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Massey Ferguson 240 hard starting issues

V

VinceMF240

Member
Needing some help with my tractor, I inherited a MF240 from a relative. Its set up for years Ive replaced fuel filters and pumped all the old diesel out and put fresh diesel in it along with some hot shot. Once the tractor is started it runs fine but getting it to start in the cold has proven to be a headache and Ive had to use starting fluid a few times. The tractor only has 312 hrs on it and once I first start turning it over theres no smoke coming out of the exhaust so this leads me to believe its a fuel issue.

Where do I need to start to fix this problem? Ive already spent $1500 on hydraulic lines, alternator, fluids and filters, battery, gauges etc. Its turned into a mild restore but the warming months are coming and I need to get the hard starting issue fixed and Im trying not to waste money on things that wont fix my issue. Thank you in advance
 
Does it help it start easier if you bleed the system before
trying to start it or at least pump the manual pump a few
Times
 
Loosen the bleed screws on the filters and pump it and see if
you get fuel there lf it will start better . Hot shots is pretty dang
good stuff
 

You will have to explain to me how to bleed the system. And no I havent had much luck with priming the manual lift pump while trying to start it Ive tried this several times.

To my knowledge a gravity feed line goes to the lift pump then fuel filters, injection pump, to injectors and then return back to the tank correct?
 
(quoted from post at 03:04:27 12/22/20) Loosen the bleed screws on the filters and pump it and see if
you get fuel there lf it will start better . Hot shots is pretty dang
good stuff
Click to expand...

If I do this and it starts better does this mean my lift pump is bad?
 
I'm confused!! You said you replaced fluid and filters, did you replace the fuel filters? Did you clean the sediment bowl on the bottom of the fuel tank? If there is air in the fuel system, it will not start, period!! If you changed the fuel filters, there is a bleed screw on top of the filters and one or more on the injection pump and you may have to loosen the injector lines and get the air out of them for it to start and run. If you have a loose connection in the fuel line and air can get in, you will have to bleed the system each time you attempt to start it. Does it have a coolant heater on it? If it's cold out, plug the heater in for an hour or so before trying to start it. If it has a preheater in the air intake, DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID AND THE PREHEATER AT THE SAME TIME!!!!! If I remember, I'll take pictures of bleed screw on my tractor and post for you. Chris
 
(quoted from post at 03:56:01 12/22/20) I'm confused!! You said you replaced fluid and filters, did you replace the fuel filters? Did you clean the sediment bowl on the bottom of the fuel tank? If there is air in the fuel system, it will not start, period!! If you changed the fuel filters, there is a bleed screw on top of the filters and one or more on the injection pump and you may have to loosen the injector lines and get the air out of them for it to start and run. If you have a loose connection in the fuel line and air can get in, you will have to bleed the system each time you attempt to start it. Does it have a coolant heater on it? If it's cold out, plug the heater in for an hour or so before trying to start it. If it has a preheater in the air intake, DO NOT USE STARTING FLUID AND THE PREHEATER AT THE SAME TIME!!!!! If I remember, I'll take pictures of bleed screw on my tractor and post for you. Chris
Click to expand...

Yes I have replaced both fuel filters and the glass bowl. I have not cleaned the bowl you are talking about on the bottom of the tank Im not real sure I even know what your talking about. Im not using starting fluid anymore Ive heard from more than one person its bad for diesels so if it wont start it just wont start Im not going to force it anymore with starting fluid. To my knowledge there is no block heater or anything on the tractor.
 
Are you using the preheater when it's cold? Do you have an engine block heater on it. Not using the
preheater can cause it to be hard starting in cold weather. Where are you located? I don't know what
lines you have replaced or why, but we all can tell you this simple thing before you throw a lot of
needless money into a tractor-be sure what the problem is before you start replacing parts, it can get
really expensive fast. Tell us how cold is it and what lines you replaced, fuel or remote hydraulic.
These guys on here will do their best to help you but they need a little more to help. Getting it to
start better will probably have nothing to do with how the hydraulics operate, it might simply be low
on hydraulic fluid, do you know where to check it at? None of us know your level of experience.
 
(quoted from post at 04:08:22 12/22/20) Are you using the preheater when it's cold? Do you have an engine block heater on it. Not using the
preheater can cause it to be hard starting in cold weather. Where are you located? I don't know what
lines you have replaced or why, but we all can tell you this simple thing before you throw a lot of
needless money into a tractor-be sure what the problem is before you start replacing parts, it can get
really expensive fast. Tell us how cold is it and what lines you replaced, fuel or remote hydraulic.
These guys on here will do their best to help you but they need a little more to help. Getting it to
start better will probably have nothing to do with how the hydraulics operate, it might simply be low
on hydraulic fluid, do you know where to check it at? None of us know your level of experience.
Click to expand...

Im turning the key to the on position before trying to start but the preheater light isnt even coming on so if it has one Im not even sure if its working. No block heater, and its been 30-40 degrees Im in Mississippi so not a super cold climate.

Ive replaced hydraulic lines I know that has nothing to do with my issue I was just stating little odds and ends Ive done. Nothing on the fuel system has been replaced other than filters and fuel.
 
