belarus 562 electrical

have a belarus 562, batteries two 12 are in correct. charges after starting way to much between 20-30 on alt gauge just bought tractor did this when I first got it . have to shut off kill switch gets hot has me puzzled

You are in for some experience, the electrical on that thing is awful . It has a switch that makes it START on 24 volts or the batteries in series, then it should drop back or turn back to parallel , you need to find what is called the series parallel switch and see what is going on. It may be that you have to do it manually but I think it should do it on it,s own .

(quoted from post at 19:43:54 02/16/21) You are in for some experience, the electrical on that thing is awful . It has a switch that makes it START on 24 volts or the batteries in series, then it should drop back or turn back to parallel , you need to find what is called the series parallel switch and see what is going on. It may be that you have to do it manually but I think it should do it on it,s own .

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Apparently "jm." has done pretty well for himself selling 'botas, but don't let his comments discourage you, not everyone has the $$$ to own one of those.


It seems there's two factions on this "Yesterdays Tractors" page, one that is dedicated to "Yesterdays Tractors" and the other to late model "Botas".

Your Belarus started and ran when new, and it will again.

Belarus was not alone in using a series-parallel switch to enable starting on 24 Volts and charging at 12 Volts.

MANY US semi trucks and various off-road equipment did just that.

Don't give up, you can probably find a wiring diagram on the 'net and some "oldtimer" nearby that knows about series-parallel switches.

interesting: Not to be a nit picker , but the reading you are getting is 20/30 amps or volts, and you mention alternator? sure its not a generator, which has a regulator control unit mounted elsewhere.
your last sentence "have to shut off kill switch gets hot" your wording/info has me puzzled
we need more detail as to when you shut the tractor off (with fuel control) the ground switch gets hot? or does the series/parallel unit gets hot?
if you are having a heat problem at the ground switch, there is a good chance the connection from switch to tractor is in need of service, clean and tighten to eliminate that possibility.
Before starting the tractor take the main power lead off the starter solenoid from the batteries and with a volt meter you should have 12 volts from it to ground, when the ground switch is on and key is "on" if it has a on position besides just being stuck in the slot.
Now when you turn the key to the start position, you should have 24 volts at the cable end to tractor ground, and when the key is returned from start, the 24 should drop to 12 volts.
now you know the series/parallel switch is operating.
The last time i had one fail the factory smoke comes out WAY to quick...
I switched to 2 batteries in parallel for 12 volts put on a reduction gear starter as a replacement of the original, and it rolls and starts for the
last couple years of winter.
post back what you find and hope it helps.

Ground switches on Belarus's are notorious for bad connections. Remove and clean where they mount.

Certainly was not trying to discourage him and was only passing on my personal experience with the things, way before
BOTA as you mention. Sorry I riled you .

He made exactly zero mention of Kubota in his first post.

sorry, was not very clear ! tractor starts fine The amp meter on dash reads up to 30 when tractor is throttled up. will stay there, amp meter gets hot . I shut off switch in back, which is not hot to shut off power. tractor still running .it has two 12 volt batteries run parallel to a 12 volt starter same as the 525 and 825. someone has changed some wiring just can't figure out

Now things make sense...i have to come back with more time to write but you now know that the ground switch,
when off does not stop[ the engine, it just disconnects the batteries from the tractor itself/ground point.
still make sure that this ground point is clean and tight.
i suspect it only has a 30amp meter in it anyway, any chance you have access to a 60 amp unit? to try temporary, i will send a reason later on, as to where this might be leading to..

Ok: I am back and have questions...Important!!!....Do not open the ground switch when the engine is running, high voltage occurs at the regulator transistors and can destroy their function.......First what is the battery voltage at the battery posts when the tractor is idling, and when running at PTO speed?
Next is if you have a load tester to connect to each battery, and load one battery at a time for 15 secs each?
When you operate the ground switch, with the engine not running, does the red dash light come on? and go out when the engine is running?

Also does the amp meter go in the high range as soon as the engine starts? or current builds up in under 10 seconds?
Also can you post a picture of the generator unit itself ? the rear end/connections of the unit, just enough to see the shape and type of unit?
that's enough info for now to get clues as to the problem, if you want, open up your e-mail, so we don't chew up space and time on kims site ?
Phil