I have a MF 150, have started rebuilding it and it was going great up until i got the new carb in, it is way to small and i cant find any numbers on the current carb. I'm looking to restore this tractor, for every day normal use (moving round bales and assisting in hauling logs when cutting) can someone please assist me on finding more info on this machine please.
- Thread starter quade365
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Here are pages of them. there are evidently 2 or more OEM supplier. Match your old with the ones shown. Jim
Google pics
Google pics
Massey is with the AGCO group. This should take you to the 150 catalog .
https://na.apb.agcocorp.com/p/masseyferguson/651200/l
If by chance it does not work go to the AGCO parts online site and sign in as a guest and make your way to the 150 catalog, it covers all parts of your tractor.
https://na.apb.agcocorp.com/p/masseyferguson/651200/l
If by chance it does not work go to the AGCO parts online site and sign in as a guest and make your way to the 150 catalog, it covers all parts of your tractor.
based on that site, which i have ordered a lot from already, just don't want to buy another carb. ASAP Item No. 205363 out of their catalog looks like its the same. in that picture on the bottom is 2 brass parts, one center bottom and the other faceing back a bit more, what are they for. the one that is faceing a bit back is just a screw on mine, looks rigged????
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
Is your original carb broken? As in physically broken and not repairable?
Sounds like you either have the wrong new carb or it is a fit all, designed to be reconfigured for the correct choke and throttle linkage, and inlet fitting location. Throttle linkage is critical in order for the governor to work properly.
If there is any way to save your original, you will be way ahead. If not a rebuilt original will be better than the aftermarket.
Sounds like you either have the wrong new carb or it is a fit all, designed to be reconfigured for the correct choke and throttle linkage, and inlet fitting location. Throttle linkage is critical in order for the governor to work properly.
If there is any way to save your original, you will be way ahead. If not a rebuilt original will be better than the aftermarket.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
To get to the AGCO parts books, one has to go to https://apb.agcocorp.com/ and click on "View Books" in the Guest User area. Links to a given book or page do not work for that site. Enter 150 in the search box on the next page.
Now, which gas engine do you have? the 3 cylinder Perkins or the 4 cylinder Continental?
Do you have the tractor serial number? There are some serial number breaks on the carbs.
On you original carb, is there a small round brass tag with numbers and letters on the throat of the carb right under the flange where it bolts to the intake manifold?
On the bottom of the bowl in the picture that carb has an adjustable main jet and the bowl drain plug. Some of the original carbs used an electric solenoid in place of the adjustable main jet. That shuts the gas off when the key is shut off to eliminate "dieseling" and backfires at shutdown that can occur with a hot engine. Does your original carb have just the drain plug with the adjustable jet in the upper body or a solenoid?
Do you have the correct Massey Ferguson Operator's manual and the Service manual for your tractor?
Adding a picture of your original carb might help, however: Not always, but in most cases new users have to have 5 or more posts on record before the site lets them post pictures, due to site spam filters. Another option is to go down to the Site Comments Forum and ask YT Support for permission to post prior to that. You can try going down to the Test Forum and making several posts there to get your post count up, trying to attach your pictures to each post. That may work after you make several posts. Then make your post here again. It may not work immediately after you get past the 5 posts, if not, you might try logging out and back in at that point. There is a size limit as well, I think it is a total of 7.5mb per post (be it one picture or the total of several). Some pictures (often taken with phones), are too large and have to be reduced.
Now, which gas engine do you have? the 3 cylinder Perkins or the 4 cylinder Continental?
Do you have the tractor serial number? There are some serial number breaks on the carbs.
On you original carb, is there a small round brass tag with numbers and letters on the throat of the carb right under the flange where it bolts to the intake manifold?
On the bottom of the bowl in the picture that carb has an adjustable main jet and the bowl drain plug. Some of the original carbs used an electric solenoid in place of the adjustable main jet. That shuts the gas off when the key is shut off to eliminate "dieseling" and backfires at shutdown that can occur with a hot engine. Does your original carb have just the drain plug with the adjustable jet in the upper body or a solenoid?
Do you have the correct Massey Ferguson Operator's manual and the Service manual for your tractor?
Adding a picture of your original carb might help, however: Not always, but in most cases new users have to have 5 or more posts on record before the site lets them post pictures, due to site spam filters. Another option is to go down to the Site Comments Forum and ask YT Support for permission to post prior to that. You can try going down to the Test Forum and making several posts there to get your post count up, trying to attach your pictures to each post. That may work after you make several posts. Then make your post here again. It may not work immediately after you get past the 5 posts, if not, you might try logging out and back in at that point. There is a size limit as well, I think it is a total of 7.5mb per post (be it one picture or the total of several). Some pictures (often taken with phones), are too large and have to be reduced.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
9A81665 looks like a 1969 serial number.
