3 point vs pull not till drill

Hello guys Id appreciate your recommendations on drill type. Ive had a small farm (40 acres) that I have played around with in central Missouri for last 10 years or so. Id often rent the Great Plains 606nt from Nrcs and pull it with my old 4010. Its a pull type. Ive just bought a 450 acre place in the ozarks on tablerock lake. Its mostly timber but about a 100 acres of overgrazed ridge top pastures. I am going to get a new tractor probably in the 90 hp class but big enough to run a big batwing and pull a bailer. The pastures have some slope to them not enough to look like they will be hard to mow or anything but definantly hills. One is about 20 acres the other about 70. The 70 acre one has a lot of lobes to it as it follows ridge tops. Some of the places are kind of tight and the 3 pt models would be Handy. In my experience pulling discs pulltype cut better follow land better. I wont be discing at the new place but wondering if drills are similar. Backing anything hooked by a Clevis is not fun for me What do you all think of 3 pt drills? Both units are heavy 4,000 pounds or so
 
I have a 20' GP no-till drill and coulter cart. But is 2 point hook on the tractor three point hitch. Can unhook the cart and use the drill as a three point lift drill. Coulter cart makes it easy to no-till...really like the drill.
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4000 pounds is pretty darn heavy!A 90 horse tractor would hardpressed to lift,let alone normal usage.Stick with a pull type. You want to back into tight corners? your swather,baler wont be able to get there either.Let nature reseed the tight corners. Your 4010 is about 90 horse. aim higher,like 100 to 125.
 
Carrying 4000 lbs on the 3 pt on hills will take a fair amount of tractor. I wouldnt care to try it with a 4010, and even less with a modern 90hp.
 
Have you looked at the 90 hp tractor made today? You have to treat them like 50 hp tractors of 30 years ago because that is about how much iron they have in them. About the only 3 point drill I would ever use on a new 90 hp tractor is one of those Great Plains 6ft drills like the one in the link.

https://www.greatplainsag.com/en/products/11026/3p500-3p500v-3p600
3 point drill
 
I have a Great Plains 3P606NT that I mount on a Kubota M6800 tractor which has 62 drawbar horsepower. I consider it a perfect match. The bare drill weighs 2280 lbs and I can get 15 bushels of soybean seed in it bringing its total weight to 3180 lbs. The tractor is rated to carry 3300 lbs 24" behind the links. The tractor has no problem doing this. I've been doing it for 20 years.
 
I carry a 3000 pound lely on a 4020 with 5 weights plus the side weights so about 600 pounds front weight a 4010 should handle 4000 easy
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I agree on newer tractors,, I used a 8' Ae-Way that was over 8K on my Case 770,, its rated 56hp,, handled it fine but I did have to install over 1000 lbs of weight on the front so she steered like it should,, I also am no fan of three- pt hitch drills,, not that they wont work,, I just do not like how they skip seeding for a few feet after you set them down,, as long as you remember to over lap at the ends you are fine, if you have room,,
 
Great advice and insights as usual. Great pictures as well. Wow, spent some time looking at tractor data site and replacing my 4010 is going to be a challenge. I am surprised how light a 100 hp tractor is. They look big with the cabs. Looking at a massy kubota or mahindra I have around 50K to spent. I'll keep my 4010, its a family piece bought new in 1962 by wife's grandad. Still have the reciept. I want to get something beefy with some weight as I intend to get a forestry winch and do some logging. My little case 455c crawler doesn't do too good pulling up the hills (no grousers). Thinking I'll stay up on top and winch up. I'll only be logging for personal sawmill and firewood.
 

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