I have a 3D72 3-cylinder Yanmar engine that loses a small amount of coolant, and gets too hot even at a fast idle. The radiator has been flow tested, and everything appears clear. I bought the old stand by, K&W block seal, but the sealer had solidified in the bottom of the can so bad I could not mix it. Can #2, same thing. What block/head gasket sealer have any of you used that works? I see on line prices that blow your mind, and of course all of them are The best you can buy.
- Thread starter Jerrycpp
- Start date
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
I use Bar-leak copper or the Bar-leak black pellet type
Thank you, Old. Bars Leak was my second choice. In the days of cracked-block-Ford-flatheads, K&W beat out Bars by a little bit. Not everyone knows that in the summer of 1950, the submarine Nautilus was on a secret mission to go over the North Pole, submerged. As they prepared to leave Seattle, they detected a tiny leak in the nuclear reactor's condenser. That would scrub the mission, so the captain sent several of his officers into Seattle with enough cash to buy a large amount of Bars Leak. They added it to the coolant, and the rest is history. https://barsleaks.com/general/bars-leaks-and-the-historic-1958-uss-nautilus-mission/
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Back when I was in the Navy I could look at the Nautilus most every day of the week. It was tied up at the Groton CT sub base where I was stationed
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
When clear silicone hit the market in the early 70s a friend had a Ford pinto, I think, it had an aluminum head. Overhead valves. and cast iron block. Under warranty Ford replacement head gasket 2x. Friend replace head gasket for the third time. He applied a very thin layer of silicon to a felpro head gasket. Waited 30 minutes before installing gasket. It never leaked again. George
Phil-mar Farms
Member
My dads reason for using Barrs
Tracy Brown
Member
What ever you use, if it will stop a leak, it will also stop up your radiator(from first hand experience). The last time I used some, I bypassed my radiator by using a 15 gallon sprayer tank. Your machine, you do what you want.
The radiator was tested at a reputable radiator shop. The water pump isn't leaking, but I know there is a possibility the impeller is loose, broken, or too worn to do the job. None of the pumps I've found on line look like this one. I'm thinking this machine was made in Japan for their domestic market. So far no one has been able to positively identify the engine, and even the machine seems to be an orphan.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
If it has mystery coolant loss, steam out the exhaust, coolant blowing out the radiator even before it gets hot, those are signs of combustion gases entering the cooling jacket.
Typically a head gasket, cracked head, or pinhole in a cylinder liner.
Stop leak will not stop that kind of leak.
There is a kit that will test for combustion leaks. Many shops have them or buy one, they are not terribly expensive. That will tell you if there is an internal leak, or a circulation problem.
Combustion Leak Detector
Typically a head gasket, cracked head, or pinhole in a cylinder liner.
Stop leak will not stop that kind of leak.
There is a kit that will test for combustion leaks. Many shops have them or buy one, they are not terribly expensive. That will tell you if there is an internal leak, or a circulation problem.
Combustion Leak Detector
dr sportster
Well-known Member
Moroso ceramic engine sealer
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
Kopper Koat or Copper Coat, forget which...the K is an attention getter to help you remember if K is the proper letter...realizing C is the correct letter for the American version of the Bloke yak! Any auto parts store should carry it. I have used it for years and never once had a call back on any type of engine used. I like it in the spray can. Shake the can really good to get the copper off the bottom of the can and into the vehicle solution. Spray both sides till tyou get a solid copper color. Put her on, torque to spec using the X pattern in most any repair manual, install your valve train, set your valves cold, install your valve cover, fill it with oil and forget it ever happened. Never had to go back for head to retorque nor reset valves..................and here comes the biggie......make a big mess all over your nice, clean, painted, gorgeous, restoration!
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