Sorry to say this but, whether it has 3 or 4 cylinders shouldn't be an "I think" answer in my mind. If you mean you think it is a Perkins, the 3 or 4 cylinder alone tells if it is Perkins or Continental in this case. Do you know for sure how many cylinders, forget about the manufacturer's name for now.
Did you purchase the ASAP Item No. 205363, you posted the number of? That is for the 3 cylinder Perkins, it will be wrong for the 4 cylinder Continental. The choke operating mechanism is on opposite sides of the inlet throat of the carbs used on the two engines, along with other differences.
Looks like we need pictures of your engine as well as both, your old and new carbs, to fully help you.
Its a 3 cylinder, I got the tune up kit, replaced the distributor cap, rotor and internals, also replaced the plgs, wires and coil. I know its the 3 cylinder Perkins I just don't know how to read that number. I have looked it up and the best I could do is a 1970. How do you figure it is a 1969? I will post pictures soon.
I can get it to run with its current set up, however it smells very rich and I have to run it with the choke all the way out. What carb kit should I get? Also, I cant quite afford the carbs on this site so I look them up and order on ebay. So I purchased the wrong one. I believe the one I have is still good. Just a few missing parts and hasn't ran for about 3 years, until the other day. I also, replaced each wire one my one and ran all new wiring for the whole tractor and replaced the alt. At this point my focus is on 2 things. On get the carb replaced or rebuild it with a kit. 2, I really want to have the exhaust go up and out(stack) and not down and out the back. The exhaust manifold that I have is currently running down and out the back, however the front of the manifold is blocked off my a square plate can I just run it off that or do I need to by an elbow and run it up from the bottom port?
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
Serial number lists most commonly show the first serial number of a build year. A few lists specify they are the ending number for each year. The MF150 ones are first numbers. 1969's first serial number was 9A63158. 1970's first serial number was 9A87325. Your number is after 9A63158 and before 9A87325, so it is a 1969 serial number.
Do you have any manuals for your tractor?
The parts book I gave you the link to, and info about using, will show you the parts you need to change it to a vertical exhaust. The manifold is the same for both, with the vertical coming off the port where the square plate is, but you will need several parts for the vertical exhaust.
Unless the choke is working backwards on the carb you are running currently, running with the choke on will make it run rich, as intake air is restricted.
If the original carb can be identified we maybe able to help you with suggestions of a kit number.
To properly answer your how to post pictures questions, Are you using the Classic view or the Modern view of the forum?
Do you have any manuals for your tractor?
The parts book I gave you the link to, and info about using, will show you the parts you need to change it to a vertical exhaust. The manifold is the same for both, with the vertical coming off the port where the square plate is, but you will need several parts for the vertical exhaust.
Unless the choke is working backwards on the carb you are running currently, running with the choke on will make it run rich, as intake air is restricted.
If the original carb can be identified we maybe able to help you with suggestions of a kit number.
To properly answer your how to post pictures questions, Are you using the Classic view or the Modern view of the forum?
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
Others may have more or different thoughts but here are mine.
So the pictures are of the original carb, to your knowledge? I have pointed out some of the parts on it for you.
It appears the main jet adjusting needle is missing, evidenced by the wrong screw in it. According to the parts book, that carb was originally equipped with the solenoid shutoff main jet set up in that location, which may explain the screw. It also appears the idle air adjusting screw may be missing.
The 150 parts book shows the part number as 520736M92, which appears to be a Marvel Schebler TSX947, for the Perkins engine. Without tearing it down to see what else might be missing, modified, or otherwise compromised; you will need at least a major kit and maybe some other parts, not in the kit, or a basic kit with many parts, to fix it. So it is not going to be as simple as here's a kit number that will have everything you need. According to info I find on several sites and catalogs it uses the same basic kit as the TSX882, getting the right other parts will be the bigger challenge. I support purchasing from YT, or ASAP, you may need to talk with one of the sites specializing in carbs to get all the parts you need.
Some other options are send it to a rebuilder, or buy another. You might find complete carb you could rebuild from a salvage yard, or someone on here might have one. Knowing your general location might bring out some ideas. If you decide to purchase, confirm things like how the choke is set up, center to center of mounting stud/bolt holes, throttle linkage, and fuel inlet location.
