Clutch - Replace or Reuse

pburchett

Member
The clutch is from a Ferguson TO20. After cleaning all the oil from it and heating it on the wood stove to remove the soaked in oil I found these cracks. Didnt know if it was safe to use or just get another one. I did not know if cracks in the clutch material were common. I would hate to split the tractor again later over a $45 part.

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It's hard to see, are the rivets flush with the clutch material? If they are, you should probably
replace it.
 
Replace it, it had oil on/in it and its cracked. I would be replacing the pressure plate as as well and checking to see if the flywheel needs attention.
 
[i:654c4848f0]I would hate to split the tractor again later over a $45 part.[/i:654c4848f0]

Looks like you answered your own question. T'was me, I'd certainly replace it. The advice to examine/replace the pressure plate and throwout bearing is well taken too.
 
Replacing it now prevents having it fail in a week, or a month or when you need it in the field. The pressure plate can be looked at by a mechanic to
assess the wear on pivot points and the face. If the price is easily in the budget just replace it, the pilot bearing in the crank, and the throwout
bearing. Labor and time out of service is more expensive than the cost. Jim
 
As much work as it is to split a tractor you don't want to use anything you have doubts on. Don't cheap out either, I split a tractor a couple years ago and replaced the disc, pressure plate and release bearing but the shift fork and rod looked alright so I re-used
them and now I'm splitting the tractor again to replace those. Not long after I put it back together the rod bent enough the clutch practically quit working. In hindsight I know I should have replaced everything.
 
Suggestion have a local shop like Cleveland ,canton https://www.customclutch.com/ or wadsorth Ohio Ohio clutch and brake remanufacture it for you .
Better than a cheap Chinese . Keep local neighbor working I say.
I use cook bonding in brook park Ohio to do my corvette e brake and antique Farmall band brake s . Got to be a place close to you that does industrial
clutches . I talk to Brian at cook ,he is so helpful , just pleasure to have a vendor do that . He digs into the archives to do the Farmall brake bands ,cant
say enough good about them .
Ups it to them .
 
If it's in the budget, replace it.

Also a good time to replace the front transmission seal, cheap and easy.

When you get the new disc, remember the formula for the friction material has changed and it will be more prone to rust sticking.

You can fabricate a hook or block to hold it down when stored.
 

That's the closest you're ever going to be to it without spending time and doing a lot of work again.

How much time does 45 bucks buy?

That said, if I had nothing else to do and the tractor is only ever going to see very light use........

Nope, I'd still put a new one in it.
 

Looks about worn out to me. In my limited experience I don't think you can dry it enough to get all the oil out. It will start grabbing on you and then on one of those grabs it will shatter.

Back in the day, I used to be able to park the 50 or 57 chevy over a dry ditch, drop the tranny by hand, and change the clutch. Then do it all over again cause I didn't change the throwout bearing at the same time. Then do it again cause I didn't resurface the cracks in the flywheel surface and had premature disk failure. Add in a little hotrodding into the equation.

Usually they say to change the pilot bearing in the flywheel at the same time for about 5 bux each. Check that seal and probably replace it. If there is a freeze plug back there change it if it is showing any kind of rust but may not if rusting on the inside but freeze plugs are cheap. Don't know about the Ferguson but with the internationals oil will flow through the mounting bolt holes of the flywheel so they recommend using red thread locker on them.

Of course you need to address the source of the oil leak or it will happen again. Engine oil or tranny oil and replace the seal(s).
 
Replace it,Im guessing thats exactly how the clutch in my 3010 looked right before it started shedding pieces
and locked the clutch up so it wouldnt release.Not a pleasant experience,fortunately it happened out in the field
so harm done.
 

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