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Adjusting Swartz wide front

S

smileykeith

Member
Have a swartz wide frt on 630 JD it had a loader on it so was set wide I want to narrow it up about 8 inches took out all the bolt but it don't want to move any ideas would be appreciated Thanks in advance
 
All of those tend to get dog-knotted, Lots of heat and tapping and it should eventually free up.
 
You will get many answers, they all involve brute force. Here is mine. Put the side you are working on up on cribbing so the small end of the axle is sticking out in the air. Put a smaller bolt in one of the pinch bolt holes. Spray every hole, split, and interface between big and small with penetrating juice (not WD-40) use a cable type come-along to go from the lowest end of the front spindle, to the rear axle, or with a chain around the rear tire. this puts rotational stress on the pipes without pulling on the tractor. now pound on it like it was a hated beast.
The smaller bolt keeps it from getting away from your control. Jim
 
There is probably 3 feet of rust and dust in the seam between the two pipe overlapped. It got there over many years.

It will take some brute force, some real penetrating oil, and some vibration to break that loose. Some might add heat.

Remember, when it finally gives it will rotate and drop to the ground, so be carful. Safety first. Proper support and all!

Take out the bolts, spray every seam and opening and bolt hole with penetrating oil. Whacking it with a rubber hammer, real hammer if you don’t mind the scuffing, or rattling with a air hammer flat to break up rust, vibrate the penetrating oil in the cracks will help.

Some put a size smaller bolt (or the original size but loose) and go drive it a few weeks, see I’d the regular stress of driving will jar it loose. Again, be careful with such ideas, when it does come apart.

Anything you can do to get some oil to work in and create some cracks to form in the rust layer that is in there. Time is a big part of this process, and repeating the oil and vibrating.

Paul
 
Rust is as strong as a weld , usually lots of high heat and a big hammer. I have seen one guy spit the tube with a cutting torch to get it loose then reweld it and paint it never would know it was cut.
 
I also was going to say any panther pee is a waste of the stuff. It simply does not get to where u want it.
 
had a Massey that was stuck had to split the outer tube and a lot of heat BIG weed burner torch pull ends out and welded the tube back up used 4 1/2 grinder with cut off wheels took 3 per side cut just the outer tube then i used a ton of anti-seize
 
Start soaking it now and by spring it it will move easier. I had some taper lock hubs on my 3020 I wanted to move so that fall I started spraying each hub with penetrating oil every time I walked by it I probably used 8 cans from fall until spring . In the spring the Hubs came free and the oil had soaked clear to the axles
 
I tried to get the axle ends to move on our 1466. I had a telehandler pulling with the axle chained to a semi trailer and then heated it several times and left it set for a few days then would heat again. Oiled sprayed all kinds of stuff on/in it and never did get them loose. It has been 5or 10 years now with just the pinch bolt and no pin through the axle. Still has not moved working ground. Not even over chisel plowed ground. We pull a 25 foot field cultivator in 4thlow or 1st high depending on the dirt. I fear the day that one side comes loose if it ever does.
 
My 1456 has one side with just a 5/8 bot drpped in the hole,the pinch clamp is completely removed. In 5 years,it has yet to move.
 
I have a 400 like that. Ended up splitting each side in as far as I could get a 4 1/2" grinder with cuttof disk.I think I burned up 4 disks.Still took a come a long to the rear axle and a big sledge hammer to get it to move.Cleaned the inside of the tube with a cylinder ball hone,and wirebrushed the knees. used a generouse amount of antisieze to reassemble.
 


It is not just the rust that is holding it in place it is the pressure of the built-up rust in between the tubes. You need to reduce the pressure chemically with acid. Phosphoric would be best. Rather than pay the long dollar for rust converter you can use milk stone remover from a dairy supply or limescale remover from a restaurant supply.
 
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