I'm wondering if the injection pump has sticking internal parts from setting, that can cause no smoke at exhaust when trying to start. Lots of pumps I repair/calibrate
lately come in with stuck metering valve and/or rotor plungers from setting. The MF tractors I'm familiar with that have a Thermostart, turning key right engages starter
only. Turning key left to first position turns Thermostart to HEAT position, and needs held there 14-15 seconds, then turn key further left to HEAT-START to draw warm air
in and start engine. Also, what brand fuel filter did you use? If NAPA/WIX brand MAKE SURE there's NO extra O ring in filter TOP OUTER groove, that's the fuel inlet
passage and MUST NOT be blocked.
cvphoto68074.jpg
 
Lift pumps usually have a strainer under the top cover. They can become
clogged from fuel out of the tank. You can remove and clean them. Also
check to see if the inline shutoff valve from the fuel tank to the lift pump
is opened fully. I forgot once to turn the fuel on many years ago after
cleaning the lift pump strainer. My tractor did not run long after I fired
it up!
 
(quoted from post at 07:40:50 12/22/20)
(quoted from post at 04:08:22 12/22/20) Are you using the preheater when it's cold? Do you have an engine block heater on it. Not using the
preheater can cause it to be hard starting in cold weather. Where are you located? I don't know what
lines you have replaced or why, but we all can tell you this simple thing before you throw a lot of
needless money into a tractor-be sure what the problem is before you start replacing parts, it can get
really expensive fast. Tell us how cold is it and what lines you replaced, fuel or remote hydraulic.
These guys on here will do their best to help you but they need a little more to help. Getting it to
start better will probably have nothing to do with how the hydraulics operate, it might simply be low
on hydraulic fluid, do you know where to check it at? None of us know your level of experience.
Click to expand...

Im turning the key to the on position before trying to start but the preheater light isnt even coming on so if it has one Im not even sure if its working. No block heater, and its been 30-40 degrees Im in Mississippi so not a super cold climate.

Ive replaced hydraulic lines I know that has nothing to do with my issue I was just stating little odds and ends Ive done. Nothing on the fuel system has been replaced other than filters and fuel.
Click to expand...

You say you are turning the key to the on position before trying to start. Please clarify if you are turning it to the run position (aka Run) or the specific heat position. For a thermostart, or glow plugs, on a tractor like yours there is generally a specific spring loaded position on the switch to activate them. It may be to the left or between Run and start, depending on the switch. They are not like current vehicle diesels where you turn the key on and wait to start as the glow plugs automatically cycle. If you don't have an operator's manual for your tractor you might consider investing in one.
 
(quoted from post at 05:47:03 12/22/20) I'm wondering if the injection pump has sticking internal parts from setting, that can cause no smoke at exhaust when trying to start. Lots of pumps I repair/calibrate
lately come in with stuck metering valve and/or rotor plungers from setting. The MF tractors I'm familiar with that have a Thermostart, turning key right engages starter
only. Turning key left to first position turns Thermostart to HEAT position, and needs held there 14-15 seconds, then turn key further left to HEAT-START to draw warm air
in and start engine. Also, what brand fuel filter did you use? If NAPA/WIX brand MAKE SURE there's NO extra O ring in filter TOP OUTER groove, that's the fuel inlet
passage and MUST NOT be blocked.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto68074.jpg">
Click to expand...

I am using Napa fuel filters I know I put the gaskets in they supplied but Im not sure if I done it correctly. I watched several videos and just followed the steps. It did take FOREVER to prime the filters though.
 
Go easy on the starting fluid. At 30-40 degrees it should start without the Thermostart which I am not sure a 240 has. I would get it started and work it for a while. Is it turning over fast enough, they take a pretty good battery and good cables. Check voltage during cranking. My MF 65 with untold hours will start up at that temp just like summer time. Those filters are somewhat of a pain but if it runs ok after you get it started I doubt that's the issue.
 
(quoted from post at 06:16:19 12/22/20)
(quoted from post at 07:40:50 12/22/20)
(quoted from post at 04:08:22 12/22/20) Are you using the preheater when it's cold? Do you have an engine block heater on it. Not using the
preheater can cause it to be hard starting in cold weather. Where are you located? I don't know what
lines you have replaced or why, but we all can tell you this simple thing before you throw a lot of
needless money into a tractor-be sure what the problem is before you start replacing parts, it can get
really expensive fast. Tell us how cold is it and what lines you replaced, fuel or remote hydraulic.
These guys on here will do their best to help you but they need a little more to help. Getting it to
start better will probably have nothing to do with how the hydraulics operate, it might simply be low
on hydraulic fluid, do you know where to check it at? None of us know your level of experience.
Click to expand...

Im turning the key to the on position before trying to start but the preheater light isnt even coming on so if it has one Im not even sure if its working. No block heater, and its been 30-40 degrees Im in Mississippi so not a super cold climate.

Ive replaced hydraulic lines I know that has nothing to do with my issue I was just stating little odds and ends Ive done. Nothing on the fuel system has been replaced other than filters and fuel.
Click to expand...

