, or a swinging affair that and can be swung to either side, if you get the latter, simply put bolts on either side of it in its guide plate so it cant
move.
The problem with the three point drawbar type tow hitch is that it can raise up unexpectedly when the trailer momentum is greater than the tractor that is
pulling it. That is because there is no down pressure in the early Ford three point hydraulic system. This can cause the hitch to come undone and give the hay
riders a wilder ride than they bargained for and possibly give the tractor operator an unwanted mechanical back rub he'll never forget!

Sure, you can get bolt-on stay bars that will hold the three point hitch type draw bar rigidly in place, but they are a pain to remove and re-attach when you
want to use the lift for other jobs with other implements. Sooner or later, you'll stop using them when you should.

Of course, if you buy 2 tractors...
 
Lucky finds are not indicative of the overall market for a particular tractor model.

Cockshutts, especially the Oliver-built ones, are RARE, highly sought after tractors. The cheap ones are gone before the ink dries on the ad, so you've got to be in the right place at the right time with a stack of $100s in your pocket to get a deal like that.
 
I think you could have a problem finding an older tractor for $2k that doesn't need another $2k to fix it up. If there is anything needing fixing when you get it the cost adds up fast. Do you have some
mechanical skills for repairs if needed? A lot of old tractors have been fixed up but they don't sell for under $2k.
 
Personally I don't care for a 3 pt hitch - liked the 2 point a lot better but we all know what happened to that. For implements for small tractors 3pt may be your only option these days.
 
Numerous comments about the tractor, and that'll go on for a long time, but I'm concerned about the wagon. Those farm wagon
running gears are pretty tough to back up unless you have the knack. They are far different than a standard single or
double axle trailer.

Couple things to consider:

1) Get and use a standard trailer for general purpose use. They are generally smaller and easier to maneuver. My dad had
an old pick-up truck box type trailer (short box from the 50's) that we built bench seats over the sides. Hosted many rides
out in the woods with that.

2) A tractor with a 3 point can be outfitted with a carry-all set of forks. Building a 3-sided wood box on this can allow
riders to ride along on some cushions, and also haul around wood & tools as you head to the woods. As others mentioned,
pull a trailer/wagon from a draw bar, and not the three point system. They generally have a lot of side-to-side sway, and
unless outfitted correctly, can collapse upwards when trying to stop a trailer, and the trailer is pushing on the tractor.

Older tractors are nice, but you have to be a reasonable mechanic to keep up with them, and finding the corner garage that
works on them is getting tougher to find if you're not a fair mechanic.

Enjoy your new property !
 
Allis Chalmers WD or WD-45. WDs can be had for less than 45 as everybody wants a 45. They have excellent brakes.
 
You've said it all Paul. No way in the world I'd put somebody with no tractor experience on some old narrow front tractor with mechanical brakes. He'd better set his sights about $10,000 higher and get something with a wide front and hydraulic brakes or forget the whole project. This whole idea of putting a bunch of kids on a wagon with some old broken down piece of junk tractor is a mass funeral and jail time for man slaughter, in the making.
 
Prices of old tractors is up in the short term but are on a long term downward trend. If you can wait a year or two you might get much more tractor for your $2K than you can right now.

Will your tractor be used on the road or will it stay on your ten acres? Either way good brakes are important, but in road gear they are really important.

Almost any vintage tractor can do what you described. Condition of the tires ($1000 plus) and the tractor are more important than the brand or the model. I would look for an independent PTO as you will likely need to do some spraying and heavy mowing for weed and brush control on ten acres.

Do you have a lot of trees and low branches? A lower utility tractor might be better than a tall row crop tractor.
 
