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Engine assembly lube

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
What’s everybody favorite or favorite concoction?
cvphoto69111.jpg
 
I have used that and STP. Like the STP better. Also a coffee can full of stp and oil to dunk pistons in and to prime hydraulic lifters. Yeah it's a little messier than lubriplate, but clings pretty well.
 
I was delighted when I found out about this stuff, or when it appeared, whichever it was. When I was into an engine back in the 70's, my main concern was the bearings. I hated getting everything all cleaned up, just to get oil dripping all over, from oiling up the bearings. I don't think I even knew about this until after I left the shop in the mid 80's! With this grease I was confident I could lube up the bearings really well, and it would stay there. Then I would crank an engine over before installing the spark plugs, or injectors, until I had oil pressure.
 
It's been a long time since I was into an engine. Just don't seem to have much trouble in that department. I just dip parts into new engine oil then install. Rings Bearings and so on.
 

This is what I usually use: Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube. Mostly because it is what my machine shop sells.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81950-Ultra-Engine-Assembly/dp/B000HBNVSK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&hvadid=78065451482226&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=ultra+slick&qid=1609244809&sr=8-2&tag=mh0b-20
 

I just did an engine I use Lubriplate in the oil pump and a few other places and a lube like you mentioned. The other lube was federal Mogul #55-400. A good bet it the same as the permatex.
 
I have built 100s of test engines using it and I know that its used in production engines also.
 
I always used the red stuff that comes with new cams shafts on the cam and lifters. A machine shop friend thought me how to mix 30 wt oil with a tin of grease to put on every thing else. Just add the oil until you get the consistency you like. I also dipped the piston and ring assembly in a coffee can of oil before I installed in the block. I started new engines with 20 wt oil. I did mostly small block Chevrolets so I had the stripped distributer to pre-lube, checked oil pressure while pre-lubing. An interesting thing I discovered was, the oil pressure when using a drill that ran at 550 RPM and 20 wt oil was the pressure at hot idle with 15W-40. It is important especially with flat tappet high performance cams for the motor to start and run immediately. I always static timed everything and made sure the carb had fuel (I learned to static time working with our JD A with a mag). After a short run in I changed the oil and filter, nothing cleans like hot oil and shop rag lint can plug a filter. Never lost one on start-up. I have seen a fair amount of camshafts ruined on start up, I was always the friend of friend who got called in to see why it won't run right. Nobody believes you of course until you remove the valve cover and check cam lift.
 
That is what I use. Less of a mess and stays put if you take a long time to get the project finished up. Also prime the oil system before firing it up too.
 
When I learned to rebuild the old MACK 237 and 300 engines, my co-worker (veteran MACK mechanic with many years under his belt) always put about a half a teaspoon of oil in the "bowl" in the top of the piston. His reasoning was the first few times it was under compression and fired up, it would lube the cylinder walls. Lubriplate 105 was my go to assembly lube, although I did hear of an engine manufacturer that would void any warranty issues if they found something like that in the oil filter/s after an engine failure. I only had two engine failures in 35 plus years of rebuilding and one was from a bad vibration dampener the boss didn't want to R&R. Crankshaft broke (300 MACK) and the other was a DT530 IH that broke the crank.
 
I agree with RESLLS-- STP-- Use on all moving parts, it lubes your parts and stays put.. it is
sticky.. Then light weight oil - get oil pressure- run to warm up- drain and change oil filter.. Put in a
good break-in oil..
 
I use that, and also have a small bottle of the Permatex red assembly lube. Both seem to work just fine.
 
When I was building racing engines, I just used a mixture of half STP and half #30 engine oil on bearings, and dipped pistons and rings into straight #30 oil before assembling.

Never had a problem.

In fact, in all the years I raced, we only had two engine failures during a race. One was a fancy double roller racing timing chain. We went back to a plain old Chevy chain and no more timing chain problems.

The other was an engine blew and we put enough of it back together to determine a connecting rod cap bolt had broken. After that, we never torqued rod cap bolts more than twice. We'd install new bolts, reuse them once, and pitch them.
 
The shop I worked in didn't do a lot of complete engine builds but when we did the boss always used STP on everything, primed the oil pump
and then fired them up.
 
I have always used Permatex products, engine bearing lube, assembly lube and cam lube. Has worked well for me it seems as I have never had a failure yet. ( 40 years ) I think they may have discontinued or consolidated the engine bearing lube but I still have some from the old days.
 
STP on the bearings, any clean motor oil on the rings/pistons, Copper Coat spray on the head gasket and 3M black adhesive on other gaskets. gm
 

When I was a Warehouse distributor for Clevite we sold and used their

bearing guard and their cam lube , great products.

george
 
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