1086 axle size ?

rustred

Well-known Member
does anyone know the axle size on a 1086? or if the 1086 hubs will fit an 806 with 3 1/4 axles.?
 
ok thanks guys. i could have got a set of 1086 hubs . but not i will need to drill out some broken bolts ( studs). why are these breaking?
cvphoto82555.jpg


cvphoto82556.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:22:36 03/22/21) ok thanks guys. i could have got a set of 1086 hubs . but not i will need to drill out some broken bolts ( studs). why are these breaking?
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto82555.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto82556.jpg>


Don't drill them out.
weld a bolt on to the broken stud and I bet you will be able to back it out.
 
Is that a dual or the main wheel on the tractor?

Those kinds of hubs are not designed to handle the full power from the tractor. You need wedgelock hubs for the main wheels of the tractor to handle the power.

What you have there is a 9-bolt dual hub with a cast center from an older tractor. It's never going to hold up as the main/primary driving wheel on the tractor. You'll be snapping bolts until the end of time.
 
I must apologize. I got confused between the 1086 and 806.

Those are still the WRONG hubs for an 806. They're 9-bolt dual hubs. I think the stock clamp hubs for an 806 are stronger.

You could also use wedgelocks off of a 1066, but they're not absolutely necessary.
 
it is the main drive wheels. this is what the tractor had and the guy i got it from had it from new. it all looks original to the tractor
also. so was the wrong hubs installed from new??? i dont know but looks like it.
 
looks pretty original. so is it wrong hubs from new? i have the wheel weights off.
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Is that a International 806 or Farmall. Those wheels are for a International.

Only two suggestions I have is to get that hub farther toward tractor center by moving the wheel either on rim or side to side.

And, make darn sure that hub is not contacting on the top of the axle. The only contact hub must make to axle is on the driving lugs or it will work hub.
 
it is international. ok i can move the rim to the outer bevel, that puts the tire pretty close to the inside of fender right now it is about 6 away. i can see that it was on the outer bevels by the wear marks on the rim. someone moved rim to inside bevel. i am going to replace those studs with grade 8 bolts and torque them to 500 ft. lbs. that is way more torque than those studs use around, ( maybe 350 ft lbs.) i hope it dont break the casting at that torque. and yes understand the contact at the top. needs the contact on the sloped sides of the flat surfaces. my plan sound ok? thanks pete!
 
I have the same issue with my 806. The hub casting by the axle is lipped out causing the hub to rock slightly & over stress the bolts. Probably caused by loose bolts at some point in the tractors lifetime. At least that's what I've been told. Somewhat believable as the right hub on mine is the one with the issue & the left hub is still good. When it was in last fall to have the wheels swapped around, they said the studs in the right clamp were all relatively new & the left ones may well have been original.

Mike
 
Here is a semi good picture of a wedge lock hub that came from the factory on a 1086. Not such a good pic with the weights and the horse shoe bolted in the way but it's what I have.
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Can't say on the hub or axle shaft diameter. Whet trouble are you having? I broke one casting one time from hitting a pile of manure and the wheel would spin plowing then hit the dirt and shock the casting and bolts clamping it on. Replaced casting and have had no more problem with cracked casting centers since. That was over 30 years ago on my 806. Now doesn't work like it used to.
 
just breaking the studs, so going to replace with grade 8 bolts today, and torque to 500 lbs which will put more pressure on the small clamp and was hopeing this wont crack it. those original studs would only be good for around 350 ft. lbs.
 

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