Battery Cut-Off Swicth

wingnuttx

Well-known Member

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Sorry for the grainy pic but I have an update problem with my iPad. A question I'd better ask because I simply don't know. I have qty 3 of these switches
to install. One each for 59' JD 435, 73' David Brown 885, and 2017 Kubota L3200. Would all 3 switches be installed on the negative battery terminals? All 12v battery systems. Thank you all for your valuable information. Wingnut
 
Wingnuttx

Yes.... No ground no short. Could happen with cut off on the positive side,

Guido.
 
I always thought the hot lead was a good idea, but the ground is the one to switch. Maybe someone can explain why. Keep in mind not all vehicles or tractors are negative ground. I have a hard time with that also. I have a 52 Plymouth that is negative hot. Stan
 
It does not functionally matter which one you switch. From a safety perspective the switch is best to be at ground potential, so - on negative ground and + on positive.
 
37 chief,

The groud side is where the cutoff should be, positive or negative ground. With the switch cutting off the non grounded side, you can have a short to ground from the battery post to frame.

A metal battery cover is reason for that. It can happen..... No ground no short,


Guido.
 
I always put them on the negative don’t have anything that’s positive ground that’s running at the moment
 
I'm having a hard time following how that will work?

The clamp side will obviously be secured to the battery post, but what will secure the other side? Won't it be at the mercy of wherever the battery cable wants to go?
 
It will be, and the brackets on the ones I had were plastic too. I had to secure the cable so it wouldn't break it, that's why I put it on the ground cable.
 
I normally use the Key Type, but I also use the type with the
Knob you unscrew for certain applications.
Like that better than a knife switch.

Always installed on the Ground side regardless of POS. or NEG. ground.
Tom
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(quoted from post at 18:01:01 01/01/21)

After a few years either style of those chintzy disconnects shown here installed right at the battery will be corroded/have some battery acid creep up into them and pass a little current even when "disconnected" defeating what you are trying to do.

Installing a "real" USA-made panel-mounted battery disconnect switch away from the battery is a MUCH better plan, IMHO.
 
Steve.... Not sure I understand your post. In fact you'll most likely chuckle hearing my reply with a No %#%T Shurlock. I plan to place round clamp on switch to negative post of battery. Then attach negative battery cable to the Switch post. With knife open-no current (or little hopefully) With knife closed-current flow.
I received these as a Chistmas gift as I guess I was overheard that I needed to try to prolong battery life. I did in fact see the better switches on Amazack but never specified brand/type. My error. Although more expensive, I do understand how a switch mounted away from the battery would make for a cleaner job. Thanks to all for all of the input provided. Wingnut
 
(quoted from post at 20:13:25 01/01/21) I'm having a hard time following how that will work?

The clamp side will obviously be secured to the battery post, but what will secure the other side? Won't it be at the mercy of wherever the battery cable wants to go?


Steve, look carefully between the two ends of the knife blade.
 
Guido has it right. Negative post. I have these on all of my equipment. Easy to use, simple. The disconnects that screw on and off can be a bugger in the dark and don't always stay tight. Once you get use to using them it will become automatic when leaving the tractor
 
Wingnut, I just put one like that on my 51 VAC Case a few months ago.
I really like it.
My battery is mounted on a frame I built and bolted in front of the clutch pedal, so it is right there when I step up on the tractor.
I have a different one on my 8N that is on the dash.
It is a switch that turns.
Both on negative side as both are 12 volt.
Richard in NW SC
 
If your main goal is to prolong battery life, you need to get Battery Tenders. I have over 20 of them around here now and every tractor and vehicle that sits for more than a few days at a time gets plugged in to the Battery Tender. Guaranteed full battery when you need your equipment, and has made our batteries last at least twice as long. I have a couple of the 6v models as well for the older tractors.
Battery Tender
 
Logic would say the uninsulated ones would want to be on a ground side so it can't short out if something fell on or against them. Were as the hot side could. I've never used them on anything. Most of our stuff is run often enough they are not dead and any that are not run often enough and are seasonal have to share a battery like the seed truck and the backhoe. So it seems to work out.
 
I've accumulated several switches over the years. The only type I've ever actually used is the one with the green knob. That one has worked well for years.
The big red one is kinda interesting.....picked it up at a garage sale a few years ago. It is apparently really made for switching power for two engines. Power can be directed to either engine or to both simultaneously. It also has terminals for ignition. Anybody know what that might have been used for? I'm guessing a twin engine boat.

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In response to cat guys picture of a battery disconnect switch with batt. 1 and batt 2 positions. This is made for a fire engine.
Traditionally fire engines were built with redundant systems. 2 ignitions, 2 batteries, or a distributor with a magneto as backup.
Steve retired career lieut/firefighter.
 
(quoted from post at 16:23:29 01/02/21) I've accumulated several switches over the years. The only type I've ever actually used is the one with the green knob. That one has worked well for years.
The big red one is kinda interesting.....picked it up at a garage sale a few years ago. It is apparently really made for switching power for two engines. Power can be directed to either engine or to both simultaneously. It also has terminals for ignition. Anybody know what that might have been used for? I'm guessing a twin engine boat.

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The red one is normally found on boats and emergency vehicles
Or any application where you want to isolate two batteries.
You can run off one battery or the other or both.
Tom
 
(quoted from post at 18:04:24 01/02/21) In response to cat guys picture of a battery disconnect switch with batt. 1 and batt 2 positions. This is made for a fire engine.
Traditionally fire engines were built with redundant systems. 2 ignitions, 2 batteries, or a distributor with a magneto as backup.
Steve retired career lieut/firefighter.


2SteveWi, I am a 71 year old not yet retired firefighter, and in my 43 years on our small town well funded department during which I have always been involved in truck maintenance, none of the 18 trucks that we have had since I have been here have had redundant batteries, or ignitions. While most have been commercial trucks such as our '34 model A Ford, or '63 Mack tanker or 2018 Peterbilt tanker, We have also had Custom Pierces, E-1s, KMEs, built on Pemfab or Spartan Chassis just like the big cities have. Most of the trucks have had multiple batteries but in one circuit with one disconnect, with no option to switch between two separately wire batteries. How would separately wired and isolated batteries on a truck be charged?
 
The red one is normally found on boats and emergency vehicles
Or any application where you want to isolate two batteries.
You can run off one battery or the other or both.
Tom

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Well, I did a little Googling and found out it is used just as TGP says. That same unit is still being made and sold. I found it on a marine supply site. I think I incorrectly assumed the two small terminals are for ignition. Not sure what they are for. A feature of this switch is there is no break in power when switching from one battery to the other. Gee, I should be able to dream up some use for that neat switch. LOL
 

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