Massey Ferguson 202

youngfrmr

New User
Hey there, Ive been working on an MF 202 I recently bought. New fan belt, tach cable, coolant flush and
radiator fix, clutch adjustment, cleaning oil bath air cleaner. I drained the transmission oil and put some cheapo
farm store stuff in. Im going to run it a while and then drain to get it flushed out good, but Im not sure what I
should put in after that. Im willing to spend some money to get the right stuff. Suggestions?
 
Option-2.
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At that price imagine how good the stuff inside was!
 


It depends on where you are and how you will use it. The more modern more expensive oils have many additives to enable them to work with the wet clutch packs and brakes on modern tractors. These additives don't enable the oil to do anything better for an old dry clutch and brake tractor like your 202, than plain gear oil will do. What the these tractor hydraulic will do however is absorb a lot more moisture than older cheaper hydraulic oil or gear oil. The moisture gets in when humidity is high, and condenses on the interior surfaces of the transmission and hydraulic housing, and the oil absorbs it, and then the oil is described by the worried owner posting here as looking like a coffee milkshake. Posts about this come up here every other week. If you use your 202 long enough and hard enough frequently enough to get the oil hot enough for long enough the moisture will be driven off. Otherwise you will probably need to change it at least every year. If you use conventional oil such as what the tractor was shipped with originally you need to simply loosen the drain plugs and drain the water off the bottom once a year. In this case spending more is probably not good for your tractor.
 
That tractor closely resembles the MF35 farm tractor, but with a heavier front end for loader work.

As far as I know the transmission and gear cases are the same and probably came with GL1 90w mineral oil. GL1 does not contain EP additives, which is what the brass pump components require.

Being a single grade oil, (that is all that was available then) it gets really stiff in cold weather, which will slow down the hydraulics until it gets up to temperature. The common substitute is 15w-40 diesel engine oil. Cheap and available anywhere!

Those transmissions are incredibly tough! Not picky about lubrication, as you probably found water inside, so many run unknowingly with more water than oil!

How are the shifter boots? And there may be a top link boot under the seat. If any are bad, they will funnel water in if stored outside.

When filling the transmission, pouring the oil in the fill hole on top of the transmission must be done very slowly, in increments so the oil has time to distribute back to the intermediate and final drive cases. Pour it in too fast and it will flood the clutch from less than perfect input shaft seals. An alternative is to fill it through the right round cover below the seat.

If yours has a loader, chances are there is an engine driven hydraulic pump with a separate reservoir built into the loader frame. That is a stand alone system that will use RO type medium hydraulic fluid.

You really need to invest in a shop manual, they are not expensive, and will more than pay for itself in mistakes not made and peace of mind decisions. You can get most on this site, or find used ones on Ebay. Get a real hard copy manual that you can carry to the shop, make notes, get it dirty! Those grease stains will have lasting memories down the road!

About the air filter, did you know there is a wire mesh inside the canister that needs servicing? It is rarely mentioned, and is a real bear to get out, but if it's been neglected for 60 years, you can bet it is a solid cake of dirt!

Hope this helps, keep in touch, we're here to help!
 

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