Tires Bias versus radials

caterpillar guy

Well-known Member
Looking at putting new tires on an 806D this spring. Considering Whether to go with radials or just keep with bias. I've heard the radials will last longer roading and pull better. Tractor is not plowing or pulling heavy tillage anymore. Mostly wagons on road and general work ,auger, spreading fertilizer, some disking, planting and haying.
The cost seems to not be all that much difference for radials when looking at ads in magazines and papers. And which tires to go with. Currently has a set of Akurets on it and have not been the best tires.
I will probably have weights on both sides at this time also instead of loading tires.
 
After replacing a set of 4 tires on my 14k implement trailer, Trailer tires have an out of sight warranty. none.
Car and truck tires may be rated by mileage, however most only have a 4,5,or 6 year manufactorss warranty.
I got 10 years out of mine before I decided it was too dangerous not to replace them.
I replaced them with same OEM tires that came on the trailer.
Tire barn gave me a deal $306 out the door for 4 tires. So if I get 10 years that less than $31/year
George
 
Weights instead of fluid is definitely better. But I think you notice more difference in the type of ballast if the tires are radial instead of bias. Fluid inhibits the radial from doing its thing. My preference is Firestone radial on a tillage tractor, most other uses I would use Firestone bias. See also discussion below about Michelin and road use. But so much depends on dealers, and what's available in your area. As you say, you're seeing similar prices. That really surprises me. But I haven't priced tires recently.
 
The difference I'm seeing is about 2-400 per tire depending on brand and tread. I have dealers for most available brands. Firestone, Titan, And a bunch of the over seas brands. Probably will kep the tractor till I either quit or die.
 
Radials were a 800 dollar option on the new 65hp 4 wheel drive tractor I brought a couple years ago. They ended up getting the tractor from another dealer they had in stock and it came with the radials on it which I wasn't charged for as I didn't order it with them. I like them but can't really say weather they are better than bias tires but I'm happy with them. They do seem to have a wider foot print and ride good. I always understood they would bite better but can't really say as the tractor does what I want it to do without extra weight or fluid.
 
After you drive a few feet you will be hooked on the radials for the mere fact the radials ride smoother. Without duals the tractor will be rocking and rolling some when going down the road in high gear but it's the nature of the beast. I was told once the older rims are not designed for radials, the beads are different but maybe that is coffee shop talk. A while after I replaced the bias ply 18.4-38s with radials on the 1086 a rear rim split apart at the bead. It could have been coincidence, the tractor had about 3000 hours on it at the time.
 
Last set we installed on my 806 were Firestone radials 18.4x34 and ye we pumped them full of the dreaded Calcium , Now am i totally thrilled with them NOT 100% , yes they get down and pull well , yes they ride better BUT they plum suck on the side hill . The one nasty hilly hay field we make hay on is not for the faint of heart . At the N/E end when you make the turn mowing or raking even with the weight of the 806 and she is setting just about 14000 lbs the haybine still shoves your donkey sideways when ya make the turn to the south . Coming east on the north side the back end tends to want to walk down the hill more then the old Bias did and you find yourself grab steering more tryen to get a full cut with out striping the field with uncut hay. I think they have been on now for five years this spring .
 
Ya can not hang enough I H donuts to equal one loaded tire and the loaded tire keeps the center of gravity lower . I would have to hang 10 weights each side to get the same weight and that would cause problems getting thru some gates or backing in the barn staying close to the side wall . Long gone are the days when i could by I H weights for 5 bucks a set for rears and 10-15 per. ft weight or better yet at the one sale where they would put ten weights together with a brand new Chain and bolt that chain together and ya bid on the chain and got the weights for FREE . some weeks they had new 24 foot 5/16 G70 chains and maybe the next sale it was 3/8th G 70 chain . This accomplished two things (1) nobody would steal a couple weights off someone else stack and it made for faster loading of the weights with a lot less manhandling as that was the last thing ya wanted to be doing at the end of a LONG day at the sale was to go load up 5or 10000 lbs of IRON by hand .
 
fixerupper, your rim had to have been damaged, rusted from leaking calcium, or defective from the factory. Yours is the first I've heard of older rims not being "designed for radials." Quite frankly I do not believe that it is true.
 

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