I know this should be on implement alley, but more traffic here . Have a New Holland 479 haybine and am replacing the 2 u joints at the end of the shaft closest to the tractor. Old ones looked original and came out hard. Have 2 new ones from CNH. I cleaned up the yoke for the first with emery cloth and made sure it was clean with no rough spots or burrs. Go to put it together and all it did was bind. The caps wouldnt seat all the way even though the joint moved freely. I did get a little upset and cut out the new joint. I figured I may have gotten one of the needles out of place but that wasnt it. When I got the caps out of the yoke after cutting the u joint it the yoke had ridges where the cap was fighting the yoke to go in. The u joints are from our local Case/IH dealer. Made in the land of almost good. Problem with my yoke or variances in parts ? How to get past it ? I put a very fine wheel on my die grinder to get the cups to sit better . Thoughts ?
- Thread starter 300jk
- Start date
Loosehandle
Well-known Member
- Location
- Wisconsin
Been down the die grinder road with JD 1209 mo co u joints, worked fine all last year. Yolks were damaged from turning too sharp.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
It's easy to spring the yoke ears together trying to get the old cups out or the new ones in.
If you put the cross assembly gently in the vise, put enough pressure on it to compress the seals and get metal to metal on the inside thrust surfaces, then measure either the outside of the cups, or the snap ring groove with calipers, then compare that measurement with the dimensions of the yoke, you can determine if it will fit once properly assembled.
If the yoke is sprung inward, correct the fit first. Then you will know it is right before starting the assembly.
If you put the cross assembly gently in the vise, put enough pressure on it to compress the seals and get metal to metal on the inside thrust surfaces, then measure either the outside of the cups, or the snap ring groove with calipers, then compare that measurement with the dimensions of the yoke, you can determine if it will fit once properly assembled.
If the yoke is sprung inward, correct the fit first. Then you will know it is right before starting the assembly.
john in la
Well-known Member
Are you saying the cup was cutting a ridge all the way around the cup like the cup was just a little to big....
Or are you saying the cup was cutting a ridge at say the top and bottom of the yoke hole like the yoke hole is a little out of round.
A good set of micrometers; or a drive line place with micrometers can tell you if you are out of round or if the u=joints are wrong.
Or are you saying the cup was cutting a ridge at say the top and bottom of the yoke hole like the yoke hole is a little out of round.
A good set of micrometers; or a drive line place with micrometers can tell you if you are out of round or if the u=joints are wrong.
For those reading this thread and have NH Haybines, or most any make, no need to limit it to NH. 300jk's 479 driveline u-joints may have lasted over 50 years as he suspects they may be original, so someone got their moneys worth out of them and did not necessarily abuse the machine. However, making sharp turns with your haybine, which is very easy to do when you wish to square off your corners, will drastically shorten the life of your U-joints. Not worth it. Just in case someone is wondering....
john in la
Well-known Member
I agree. Changed many a u joint and never used a mic.
But I am not there to see the problem and we are talking over the internet with no pictures.
I can only tell you ways to check for out of round or over size. The fix for each is different for each.
But I am not there to see the problem and we are talking over the internet with no pictures.
I can only tell you ways to check for out of round or over size. The fix for each is different for each.
showcrop
Well-known Member
300jk, I agree that you probably got it started just a little off. Last spring I had a bad problem with one on the drive shaft on my JD roll-a-bar rake. One yoke was badly bent from the telescoping tube and shaft being stuck. It probably took just minutes for it to push one yoke tip back. I got it bent back to where the retaining ring would go in. Even though the outer part was bent back, 2/3 of the circumference was undisturbed, so it was still circular.
Sometimes a brake hone is your friend. I have got so I always hone the yokes and get a slight bevel on the starting edge. There is really no need for a heavy press fit as they have a clip. If there is a burr on the edge it can upset the metal enough to make installation difficult. If the joints have been worked hard they can turn in a bit and make things difficult and of course I have damaged the yokes during disassembly. I have a 17 ton press and the yokes can be damaged pressing out the old joint. If the joints have an outside clip and just need a slight amount to get the clip in , I have pressed them out just a few thousands and polished the cap end with a grinder. It is possible they are the wrong joints, I would measure with a caliper.
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