You say you are turning the key to the on position before trying to start. Please clarify if you are turning it to the run position (aka Run) or the specific heat position. For a thermostart, or glow plugs, on a tractor like yours there is generally a specific spring loaded position on the switch to activate them. It may be to the left or between Run and start, depending on the switch. They are not like current vehicle diesels where you turn the key on and wait to start as the glow plugs automatically cycle. If you don't have an operator's manual for your tractor you might consider investing in one.
Click to expand...

My key will not turn counter clockwise. Im turning it clockwise and a light on the dash used to come on when I done this with a little fire emblem so I assume this is the heating element everyone is talking about. I dont think this tractor has glow plugs? When I turn the key to the on position the light no longer comes on all of the warning lights etc randomly stopped working but I will hold the key in that position for 30 seconds or so and try and start it and still no luck. Is there a way to tell if its actually working? Where can I get a new one if not?
 

I forget the cold cranking amps of the battery but its a Napa battery and a huge one. We looked up recommendations for battery size on the tractor and went one size lager. Ive even had a job box on it with the engine turning over like crazy and still nothing. And no worries Im not using starting fluid anymore Ive heard to many tell me dont do that.
 
I admit not being familiar with a 240. Does it have a fuel shutoff solenoid somewhere. My MF 65s have a manual fuel shutoff and I have had the rod jump out of the pump end and leave the pump in the shutoff position. The shutoff rod can be installed wrong and work backwards (don't ask how I know). You should get fuel if you crack a line. Sometimes my 65 will not start when its been run out of fuel until I crack an injection line. I know what kind of idiot runs a Perkins diesel out of fuel. I have spent a fortune fixing the fuel gauge to prevent that.
 
My MF-240-S has the thermostart. I hold the key over to the right for a full minute or more, just before the starter
stats. Which gets the themostart igniting. Or more, in cold weather. Don't hurry it. She'll usually start. I never
use ether.
 
With fuel shut off control in the on mode / run mode..
Throttle half open.....
Try as per pictures...
I loosen off each fuel line at the PUMP until no sign of air....
Also try turning the engine over a 1/4 turn with starter as you are bleeding system..
Three cylinder Perkins...
Bob..
cvphoto68113.jpg


cvphoto68114.jpg
 
You said it runs good once running. My guess is it is getting fuel then. I have a 1650 that will not
start without starting fluid at 50 degrees. I believe it is low on compression.
I will find out when I have time.
A little shot of starting fluid does not hurt. Been using it for years.
My dad has a 10-15 year old kabota that will NOT start without the preheater ever.
If you have a preheat on the manifold check to see if it works. Use a wide from battery and hold
on for 10 seconds or remove and check. May make a huge difference.
Tractor that sat long may just need to got hot to polish up the cylinder and rings.
 
(quoted from post at 02:40:07 12/22/20) Needing some help with my tractor, I inherited a MF240 from a relative. Its set up for years Ive replaced fuel filters and pumped all the old diesel out and put fresh diesel in it along with some hot shot. Once the tractor is started it runs fine but getting it to start in the cold has proven to be a headache and Ive had to use starting fluid a few times. The tractor only has 312 hrs on it and once I first start turning it over theres no smoke coming out of the exhaust so this leads me to believe its a fuel issue.

Where do I need to start to fix this problem? Ive already spent $1500 on hydraulic lines, alternator, fluids and filters, battery, gauges etc. Its turned into a mild restore but the warming months are coming and I need to get the hard starting issue fixed and Im trying not to waste money on things that wont fix my issue. Thank you in advance
Click to expand...

How cold is cold? I started the 240 up the other day 34F and it had sat for 3 weeks, no block heater and it started like I had just shut it off 5 mins before.

I've had it fire right up 15F after sitting for 4 weeks, it does have the thermostart.
 
The 3.152 Perkins diesel is one of the easiest cold start diesel engines there is, at 30 degree's with a wind chill just above 0 degree's mine will still start right up like it would if it was 80 degree's. Is it hard to start once it's warmed up???
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:04 12/22/20) The 3.152 Perkins diesel is one of the easiest cold start diesel engines there is, at 30 degree's with a wind chill just above 0 degree's mine will still start right up like it would if it was 80 degree's. Is it hard to start once it's warmed up???
Click to expand...

No once its warmed up you can let it sit for an hour and itll still fire right up.
 
Went through something simular with our New Holland 6640, turns out a thread in the fuel filter housing was stripped thus letting air in the system when it sat for a few hours. Before finding the stripped housing sometimes it would bleed faily easy then start, or it was a real bear to bleed to get it started. I would go over every fitting to make sure everythings good, and it doesn't take very much of a leak (it didn't leak fuel, but appearantly it let air in when it sat a few hours) I didn't think I was ever going to figure it out.
 
Tractor update, after it sat for 4 days in the cold I tried cranking this morning and it fired right up didnt even seem like it tuned over more than one time before it fired up. I completely flushed the fuel system and got the old diesel out and added hot shot. Ran the tractor pretty hard today and it seems to be running extremely well.
 
Good to here after changing filters it’s good to run it for awhile
so it gets all the air out of the system
 
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