Farmhand F11 loader

JBaldwin

New User
I have a new to me Farmhand F11 loader that leaks like a sieve. I am looking to buy a cylinder rebuild kit online since the nearest dealer is 2 hours away and can't be bothered to answer any questions by phone.

Does anyone have pictures or dimensions to distinguish which series loader I have, A,B,C,D etc? Most of the paint is gone and I haven't located a serial number yet. Thanks in advance, James.
 
90% of loder cylinders can be rebuilt by hydraulic shops. With the cylinder taken in they will (or should) also sell you the parts over the counter.
Even if we knew the model letter, the cylinders are likely to be designed ofr apressure rating and/or may have been replaced. If you take them apart,
and they are not scored or thr ram worn, getting parts should be easy. Jim
 

I'm live in the middle of nowhere and dont have a local shop. I also have employees I directly supervise. The amount of missed work and HOURS in the truck to drop off and pick-up at a hydraulic shop I could put money down on a new loader. This should be a simple repair If I can source the parts.
 
The surest way to get the correct seals is to take the cylinders apart and match the old seals.

That also gives you a chance to inspect the cylinders for wear and damage.

With the seals in hand, measurements taken, pack them up and mail them to a seal supply, they will match them, and sell you the correct seals first time. It may take a week to get this done, depending on where your nearest seal supply is.

Don't know where you are located, but H&D Distributors in Dallas has knowledgeable staff and massive inventory. Call and make arrangements if you use them.
 
Farmhand loader seals are cups the oem seals are a lot
better than the aftermarket but that might be your only choice
. The number 1r3113 is for a 2.5 inch bore which should be for
you bucket tilt cylinder . 1r3050 should be your boom
cylinders if they are low pressure cylinders . Are your big
cylinders gland held on with two round clamps and four bolts
?
 
It's not as simple as "matching them up." Look at a hydraulic parts catalog. There are literally tens of thousands of different seals and cylinder parts, if not hundreds of thousands.

That's why the hydraulic shop won't talk to you. You can't adequately describe over the phone what you need, and they can't work off a vague description, or "I have a Farmhand loader..."

Unfortunately, for some things there just isn't "a kit I can buy online."
 

Try ebut once you have the cylinder(s) apart to see which piston rubbers and seals you need so you can match the everything. Plenty of sellers there. Cylinders come apart in different ways and have different seals. Try to loosen the end cap with both ends of the cylinder attached to the loader. Once you figure out which end the rod pulls out it will likely be easier to leave the other end in the loader pad eyes to break it all loose. May need something like a piston ring compressor or a homemade one with a roll of tin and clamps to get the piston rubber back in. If it is just the end seals leaking you could skip the piston rubbers but if you have it apart then you should do it all. If you go down to the test forum and post 5 or 10 test posts then the forum will let you post pictures here with the choose files button.
 
I rebuilt mine last winter, it was a company in Texas that I got the seals from, they actually had them by application. My loader is an F19. The seals were not like the old ones, they looked like a more modern silicone rubber seal, I was skeptical but they don't leak a drop now and my cylinders were far from perfect shape with rust and pits and scratches.
 
Send a picture of your cylinders but 1R3050 and 1R3113
should do it unless someone has changed the bucket
cylinders the boom cylinders are like still original as there
really isnt a replacement that works for them without quite a
big of modifications
 

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Thanks SVcummins, lots of folks commenting here that have never seen or worked on one of these loaders. There are plenty of threads where my same question was asked and answered (some by you) but the links and photos provided are dead now.


To those that are insulted by my post, understand that there are basically 2 options for cylinder repair kits and the difference is supposedly obvious to anyone who has worked on one before or has access to factory literature, I have done neither. This is not a generic China cylinder that requires breakdown and measurements before ordering the part.
The advice given so far amounts to telling a guy to disassemble his chevy so an expert can tell him if he needs a short or long water pump.
 

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