706 farmall TA delete or repair?

My 706 is leaking out the bottom in the clutch area hydraulic fluid I suspect front transmission seal it was sitting up for 30 years before I got it the ta works but should I replace it or delete it since it doesnt work hard just a little mowing

Fix it. You wouldn't castrate your bull just because you have a few cows!

Look where the leak is happening. You may need to change the gaskets or replace the fluid hose. This is not such a difficult problem.

I agree, don't throw the baby out with the bathwater. You've got a leaky seal and the TA works. With light use it will almost certainly continue to work for a good long time. Fix the seal. Leave the TA alone.

If the TA didn't work I'd still say fix the TA rather than delete it. It's a one-time deal. Unless you put the tractor back to work plowing day in and day out all spring, running the forage harvester in the fall, etc., your grandchildren won't be able to wear the TA out.

Thats what I was hoping to hear now find that leak right

Replacing working components and lowering the usability, resale value, and costing as much as a rebuilt TA (if you can find the delete parts) just doesn't pencil out well. Jim

Wow! That's quite an analogy!!

Your leak is the two seals on the IDPTO and the transmission input that shaft is part of the T/A . NOW IF the T/A will grab while loading the brakes in say high 3 or 4 then there is NOTHING wrong with it . Doing a T/A delete costs within a couple hundred bucks of just installing a new T/A . By deleting you just lost around 1500 bucks resale even with a bad T/A . I bought a sharp 856 once that never had a factory T/A's and so did a buddy for resale , thought i was going to have to marry it to get rid of it and was worried about shipping fever from all the miles i was hauled around to sales , ended up having to buy a rag 706 with everything i needed to install a T/A in . Now hee is what ya need to solve your leak. You will need two seals and O/Ring and maybe a new IDPTO input shaft bearing oil slinger as they never came with one but as and after market item ya can get from Hy Cap and maybe a new clutch assembly pilot bearing and throw out bearing . When the pressure plate splines get wore and the splines on the IDPTO shaft ware this allwos the input to start floppen around and the input bearing gets a little loose they start throwing Hy Tran out . For me it is about a three to four hour job . If you have to go with a new clutch then the flywheel needs refaced .

(quoted from post at 05:01:28 04/06/21) My 706 is leaking out the bottom in the clutch area hydraulic fluid I suspect front transmission seal it was sitting up for 30 years before I got it the ta works but should I replace it or delete it since it doesnt work hard just a little mowing

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Splitting the tractor AHEAD of the transmission to fix what's wrong (the leak) is EASY compared to also splitting it BEHIND the transmission and removing the countershaft and then the TA.

The first (easy) split doesn't even get you halfway to replacing (or deleting) the TA.

Since you use the tractor "for just a little mowing" and you state that the TA is in working order adding the second split to the needed repair doesn't seem necessary to me at this time.

But it's your tractor, time, and $$$!

Not sure if Ill try it or send it out it leaks even when its sitting up not a lot bu a half gallon or so a couple weeks oil is to high to pour it out my book says its easy and fast to split the tractor somehow I doubt its either

If ya have splitting stands it is easy Plus i can not tell how many 706's i have split over the years . Ya know you have done a couple when ya can walk up to the tool box and gather up everything ya need for the job the first trip . I have two sets of stands , one is the big set same as the dealers have and my portables that now with OLD age are not as PORTABLE as they once were along with either jack stands or wood blocks and a 6-8 ton bottle jack , pull th hood muffler and side panels , un hook fuel oil cooler lines pull the temp gauge prob undo the steering lines and engine wiring harness , i do not even drain the water out unless it has a cab and heater and i can not shut off the water valves i have a plug for the temp gauge prob that if your FAST ya don't loose a cup of coolant. Make the split and roll the ft about three to four feet ahead pull the clutch rrelease shaft and throw out bearing and a 9/16 socket and long extension and four bolts you are at the problem . Now you did say that it is even dripping when parked HUMMMMMMMm that might be coming from the bottom bearing cap on the lower PTo shaft , Might be just loose and before ya split drop the inspection cover off the bottom of the bellhousing and have a look as it is right there .

Oh come on doing a double split is NOT that flippen hard . And getting the bottom shaft out is a piece of cake ---------------when ya have the tools to work with and my bottom shaft removal tool .

(quoted from post at 17:55:55 04/06/21) Oh come on doing a double split is NOT that flippen hard . And getting the bottom shaft out is a piece of cake ---------------when ya have the tools to work with and my bottom shaft removal tool .

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I wish you weren't across the country from me, I need to do a TA in an "anteater" this summer.

Could use some help!