Lots of good answers here. But,if you have to ask,that tells me you are currently 'out of your leage'. An M/400/450 Farmall;JD 2 cylinder;Olivers;AllisChalmers all make good
candidates. Dont buy something too small. That would be the 'tail wagging the dog.It doesn't take much power to pull a wagon. sufficient weight,and more importanly,dependable BRAKES
are of prime importance.IMHO,You will be better served with something newer,from the '60s. The Jds pictured would serve you well and be useful for your other work too.Hoewver,it
will cost between 5 and 10,000 dollars.Better to find a good candidate and ask our opinion,just too many models out ther to make a recomendation. Everyone has a favorite that they
think is best.
 
well i may as well put my 5 cents in also. you want a smaller tractor but not too small. i see a lot of tractors here i would not recommend
for a beginner. you want easy on and off, handy, safety. plus something easy on fuel. i vote you go with the W4 mccormick. nice little units
with lots of power. easy to work on and dont cost a fortune. i would not trust those j. d. hand clutches around kids. i have been to tractor
shows and have seen them sitting in the line up running in gear with just the clutch pulled back. if some kid decided to get on and just push
the clutch and away he goes, who knows the outcome.
cvphoto85691.jpg
 
well i may as well put my 5 cents in also. you want a smaller tractor but not too small. i see a lot of tractors here i would not recommend
for a beginner. you want easy on and off, handy, safety. plus something easy on fuel. i vote you go with the W4 mccormick. nice little units
with lots of power. easy to work on and dont cost a fortune. i would not trust those j. d. hand clutches around kids. i have been to tractor
shows and have seen them sitting in the line up running in gear with just the clutch pulled back. if some kid decided to get on and just push
the clutch and away he goes, who knows the outcome.
cvphoto85691.jpg
 

In the 50s Dad had a 38 John Deere A, and 36 John Deere B. We had a 8 x 16 foot rack on a home made gear from some auto. Loaded it with wire tie bales from a Oliver number 8 baler, five high and either tractors brakes would hold that load anywhere up the bridge going up into the barns upper story.
 
The more I think about it, raise your budget up to the $5000 range and look for a Deere 1020 or 2020. They're a low utility, wide
front, three point and have hydraulic brakes, 12 volt electric so you can easily rig lights on the wagon if you have a hay ride on
the road. Don't confuse them with a 1010 or 2010 though. Entirely different tractors.
 
Thank you everyone for the comments. To answer a few follow up questions, I live in southern MN, an hour north of the Iowa line. The wagon wouldn't leave the property or travel on public roads. It'd be primarily used on our two driveways and through some flat open back acreage. We already have a JD X728 with snowblower attachment so this second tractor doesn't necessarily need a front end attachment for snow, although I take your points on how people discover they might want other attachments for various things. We've been here just a few months and I see the limits of the X728. Perhaps I should have bought a subcompact JD rather than the X728, but at the time, I didn't realize my kids would suddenly be so passionate about a wagon for a ride and I knew I wanted the 4WD that the X728 offers. I've been told that the X728 can tow around 1000 pounds, but it seems like that would handle the weight of the wagon, but not anything on it, hence my initial question. Thanks again.
 
Being an experiential and highly visual learner, I'd recommend this:

Go to an event with a tractor ride and see how the wagon and tractor interact and the respective sizes of each. I am sure you've been on a tractor ride before, but it's not an everyday thing and maybe it's been more than a few years.

I think it would benefit you to have that experience before putting a rig together on your own and maybe looking at everything for the first time.

I have no suggestions in the way of tractors; hooking up my Massey to a people-hauler wouldn't be a good idea. In excellent shape it would be ok but it is far from that.

Gerrit
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Allis Chalmers vintage petal wagon tractor
Replies
2
Views
478
ESVADuke
E
S
Nice small Loader tractor for Round bales, 5x6 & Misc Farm Work
Replies
11
Views
442
SamV
S
R
Looking for advise on tractor purchase
Replies
12
Views
707
jm.
jm.
A
New Holland 10 10 bale wagon bale pickup issues
Replies
8
Views
483
Bud Sather in MT
B
K
need small tractor engine hauled wisconsin to minneapolis
Replies
1
Views
108
Jim.ME
J
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top