Also, if you get a new/different carb it may have the solenoid main jet or the adjustable jet.
Here are a couple things you can study to help you.
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets/manuals/dltx_tsc_manual.pdf
https://route249.com/2018/09/09/how-to-rebuild-the-marvel-schebler-carburetor/
So the pictures are of the original carb, to your knowledge? I have pointed out some of the parts on it for you.
It appears the main jet adjusting needle is missing, evidenced by the wrong screw in it. According to the parts book, that carb was originally equipped with the solenoid shutoff main jet set up in that location, which may explain the screw. It also appears the idle air adjusting screw may be missing.
The 150 parts book shows the part number as 520736M92, which appears to be a Marvel Schebler TSX947, for the Perkins engine. Without tearing it down to see what else might be missing, modified, or otherwise compromised; you will need at least a major kit and maybe some other parts, not in the kit, or a basic kit with many parts, to fix it. So it is not going to be as simple as here's a kit number that will have everything you need. According to info I find on several sites and catalogs it uses the same basic kit as the TSX882, getting the right other parts will be the bigger challenge. I support purchasing from YT, or ASAP, you may need to talk with one of the sites specializing in carbs to get all the parts you need.
Some other options are send it to a rebuilder, or buy another. You might find complete carb you could rebuild from a salvage yard, or someone on here might have one. Knowing your general location might bring out some ideas. If you decide to purchase, confirm things like how the choke is set up, center to center of mounting stud/bolt holes, throttle linkage, and fuel inlet location.
Also, if you get a new/different carb it may have the solenoid main jet or the adjustable jet.
Here are a couple things you can study to help you.
https://www.carburetor-parts.com/assets/manuals/dltx_tsc_manual.pdf
https://route249.com/2018/09/09/how-to-rebuild-the-marvel-schebler-carburetor/
alright, I printed that off. i can read over it, i will pull the carb this week and see if i can find any numbers. i may just end up getting a new carb, just need to get it at the right price. I would prefer to rebuild this one though, probably start with a nbasic carb kit for it when i find one and get the missing part at the bottom where the now bolt is.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
I see I missed attaching the photo I marked up for you. This may help. If the ID tag is on it, you should be able to read it in place, sometimes a flashlight, mirror, or close up pictures help.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
Page 22 of the parts book shows you both styles of exhaust systems so you can see the parts you need to buy or make, to change it to a vertical exhaust. You do not have to change the manifold, vertical exhaust uses the square front port.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
You posted you are using Modern View. Go back to Page 1 of this post, about half way down I posted the link and a couple pictures as a guide to using it.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
My thoughts are it is considered best for the engine, and your hearing, to have a muffler, others may disagree. Some areas require mufflers and/or spark arrestors on exhaust systems to reduce chances of causing fires. In the end the final decision on putting one on, or not, is yours.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
You need to get pricing and the parts through a Massey Ferguson dealer. There is an on line locator for Massey dealers, if you don't know who is a dealer in your area. Some AGCO dealers can get MF parts as well, I believe. And you can try on line searches using the MF part numbers.
MF dealer locator: https://www.masseyferguson.us/find-a-dealer.html
last question, i have the Perkins AG3.152 3 cylinder gasoline motor, question is, how much of what weight motor oil do you recommend, i am replacing the old oil filter with the one that excepts the replaceable cans, and will be replacing the oil pan gasket, drain plug and plug gasket, and oil.
Jim.ME
Well-known Member
- Location
- central ME
To be clear, I think you mean you are replacing the stock oil filter, that has a replaceable element in a reusable housing (can), with a spin-on filter adapter kit so you can use a spin-on filter, similar to a filter most car use?
You don't say where you are located. I use 15W/40 diesel oil year round. The 135 with the AG3.152 holds 6 quarts without filter change and 6.5 quarts with filter change. I would put 5 quarts in and check the dipstick, then fill to the full mark, run it a few minutes, shut it down, let it set a few minutes, and check it again. Changing the filter set up may change the quantity it takes. So have at least 7 quarts available when you start.
You really need to get yourself a 150 Operator's manual and a 150 service manual. Get Massey Ferguson manuals first, not I&T ones because you can get one cheaper. I&T ones fill in some things, but not best as primary manuals. JMHO
Thankyou for all of your help, I'm in MO so not crazy weather changes, I have heard to use that oil and the manual that i bought says the capacity, however i like hearing personal applications, I work on trucks all the time and this isn't that far from a vehicle except for the identification issue. i will grab a couple jugs of the 15W/40 and get her some new blood. Thankyou again for all of yalls help
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