Replacing the rear freeze or welsh plug

I believe I have an 800 series Ford. Don't know the year. All of the markings are worn off. Maybe late 50's early 60's? Anyway, the lower rear freeze plug in the block is gone. I wanted to replace it so I split the tractor...by myself. Not an easy task but I'm learning quite a bit. When I split it, I noticed that some kind of protection plate of steel (I didn't just notice it, I had seen it all along) was blocking the hole for the plug. I honestly thought that perhaps I could rotate the plate enough to give me clearance to install the plug but there is an index pin that will not allow that to happen. I don't wish to remove the clutch assembly as it looks huge and way too heavy for me. But that appears as if that is the only way to get the plug installed. Any ideas? If I did something wrong, incorrect, stupid, (other than doing it by myself and being 65 years old) and your response will help me, go for it. Thanks - Mark
 
I have removed those alignment pins with grip pliers before. However i am doubtful that will give enough
access to replace the welsh plug. I have never tried replacing one that way. You are correct, the clutch
assembly and the flywheel are quite heavy but, i have always removed them to do this job correctly. Good
luck.
 
Like old ford said those pins come out with vise grips , might take a little heat but you should be able to rotate them and work them out
 
(quoted from post at 17:08:33 03/20/21) I have removed those alignment pins with grip pliers before. However i am doubtful that will give enough
access to replace the welsh plug. I have never tried replacing one that way. You are correct, the clutch
assembly and the flywheel are quite heavy but, i have always removed them to do this job correctly. Good
luck.

That is awesome news. Thank you. And is that a double clutch system? Is that why it's so large?
 
Best to bite the bullet and do it right. Trying to short cut the freeze plug replacement due to poor access, only to have it leak when done would be disastrous!

If that is a dual clutch, when you go to put it back together, you MUST have an alignment stub shaft or you will never get the engine stabbed back in!

Trying to get it back in misaligned will be a frustrating and damaging process if the engine is forced into position.

While you are in there, take a look around. If there is any doubt about the condition of the clutch, release bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel gear, input shaft seals, now is the time to deal with it!
 
(quoted from post at 18:41:28 03/20/21) Best to bite the bullet and do it right. Trying to short cut the freeze plug replacement due to poor access, only to have it leak when done would be disastrous!

If that is a dual clutch, when you go to put it back together, you MUST have an alignment stub shaft or you will never get the engine stabbed back in!

Trying to get it back in misaligned will be a frustrating and damaging process if the engine is forced into position.

While you are in there, take a look around. If there is any doubt about the condition of the clutch, release bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel gear, input shaft seals, now is the time to deal with it!


I agree - was thinking about that last night. No way to line it up without one. And I do want to do it right. Last thing I want is to have it start leaking again after all this work. I just have to go slow. After all - I've chosen this as a hobby. :)
 
Hello, being a Welsh citizen I would have to take issue with you over
the spelling of the word Welsh. They are in fact Welch plugs!!!! I
wouldnt mind a penny royalty on every one thats ever been used!!!!
DavidP, South Wales
 
Got to jump in to here!! A 800 Ford double clutch is self contained. no need for a alignment tool. Six 3/8 bolts hold it IN the fly wheel, heave!! 50#?? but relativly easy to handle
 
(quoted from post at 03:03:22 03/21/21) Got to jump in to here!! A 800 Ford double clutch is self contained. no need for a alignment tool. Six 3/8 bolts hold it IN the fly wheel, heave!! 50#?? but relativly easy to handle

Thanks for the info. Are they held onto the flywheel with some type of a pin or retainer or will it come reeling off when the last bolt is removed?
 
Hold the clutch against the flywheel as the last bolt is removed and then us your predetermined method of handling it. I usually grab it with two
hands
 
(quoted from post at 05:27:41 03/21/21) Hold the clutch against the flywheel as the last bolt is removed and then us your predetermined method of handling it. I usually grab it with two
hands

Will do. Most likely place a jack stand under it since I have rotated the engine out from its mount where I can work on it. Thanks for your help.
 
Never had a ford apart though If you had a couple long bolts you could slide the flywheel back enough to work behind it well with the flywheel held safely. Might need more than 2or 3 bolts depending on the length you get. I would thing 6-8 inches would work.
 


only the 5 spd trannys had the "live pto" option or double clutch option. Not all 5 spds had the option. 4 spd trannys had single clutches and transmission pto's.

you can order a plastic pilot shaft or try to pull the dowel pins. Might want to look the clutch over if your gone this far..
 

Thanks for the info. I finally removed the flywheel - extremely heavy but lowered it down mechanically, replaced the freeze plug and will be replacing the throwout bearing as well. The clutch plate will also get replaced. Ring gear looked ok.

Question though. The fingers in the pressure plate, the small bolts at the end are worn down. Are they made from special grade steel or can I replace them with stainless? Thanks.
 

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