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Float valve sticking problems

J

JAG5876

New User
I have had float valve sticking problems for years on my tractor carbs. Seems like all the time since the valve has had the rubber tip put on them. Yes I have adjusted the float, made sure it isn't rubbing and made sure it is clean. I have cleaned the fuel lines, fittings and fuel bowls. And still the valve sticks even with new valve and seat parts. I wish I could find the old all metal valves! I now see a listing for non stick valve parts on e-bay, has anyone tried these yet? Its kinda had to get any farming done with jumping of the tractor every 5 minutes to tap the carburetor.
 
All the rubber tipped one I get have the little spring in the kit so that they cannot stick. So are you buy the cheap kits with out the spring or leaving the spring off of them??
 
well i dont know what kind of tractor carb kits you are buying? there is no such thing on those springs in ihc carbs. i have put kits in a lot of G.M. carbs and they have that spring that pulls the needle open when the float drops. the needle needs to be cleaned with spray carb cleaner or brake clean that's suitable for rubber. there is some kind of coating on it that makes it stick, from my experimenting.
 
That is not typically a problem with a running engine. Sticking from sitting with a bowl full of E10, yes it happens, but that is from evaporation leaving residue behind. That is the problem the non stick needles are addressing.

I wonder if there might be another problem, like low fuel flow. I assume this is gravity flow, no fuel pump. And we are talking sticking shut, not flooding.

Is the tank vented? Try loosening the cap see if that helps. Even though the cap may say vented, it doesn't mean it really is or it may be clogged with a bug nest.

Have you done a flow test on the carb? With the engine off, fuel valve on, remove the drain plug, see how it flows. Should have a full flow, not slow to a drip or stop. If insufficient flow, start tracking back to the tank to find the restriction.

Are there any inline filters? They don't work well with gravity systems. If you feel it needs a filter, use the screen type, not a paper.

What type fuel line is on it? Should be a steel line, not copper. It needs to be the most direct down hill route possible and still kept away from the exhaust as far as practical.
 
Searched Walker carb kits and do not find any listed for IH Farmall H or M etc. Just the little tractors with Zenith or Marvel Schebler Carburetors etc.
 
I buy them all the time at my local O'Reilly's and they have them for the H and M etc. Have a carb off an H that has a kit put in it that was walker
 
That is interesting as I have never seen a needle and seat with the spring for H-M on up the line all the way to the 856 .
 
Well u better get some proof on here , there is no such thing. I want see how you hook that spring up.
 
Dont B S an old IHC mechanic. Im laughing now. Come on get ur spring set up pictures ! Not even possible if you would even think about it.
 
He might be thinking of the spring clip that holds the needle to the float so the float pulls it open. My dc has that.
 
That is exactly what I have been talking about. If the float needle spring clip is installed if the float drops so does the needle since the spring clip pull the needle down with it
 
i know exactly what he is referring to as i said i have done lots of GM carbs with that spring. you would need a pretty big spring here. plus look how the needle is made. i have never seen them any different to accept a spring. and i have had piles of these carbs apart.
cvphoto84810.jpg
 
That is not like my case dc carb. Mine has a retainer that hooks the valve to the float. The carb in my swather has the same clip. Case motor there too.
 
yes i know what he is talking about, but i want to see his picture of the ihc carbs that have that. i have a DC also. no such thing in ihc carbs.
 
yes i know. i know all about that spring . i am saying ihc does not have or use that spring. so i want to see olds pictures of what he is bsing about ihc using springs.
 
Yes that is it and the carb kits I buy have that in them. Not and IH part but sure as heck works but rustedred has to attack me every chance he gets just to be his bad self
 
Here's the kit I put in my Super M, nice looking kit, lots of parts. The first kit was a Tisco from Farm/Fleet. the seat wasn't machined, took it back for another, the needle wouldn't go in the seat. Junk.
There was no clip or spring in this kit though and don't see how it could work.
cvphoto84823.jpg


cvphoto84824.jpg
 
Wow, this subject really wakes people up. Maybe more info would help. This is on a restored Farmall A tractor with a Marvel Schebler carb. The valve is sticking shut and not allowing fuel into the carb. With the valve installed open and the float down the gas flows and fills the carb and shuts but will not reopen unless tapped. The tank is clean and the fuel bowl and steel lines are new. With the carb in my hand I drop the valve into the seat ( both new) and when I turn the carb over the valve stays in place until I tap the carb. I have seen springs on some valves but not on any of the IHC I have had. The valves have no place to hook a spring to. I am going to check out the Walker parts line to see what is available. The parts I am purchasing are from Tractor Supply. Thanks to all that replied.
 
i was wondering what carb u have, before things got heated up. i know ihc carbs have no spring for the needle valve. some people might be convinced by hearsay on stuff when unsure, but i like to see the actual proof, and the actual carb would have been nice to know also. so as i said the needle and seat needs to be cleaned good with spray carb cleaner to get the coating off. after that it will be good. i have had the same problems.
 
we are talking ihc carbs here not case stuff . i am showing my international carb for the proof, same as on most ihc tractors and never was a spring for the needle.
 
Try your in hand test again with the valve installed backwards. If it still sticks you could try lightly sanding the 3 edges of the valve then test again.
 
i have no problem at all with any info as long as it is correct. and yes anyone can make a mistake even me and i will acknowledge mine if wrong. you just dont give up and not a once can admit when proved wrong. when i read stuff saying one size of pants fits everybody and for all applications i will post the correct info if i know it. as for attacks ,... you refuse even the correct info from the ihc mechanic that has more knowledge from his years of hands on experience right to the point which is nice to read on here. that type of information is worth 100 times more than what a person reads in a lot of the guess's in a lot of posts. i will correct you every time i see your fake fixes. if you have done and seen it all, then you should have no problem to post the correct stuff.
 
Does the needle stick up far enough for you to put a groove in it which would allow it to use the spring others are talking about? I would guess you could make the groove by
putting the needle in a drill press chuck and hold a hacksaw or file against it to cut the groove. It probably would not need to be precise.
 
its not the sides that stick,... its the rubber tip that sticks. there is room on the sides and it is not a tight fit.
 
Why not? It's only the float valve and no air passes there. If there is enough length I don't see why that won't work. They use that type on the W6 carb I believe. I'm not familiar with formal carbs and don't know how close what he has and the W6 are.
 
no room, i posted w6 carb needle is pretty much flush with the seat. guess i got to tear apart the carb i just worked on today and get you more pictures.
 
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