Farmall m 4&5 gear pulley replacement

Hey Im replacing the 4&5 gear pulley on my 1949Farmall M tractor never did anything like this before. I got the transmission cover off(after many days) and discovered l dont have enough room to slide the pulley off??? Do I need to separate the tractor??? Where do I separate it? At the Clutch or right in front of the transmission case? Thanks!

The clutch shaft can be taken out from underneath (after the removal of the Belly pump). Take pictures to assure it goes back
together. Remove the front transmission bearing carrier. (be careful with the pilot bearing rollers they can all drop out)
The sliding gear should be able to slide off forward. The gear (is not a pulley by the way) is often damaged internally
where it slides onto the input shaft splines (fifth gear is direct). The input shaft splines where the 4th 5th slider engages
is also a wear point that should be addressed. A new input shaft is required to repair this. Good luck, you need a blue
ribbon repair manual. Jim

Do I need to drain any fluids Bfore removing the belly pump? Thanks for the information couldnt do without it.

Jonas welcome to YT! I would suggest to drain the belly pump ..Lift-all.. pump before you pull it. That way if it tips on you once you have it out you wont have a big spill puddle. The pipe fittings that screw in the housing will have to be removed, one on the right and two on the left ..everything on a tractor is referred to as you would setting in the seat.. and the lever on the right will have to be removed. Be careful use a floor jack to lower it down it is heavy. You will also have to get the drive ..puck.. lined up so it can slide down, this is accessed through a removable plate underneath. It drives off the front of the lower transmission shaft. I can send you a link to a scanned copy of an early IH service manual for your tractor. Just view this in ..Classic View.. and my email is in the lower right. The manual does not give detailed step by step to do this task. It is written for someone with mechanical experience or maybe even assumes you were trained by IH to work on the tractors but there is a lot of need to know info in it. My tractor is a 48 M been in the circle of relatives since new. Here is a picture of it. I have a hood on it now and this was before I got the Horndraulic trip loader cylinders on and hooked up to the live hydraulic pump. By the way you are working on only ..gears.. the name pulley refers to an item that operates with a belt, like fan or water pump pulley.. I will also attach a link to the current companies parts site that own the International name sake as of now. It will hopefully open to the M transmission parts page. But you should be able to navigate back to all the parts sections for your tractor. Now granted they no longer carry a lot of parts for those tractors and in quite a few cases if they do they are priced high. However, I should also say that YT carries a lot of parts for your tractor, infact they probably have the gears you a looking to replace. I think I looked it up a while back because I need to do the same to mine because it pops out of 5th gear. Good luck!

Oops, forgot to add the CNHI parts page. BTW if you are viewing on a phone, clicking the little square picture icon on the bottom right toggles you to the parts picture diagram. On a PC I think they show both the diagram and parts list together.
M trans parts page

When I was taking the transmission cover off (a while back) I didnt know the 2 bolts that run through the belt pulley gear box hold the cover and I GUESSWHAT broke the covercould I use glue or something to seal it or should I buy another one ???

If it is a clean break and you super clean it with spray brake cleaner and let it dry, you can use JB weld to glue the chunk back on. You will need 2 long pipe clamps to make it a tight glue job. JB weld is a 2 part epoxy with molecules of metal in it. Follow the directions and clamp it tight. The clamps (2 of them to do it right) come with no 3/4 inch pipe. You will need two pipes at least 6 inches longer than the cover is long so you can clamp the length 4 footers is probably OK, but check! The pipes need 3/4 pipe thread on at least one end each to thread into the clamp. Jim
the Glue

the clamps

Oh boy Lol!! Sorry, probably not funny to you. Looks like you should have come here and ask some questions back then. I personally could not set a tractor and drive it knowing it has a major part on it I broke. And as you can see my tractor is no cream puff. Where about do you live, maybe someone has one near you or can recommend a tractor salvage near you to get one. Here is a YT member map. A poster here maintains it purely as a service to posters here. It has no affiliation with the owners of Yesterdays Tractor. And only the members that request to be shown are on there. I would guess maybe two thirds are there. You better email me for that manual for sure!!
YT member map

The break is right underneath where the belt pulley gear box belongs so it wouldnt take much to seal it

Notice that the drive cross that runs the hydraulic pump will need to have one side vertical to be able to slide apart.

After the belly pump is out you will need to take loose the coupler between the clutch shaft and the transmission input shaft.
The bolts are tapered on the side next to the nut and you may have to tap them loose. Be careful because they are not available
new!

With the coupler out you will then need to take the pressure plate on the clutch loose. There is not enough room for the clutch
shaft to slide all the way out with only the coupler gone. The throwout bearing support also needs to come loose. With those two
loose you can move the clutch shaft enough to the side that it will pull out. The pressure plate doesn't need to come all the
way off, just loose enough to let go of the disk. Note that you may also need to remove the throwout bearing fork and shaft in
order to move the throwout bearing support. It's been a while since I've been into one and can't remember for sure. It will be
obvious once you get that far into it.

Now you have room to unbolt the input shaft assembly from the front of the rear case and take it out through the bottom of the
torque tube. Then you will be able to remove 4/5 sliding gear from the main shaft.

Check the input shaft assembly for excessive play in the bearings, also the pilot bearing which will either be inside the end of
the input shaft or on the end of the main shaft. (two possible variations)
This is the time to replace those bearings and both the input shaft seal and the countershaft seal if they are starting to leak.
If the bearings are loose it will still leak even with a new seal.

Im brand new to this is the pressure plate the big round thing